So i'm used to and know all the mods to make a classic handle better, but just want to know what the best mods are on a newage for fast road set up.

It's not actually bad as the previous owner had the geo done and i think it has stiffer springs as it's quite flat in the turns and feels firmer than my old blob, but i still haven't pushed it too hard as i'm just getting to know the car.

Just want peoples experience of what really works, so as not to be throwing money in the wrong direction, i have solid rear drop links waiting to go on but looking to get my shopping list together before i put it all on and go for a geo.

Brakes are sorted, AP 4 pots on the front.

Car is blob WRX PPP Wagon.

 

I have just fitted pu/caster front control arm bushings to my bug STi wagon - quite amazed at the difference. More direct feel, increase in steering 'weight' and especially an increase in inside (as well as keeping front dynamic camber mid bend) wheel grip mid corner. Very recommended

(Front alloy arms, std strut/springs, F22 arb on firm, R24 on middle, rear subframe lock bolts, STi pink lateral & trailing arms)

 

I did the anti lift kit, castor correction strut top mounts and power steering bushes from whiteline.

Made a trully massive difference to the steering: it's still a bit to light and vague around the middle, but it's far easier to place the car and there's much less torque steer / "lift-off steer" (!) than there used to be.

I also fitted a 24mm rear ARB on it's stiffest setting. It really did remove ALL of the understeer and gave a little more cohesion to the handling (i.e. when you steer, the whole car reacts as one). In very tight turns I can feel an inside rear wheel lifting, like my old Clio Trophy!

However, I've since swapped up to a 2006 Spec C with the Type 20 handling kit and it really is a totally totally different car. The Spec C is very agile - nervous even, where the STI was completely planted and stable, if slightly numb.

If I could do it all again, I would leave EVERYTHING alone and first change up to a 13:1 steering rack. These cost 1800 quid brand new from RCM, but you can probably find one from a breakers if you search around a bit.

 

A geometry check/adjust would be my suggestion, along with the uprated ARBs and droplinks.

 

Rear arb and droplinks made a big difference for me.

 

Interesting combo. Were you running a std front arb? 24 on full firm sounds alot without any more up front. Did the car oversteer at all?

You say your Type 20 is nervous, does this mean you haven't confidence in the handling?

 

So pretty much the same as a classic then.

Which is the best quality ARB as i was really not impressed by the durability of my whiteline one, rusted to all buggery due to poor quality finish,and it spent most of its life in the garage.

1.Anti lift kit.
2.Rear Anti roll bar & drop links.
3.Front Anti roll bar.

Are the front drop links worth doing?

Where do the steering rack bushes go? I don't fancy shelling out £1800 for a rack

Feel free to add to my list.

 

When was the WL made? They have made progress on the powdercoating durability. Unfortunately Whiteline are not the company they once were. They have farmed everything out to Asia now and the original owners have sold...

Do you have the steel arms on your wagon?

The rack bushings are something different to changing out the whole rack to a Spec C one...

ALK can be a worthwhile addition, but in most cases debatable. Depends on how much power you have, if you have any lowering etc

 

I've done coilovers, front and rear ARB's (22F, 24R), and droplinks on my Newage.

Best advice for good handling.... sell it and buy a Classic.

Going to do a ALK soon, and stick my R888's on, see if that makes it better.

 

Gary my newage easy out handles my old RA.... And that had every white line part

 

Coilovers were prolly your mistake

 

They are coming off soon. (were on the car when i bought it).

Going for standard shocks with Tein S Tech springs.

Anger - the Newage just feels too heavy.

 

OMG Moley! DON'T go S-Techs for God's sake, they are a handling killer. Stay way at all costs

 

Lol you need more power

Eibach.

 

Heavy = Planted.

Just needs 340 + bhp and a brake upgrade, IMHO !

dunx

P.S. 22mm rear bar on stiffest setting on my bug saloon, it's plenty for me, although I would like to try a 24mm bar just to play with...

 

I had S Tech's on my Classic for a bit, thought they were pretty good. Certainly firm though.

339bhp with AP 6 pots at the moment, but should have more BHP later this month

 

Right mate ....
I really raye my own set up so her it is
Perrin prsr system Ie anti lift kit
Perrin f/r droplinks
Perrin r 24 mm on middle hole arb
Perrin f 22mm arb
Etc etc
I've nowgot bc coilovers but just sold sti struts and springs for 100 quid
And it handles very tight , eith plenty of oversteer if you want it
But deffo no understeer .

 

S-Techs over lower, causing all manner of poor handling. The damper is compromised too as most of the travel has gone. Very close to the bump stops so heavy cornering on roads will crash against the bump stops, understeer... the list goes on. If it's classic, std struts and P1 Prodrive (Eibach's) is an excellent way to go

 

"Whiteline" flat-out springs
"Whiteline" 22mm front and 24mm rear anti-roll bars
"Whiteline" front and rear droplinks
"Whiteline" front pillowball top mounts
"Whiteline" anti-lift kit
"Whiteline" roll centre adjusting kit
"Whiteline" steering rack bushes, diff bushes and camber bolts
"Whiteline" strut braces.

For me, the most important parts were the anti-lift and roll-centre adjusting kits. Common mistake is to put lowered springs/coils on but that changes the cars centre of gravity. This ruins your handling.. The adjusters correct this.
All of this is pointless if your tyres are poor and pressures are way out too,,, IMHO.

 

i have this fitted to my sti.
handles so much better now, not cheap but worth the cash.
http://www.scoobyworld.co.uk/catalog...oducts_id=1578
i can admit it now i have declared the mods to insurance lol

 

Bc coil overs full super pro bushes and Whiteline drop links doesn't move

 

Mine is:
*BC coilovers
*Whiteline front 22mm adjustable ARB
*Whiteline rear 24mm adjustable ARB
*Front droplinks
*Rear droplinks
*Anti-lift kit
*Front strut brace
*Alignment setup
*Welded in rollcage - rear half
*r888s for road tyres

Its one hell of a setup + 380bhp and braking mods!!!

 

whats the grip like on the r888s in the winter months??

 

only time they are an issue is large amounts of standing water, wet roads are fine, dry roads are fantastic!! I found them fine in snow and ice as well, though I did not the car that much.

Once an overfueling issue is sorted, it will be going on the track

 

Our setup is:

HSD HR Coilovers
Eibach Front and rear ARB
Front CDF droplinks
Whiteline ALK(anti-lift kit)
Hardrace Adjustable Lateral links with rear ball jointed droplinks
Front and rear strutbrace
Front 4-point Underbrace
Road tyres Vredstein Ultrac Sessanta 245/40 ZR18 with Rota Grid Drift 9.5JX18 ET38
Track tyres Toyo R888 255/45 R17 with Drag DR31 9JX17"

On our wagon rear is raised about the 1 inch,due we have before issue with rubbing with Toyo R888.



Jura

 

Yes, standard arb at the front. It pretty much removed all the understeer and lift off oversteered like a 90's hot hatch.
Maybe not the fastest set up but it was good fun.

In the spec c everything is far more immediate, there seems to be less slack to all the controls. I haven't had a chance to drive it on decent dry roads yet. Ecause it's still pretty winters around here and I'm trying to stay away from the salt.

I think it will provide more confidence when really pushing on because there is better feedback. No question the Sti was more relaxed though.

 

Yeah, I owned a 370bhp 04 JDM and immense it was. I used to get back from its rare occasions out, park it away in the garage and be grateful I had survived