Type R rear suspension refresh, lateral links etc
#1
Type R rear suspension refresh, lateral links etc
I have removed my rear suspension, subframe and t-bar from my V5 Type R. I plan to powdercoat the subframe and so on.
I can't quite decide what I should do about the bushes and lateral links.
Option 1: Powdercoat my original links/arms and fit Group N bushes. My original suspension links are actually in quite good condition as the car only has seen winters during the first years in UK, but do still have some minor surface rust which I would like to get rid of. Are the group N bushes difficult to fit? Also some of the bushes seem to be no longer available but ICP seem to have them in stock.
I guess I could also fit Superpro bushes but some people say that poly bushes are not that great to use in the lateral links or trailing arms. I have no idea but don't want any problems with binding or constant re-greasing.
Option 2: Whiteline adjustable lateral links KTA108. Not too impressed with their paint quality. I had to powdercoat my anti-roll bar as it began to rust even though I barely even drove the car in rain. But that can be sorted later. They should also make wheel alignment easier, they are a bit lazy about doing proper alignments around here so that would be a bonus.
Option 3: Hardrace links/arms with the hardened rubber bushes. Not sure if the anti-roll bar mounts can cope with a Whiteline 24mm bar, the pink STI arms seem to have a problem with larger diameter anti-roll bars. Not too keen on the blue colour but I can live with that.
Which would you recommend. It's far easier to just fit new suspension arms and adding the cost of powdercoating my original arms, I'm not sure if it's even more expensive.
I would appreciate some advice, I need to get some parts ordered before Brexit leads to more expensive parts for me in Sweden
Thanks
I can't quite decide what I should do about the bushes and lateral links.
Option 1: Powdercoat my original links/arms and fit Group N bushes. My original suspension links are actually in quite good condition as the car only has seen winters during the first years in UK, but do still have some minor surface rust which I would like to get rid of. Are the group N bushes difficult to fit? Also some of the bushes seem to be no longer available but ICP seem to have them in stock.
I guess I could also fit Superpro bushes but some people say that poly bushes are not that great to use in the lateral links or trailing arms. I have no idea but don't want any problems with binding or constant re-greasing.
Option 2: Whiteline adjustable lateral links KTA108. Not too impressed with their paint quality. I had to powdercoat my anti-roll bar as it began to rust even though I barely even drove the car in rain. But that can be sorted later. They should also make wheel alignment easier, they are a bit lazy about doing proper alignments around here so that would be a bonus.
Option 3: Hardrace links/arms with the hardened rubber bushes. Not sure if the anti-roll bar mounts can cope with a Whiteline 24mm bar, the pink STI arms seem to have a problem with larger diameter anti-roll bars. Not too keen on the blue colour but I can live with that.
Which would you recommend. It's far easier to just fit new suspension arms and adding the cost of powdercoating my original arms, I'm not sure if it's even more expensive.
I would appreciate some advice, I need to get some parts ordered before Brexit leads to more expensive parts for me in Sweden
Thanks
Last edited by Turbovin; 08 December 2020 at 02:30 AM.
#2
Scooby Regular
Personally I would go with the Group N bushes if you don't need/want adjustable arms. I've had them fitted for a while now and they do make a difference, especially the trailing arm bushes. They can be a little difficult to fit but if you take your time you should be ok. The trailing arm bush in the knuckle is by far the worst. Make sure the surfaces are clean and smooth and use plenty of lubricant.
#3
Personally I would go with the Group N bushes if you don't need/want adjustable arms. I've had them fitted for a while now and they do make a difference, especially the trailing arm bushes. They can be a little difficult to fit but if you take your time you should be ok. The trailing arm bush in the knuckle is by far the worst. Make sure the surfaces are clean and smooth and use plenty of lubricant.
#4
Scooby Regular
Yes they're probably almost impossible to do properly with a press unless you remove the backing plates from the knuckle. You need to press the bush in too far then pull it back out again to seat the bush lip properly. There's a tool designed for this one bush install but it's pretty expensive (around £100 from ICP IIRC).
#5
That's great, I didn't know they had a tool for that. It's not too bad for a proper tool IMO, I would have to pay someone else to install it otherwise anyway.
https://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-i...y=&searchPart=
https://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-i...y=&searchPart=
#6
Scooby Regular
Good to someone else who has a tool obsession I too bought the correct tool although from Laser as it was cheaper at the time. I'd also recommend a bit of reducer pipe 51-38mm to help line up and pre-compress the bush as it's being pushed into the knuckle.
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#7
Scooby Regular
sending my type R off in jan to have a full bare metal rebuild on the underside , back to bare metal with the body , and all subframes and arms stripped and powder coated plus new bushes ,, all for £1500 as its a package at TAS motorsport ,,s aves me loads of work lol
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#8
Scooby Regular
You sure that's right? Sounds waaaaaaay too cheap
#10
Scooby Regular
#14
Scooby Regular
Any chance of a group buy lol. Like I have found out rust hides in so many places on the classic.
Get some pictures up
#17
That looks fantastic.
Another idea I had was to buy a new newage subframe (one with the solid mounts) instead of powder coating my original one. I know the exhaust hanger will be in the wrong place and that I need to have the newage rear diff bar. Some say the newage way of mounting the diff is stronger and also the height seem to be slightly different giving you better angles on the lateral links on a lowered car.
I'm not sure if my original T-bar would work then but I guess it would.
I think the picture shows a classic subframe though
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Another idea I had was to buy a new newage subframe (one with the solid mounts) instead of powder coating my original one. I know the exhaust hanger will be in the wrong place and that I need to have the newage rear diff bar. Some say the newage way of mounting the diff is stronger and also the height seem to be slightly different giving you better angles on the lateral links on a lowered car.
I'm not sure if my original T-bar would work then but I guess it would.
I think the picture shows a classic subframe though
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
#18
Scooby Regular
Question is do the newage ones rust too. If so why not sort your classic one out, that way you know its been done unless you can find out that has already had the work carried out on it.
#19
They most likely do but my original subframe isn't bad at all for it's age. I just thought that it perhaps could be an upgrade. But ICP told me that Subaru ship/store them without proper packaging so there will be marks and scratches on the new ones so would really need some paint anyway.
I'll powder coat the one I have, this will be expensive as it is.
I'll powder coat the one I have, this will be expensive as it is.
#20
Scooby Regular
They most likely do but my original subframe isn't bad at all for it's age. I just thought that it perhaps could be an upgrade. But ICP told me that Subaru ship/store them without proper packaging so there will be marks and scratches on the new ones so would really need some paint anyway.
I'll powder coat the one I have, this will be expensive as it is.
I'll powder coat the one I have, this will be expensive as it is.
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