Super twitchy at speed
#1
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
Super twitchy at speed
Hi all,
Need help with the scoob!
It's super twitchy at speed/Accel
04 WRX wagon:
Tein flex Z lowered 25mm all round
22mm front ARB + drop links
24mm rear ARB + drop links
Done the bushes on front and rear control arms .
Car does not feel stable at all really sketchy at 70mph.
Checked my tyre pressure and they are all even 37.5 all-round.
Tyres are 215/45/r17 tread wear is even
Do the alignment figures look alright? / Any suggestions on what to do?
Cheers
Nick
Need help with the scoob!
It's super twitchy at speed/Accel
04 WRX wagon:
Tein flex Z lowered 25mm all round
22mm front ARB + drop links
24mm rear ARB + drop links
Done the bushes on front and rear control arms .
Car does not feel stable at all really sketchy at 70mph.
Checked my tyre pressure and they are all even 37.5 all-round.
Tyres are 215/45/r17 tread wear is even
Do the alignment figures look alright? / Any suggestions on what to do?
Cheers
Nick
#2
Scooby Regular
Factory tyre pressures F: 33 R: 32
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (10)
A little bit of toe in should be agile but straighten up a bit at speed, not sure starting with toe out like you have now would help? Looks like you could do with more negative camber also? Some suspension guru should be along soon to check it properly and have decent input.
Last edited by forgedmarco; 28 February 2023 at 05:43 PM.
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
Coilovers and big bars are not ideal on the road - you've lost suspension independence.
What are your wheel centre, vertically upto arch, measurements? - too low and you're constantly engaging the bump stops.
Start with 33psi front, 28psi rear tyre pressures.
How have you got the front camber plates positioned? A pic would do.
Are the rear top mounts adjustable or stock rubber?
Your alignment is in degrees, not the more usual degrees and minutes:
Zero front toe
Front camber negative 1° 45minutes (negative 1.75°), per side. Less if you're always on the motorway/A-roads and you want to reduce tyre wear.
Rear camber is not listed as adjustable. But you can minimise and equalise, using the play in the lower mounting holes: negative 1° 30minutes (negative 1.50°), per side, would be nice.
Rear toe: Positive 0°03 to 0°04minutes (positive 0.05° to 0.065°) toe-in, per side. Most of the straight-line stability comes from here, on the strut rears.
What are your wheel centre, vertically upto arch, measurements? - too low and you're constantly engaging the bump stops.
Start with 33psi front, 28psi rear tyre pressures.
How have you got the front camber plates positioned? A pic would do.
Are the rear top mounts adjustable or stock rubber?
Your alignment is in degrees, not the more usual degrees and minutes:
Zero front toe
Front camber negative 1° 45minutes (negative 1.75°), per side. Less if you're always on the motorway/A-roads and you want to reduce tyre wear.
Rear camber is not listed as adjustable. But you can minimise and equalise, using the play in the lower mounting holes: negative 1° 30minutes (negative 1.50°), per side, would be nice.
Rear toe: Positive 0°03 to 0°04minutes (positive 0.05° to 0.065°) toe-in, per side. Most of the straight-line stability comes from here, on the strut rears.
Last edited by 2pot; 01 March 2023 at 12:47 PM.
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#9
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
#10
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
Coilovers and big bars are not ideal on the road - you've lost suspension independence.
What are your wheel centre, vertically upto arch, measurements? - too low and you're constantly engaging the bump stops.
Start with 33psi front, 28psi rear tyre pressures.
How have you got the front camber plates positioned? A pic would do.
Are the rear top mounts adjustable or stock rubber?
Your alignment is in degrees, not the more usual degrees and minutes:
Zero front toe
Front camber negative 1° 45minutes (negative 1.75°), per side. Less if you're always on the motorway/A-roads and you want to reduce tyre wear.
Rear camber is not listed as adjustable. But you can minimise and equalise, using the play in the lower mounting holes: negative 1° 30minutes (negative 1.50°), per side, would be nice.
Rear toe: Positive 0°03 to 0°04minutes (positive 0.05° to 0.065°) toe-in, per side. Most of the straight-line stability comes from here, on the strut rears.
What are your wheel centre, vertically upto arch, measurements? - too low and you're constantly engaging the bump stops.
Start with 33psi front, 28psi rear tyre pressures.
How have you got the front camber plates positioned? A pic would do.
Are the rear top mounts adjustable or stock rubber?
Your alignment is in degrees, not the more usual degrees and minutes:
Zero front toe
Front camber negative 1° 45minutes (negative 1.75°), per side. Less if you're always on the motorway/A-roads and you want to reduce tyre wear.
Rear camber is not listed as adjustable. But you can minimise and equalise, using the play in the lower mounting holes: negative 1° 30minutes (negative 1.50°), per side, would be nice.
Rear toe: Positive 0°03 to 0°04minutes (positive 0.05° to 0.065°) toe-in, per side. Most of the straight-line stability comes from here, on the strut rears.
Away from car currently but I'll get photos of top mounts they are adjustable.
I've got rear camber bolts but nothing more than that 👍
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