drb5

iTrader: (4)

ok. the big part is i'm getting the red light on me knocklink and i'm wondering why? i did have a split in the turbo intake from induction pipe and i have now replaced that, but the thing was that i only got the red light before, on the knocklink, because i changed the atmospheric dv to a standard one. this is what highlighted a problem with the car. at that point i was told to replace the intake pipe, which i have done, yet still the red light is coming on i'm wondering if i should just fit the uprated fuel pump and regulator that i shall have soon hopefully and drive slowly till i get me noo LINK fitted at the end of february?????

drb5

iTrader: (4)

does anyone have a set of det cans they could have a wee go at me car with in fact? the knocklink is on it's most sensitive setting at the mo.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

come on...someone MUST know someone with det cans? as long as i can find out if it is genuinely BAD det then i can stat seriously worrying, not that i'm not just now, but....well you know

T-uk

yhm

drb5

iTrader: (4)

right back atcha

dougies549

Hi DRB5

Why don't you change the dump valvue back over and see if this uis the problem. It could have a leak and is letting more air out instead of holding it in.

Have you fitted the bigger turbo yet. It could have something to do with this ?

Cheers Dougie

drb5

iTrader: (4)

the old dv was an atmospheric and i got rid of it to settle idleing problems...which it has. everything was ok apart from the intake pipe after the turbo was fitted.



i think anyway

dougies549

Hi Dave

You could find that the turbo is pulling in more air than fuel being put in.

Have you got a AFR meter in the car?

What induction kit you running with now?

Cheers Dougie

drb5

iTrader: (4)

blitz sus power kit. the afr is showing green on hard acceleration, but i still reckon it's running lean. hopefully the pump and reg will help out a bit


cheers for the help tho m8

dougies549

Hi Dave

Are you sure it aint just engine noise now and again. I have had this as well.

If the Maf OK ?

Or have you just had a bad batch of fuel

Any way if nothing else it keep's it at the top for the so called expert's

Cheers Dougie

drb5

iTrader: (4)

going to john's on sunday to get him to have a wee look at the motor. hopefully the knocklink is just set too sensitive


oh and MAF was renewed a few months ago

[Edited by drb5 - 1/2/2004 9:58:36 PM]

dougies549

Hi Dave

Glad you are getting it looked at M8

Hope the Maf is ok and not gone again, what caused the failure in the first 1.

Cheers Dougie

drb5

iTrader: (4)

me being a silly ****** i think.

i had been on and off the throttle a lot waiting behind some slow *** ****, for a good passing place


you know how it is?

moses

drb5

only big boy here is me son lol i thought u wanted to know some sexual advice

drb5

iTrader: (4)

but your my bro in a former life moses, so we actually know the same ****

T-uk

blitz sus power kit

, MAF's don't like these,do an ecu reset and see how it idles.

I would still try and source a MY00 AE802 "green" ECU, richer and more retarded mean safer.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

idleing it is the best it's ever been m8. i know all about how the MAF's are cr4p on 99-00 models, but i seriously don't hink it's the problem....could be wrong though, but i DO doubt it

T-uk

it only really shows up with idling if its proper fcuked. the ECU may have just learned to keep a steady idle.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

like i said before, it was replaced a while ago and the idleing is as good as it has ever been, if not better. if it is the MAF though, i figure i'll not get another one and just wait till the end of feb, when the link is getting fitted



i'll say again though, i could be wrong

drb5

iTrader: (4)

there is one thing different though...if it makes sense??? since the 05 was fitted, i've noticed that the heater in the car isn't pumping out as hot an air as it used to? there's no air locks in the system as both pipes going into the cab heat up fine and the fan's are coming on when the thermostat heats up enough? thats the only thing off the top of me head at the mo. forgot all about that

john banks

If the MAF is OK and there are no other mechanical issues, then it is likely you are just detting because your ECU is running too much ignition advance for a TD05. The difference is probably enough to punch a hole in a piston.

Scoty

If your getting 1 - 1.1 bar, definately turn the dawes down to about 7 psi 0.5 bar? or something (something safe) until the car is ready and safe to be gunned i.e after a re-map.

What boost did Andy say to run it at for safety reasons until you got it re-mapped.
Memeber I said to ask him when you went to pick the turbo up!!
1.1 bar on a TD05 will be flowing a lot more air than a TD04 would at 1.1 bar
When I fitted my TD05/06 I was still running on 380cc injectors with a front mount and headers and no re-map.
I never once drove the car on boost, until I fitted a Dawes and even then it was only running 6 psi.

Just food for thought, but I would be looking at turning the dawes right down for a start.

T-uk

the other thing is, with a dawes, the boost will be holding far higher up, at the top-end too. so this with the TD05 will mean a far greater air flow than the map can cope with.

is the knocklink going daft at higher revs, say from 4700rpm onwards?

perhaps removing the dawes and running the 2port again with a restrictor to run sensible mid-range boost but drop the top end would be better. have you ever tightened the actuator?

drb5

iTrader: (4)

the main reason i'd like to know whats going on, is i don't what to travel all the way down to swindon then find out that there is an underlying problem which could have been sorted before i went down. u see what i'm saying? just wanna know for sure


i'll turn the boost down if t-uk reckons there is det. just hope it can be sorted with a remap

T-uk

does the water temp gauge in the car sit higher?

it takes a lot for these to rise but I have seen one far higher that it should have been, after a turbo swap. this was down to replacing a new copper washer on the banjo bolt, while keeping an old one on the other side. once I replaced both for new the gauge sat at normal.

along similar lines if you had crushed the water pipes onto the bell housing you may have slown flow down a bit but I suspect like above example the gauge would indicate this to an extent.

T-uk

if the knocklink is at max sensitivity and spiking to red. I think it is fairly safe to say it is detting it's bawsack off

I am surprised you have not dropped the boost already.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

hmmmmmm. i was also thinking that the induction kit has started to make a different noise on liftoff of the accelerator? only does this since the removal of the atmospheric dv too? the car has always had that dv on it since i got it so didn't know whether or not the ind kit should make this noise or not?


i wouldn't say the knocklink was going daft...it went up to red in a quick flash and that was it. wouldn't say it was flashing all over the place anyway.
as for the actuator, alan checked it out for me before i got the td05 on and said it was working fine...don't know if thats what u mean or not?
and the dawes being removed? i think i had to fit the dawes because the restrictor was sending the boost up to about 17 psi which andy told me not to have it at. he said run standard boost till a remap.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

on the inside of the car, the temp is reading fine.

i thought by turning the sensitivity down u would see less movement on the knocklink? it only went up to red once before i fitted the new intake pipe and only once just there. didn't want to push it any harder u know?

Scoty

Moving the restrictor about the pipe will change the boost, if you move it away from the T peice the boost should come down.

Possible reason for induction kit noise change is is running more boost on a different turbo?

john banks

It is going to sound like thunderclaps through the det cans and T-uk will $h** himself.

I can temporarily retard the ignition by 5 degrees until the next battery disconnection or ECU reset which may make it a bit safer, but it sounds to me like you are just running the boost far too high for an unmapped ECU.