ST-X

So I'm currently rebuilding the front end of my WRX with refreshed driveshafts/LCA's/brakes/strut bodies etc (all I wanted was a quick rack, things escalated).

Anyway, I've been discovering significant electrolytic corrosion on the aluminium parts thanks to Scottish winters and lots of road salt. The bells and brackets on the AP's are toast so I'm in touch with Godspeed about getting some new ones made up. That's one thing, but the LCA's are also beginning to show signs of corrosion around the balljoint nut interface and the ARB brackets. Are these things anodised from the factory, or bare aluminium?

One thing I've got planned is to get AS Performance to do the S202-esque castor increase mods to ditch the 4th failing set of Whiteline Com-C's, but given the rather significant overspend at this point that is going to be a bit later on in the year. I can get the arms anodised for £30 now which will help reduce the risk of further corrosion, but then it seems wasteful doing this if I then get the arms modified and then leave open areas (it would also be a waste of a set of Superpro 2 piece bushes as a temporary bush). It would make sense to do it all in one. But is the clear anodising done from the factory ? I'm wondering if just cleaning, and greasing everything well will be sufficient for 6 months until I get a chance to do the arm mod and get the anodising done at that time.

Cheers!

Croney

I don't know about factory anodising, but I do know any polished alloy will corode faster than if left rough , personally I would do it all in 1 hit, save cost and time, Do it right once.
You could paint the areas exposed when modifying is done if you anodised first, but realy why waste cash and time, clean coat with grease and wait 6 months

ST-X

Thanks @Croney , that's certainly the direction I'm leaning in. My concern with this route is that if it ends up being next year that I finally get around to doing it then the corrosion may have become worse. My suspicion that they're anodised is that the untouched pieces aren't suffering in the same way (i.e there's pitting around the NSF balljoint but not the OSF etc), which leads me to suspect that when things have been worked on the anodising has become damaged/removed. I suspect the best way to do it is to get AS to do the work but before they press the bushes in have them get the arms shot peened and anodised for me. Given the car is a long term keeper and sits in an un climate controlled garage (i.e damp!) everything I can do to mitigate corrosion and damage is going to be beneficial. Marine grease is already my good friend on this one...