drb5

iTrader: (4)

but remember scoty, that is only started making the noise after fitting the 05 and before replacing the dv with a standard unit

drb5

iTrader: (4)

i had the battery disconected for nearly 2 full days while i got the gaskets off you though john?

i'm really looking at turning the boost down to where untill i get the remap then?

john banks

A simple direct connection from compressor outlet to wastegate nipple would make it run about what Scoty is saying which is a very sensible level before mapping.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

u mean, just having one pipe with no cuts and no restrictor in it, straight from the i/c side to the actuator? or am i getting confused

Scoty

yes a bit of boost pipe from the i/c side to the actuator and it will run half a bar of boost, and if you get det then you could have cause for concern.

not sure I follow mate, if I stuck a td04 on my car just now it would make a different sound to what the td05/06 does through the induction kit for sure, no dump valve fitted

drb5

iTrader: (4)

why do you's think it's gonna be really badly detting? the knocklink is it MAX sensetivity and i only got one red flash? i thought turning the sensetivity down would show less det? or am i just getting confused again

drb5

iTrader: (4)

aye, but the 05 was on and it wasn't making this mad whistleing noise. only when the dv was swapped did it start this noise

Scoty

Nup dont follow at all mate, can you explain a bit more?

T-uk

even greens on a knocklink can be det through the cans.

it is spikes on the knocklink that are important not the colours. greens seem to be accepted but a spike to second green is still det, smooth activity through the lights can just be engine noise.

IMO you have two options here.

leave the knocklink on max sensitivity and avoid det.

or

adjust the knocklink so it does not show the det, drive hard and call me when your engine lets go. I happen to have a spare MY99/00 long block here with only 32k on it.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

scoty
when i fitted the 05, the whistleing wasn't happening, but a week/week and a half later when the dv was swopped to a standard dv...then it started making this mad whistleing.


t-uk
i don't want to have a blown engine m8 and i'm not dissing any advice given here, i just want to make sure the car doesn't have something wrong, thats it's causing the det. like it's got a burst hose somewhere or something. if it is down to the ignition advance or something similar, fine, cause that can get sorted when the link is fitted, but if there is another problem somewhere not ecu related then i would like to know. that's all...no?

T-uk

dave,

I honestly think it is a waste of time you coming through.your knocklink is telling you the car is detting. IMO these things work very well with the subaru block,just watch for spikes.

I would remove the dawes, re-plumb the 2port in and drill out the restrictor to drop the boost to about 12psi and try it,slacken the actuator a turn or two to drop the top end if needed. it will spool slower than the dawes and drop more at the top. your boost is far too high at 1.1bar IMO.

I would also swap your MY99 ECU for a MY00 ECU. you will not only get a safer ECU but it will make you about £75 too.

there is no problem if you want the det confirmed and I will let you listen so you know what to watch for in future.

I do not know if others are finding this at the moment but I think there is alot of p1sh poor optimax about just now. no two tanks seem the same. I had a couple degrees removed from my map a few weeks ago, due to increased knocklink activity and got some more fuel today and the knocklink is unhappy again.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

it's ok then john, i'll not bother coming through then, but what size drill do i use on the restrictor?

john banks

Rather than faff about with restrictors the pipe from the compressor outlet to the turbo is best - no restrictors in it, very smooth 8 PSI or so boost. Just replace the Dawes you have in it with a bit of pipe. Or even easier loosen the Dawes right off so it runs under 10 PSI.

You can spot even a small manifold leak by listening and feeling, and checking the idle vacuum. Idle vac should be about -9 PSI, a little bit more on lifting off.

If all this is fine & dandy and you still have a problem post up.

T-uk

sqeeze the restrictor out the pipe and increase the hole size to drop the boost.

please do nor take my posts the wrong way , I am more than happy to confirm the det but think the main issue is the boost level at the moment.

T-uk

jb's probably right, no point playing with restricors when your getting a remap anyway.

just watch for boost creep at the top as it could still go higher than wanted.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

ok, cheers

T-uk

have you tried it yet?

Bob Rawle

Just read this, the problem is "classic".

TD05 moves significantly more air than a TD04 boost for boost, you also increased the boost artificially so even it wanted to the ecu can do nothing about this problem.

This means that your fueling is leaner (too lean maybe)and det results, reducing timing etc is one thing but you do, as suggested, need to get the boost back to at least standard, ideally lower.

So remove the Dawes and revert to std pipework or adjust it down to about 0.8 bar. That should get you back in the ball park fueling wise. Or increase fuel pressure to restore fueling toi normal levels.

The noise from the dump valve is also "normal" for an aftermarket recirc depending on what spring strength in it. If its a Forge you can dismantle and adjust, a red spring is best.

If the ecu was controling boost it would probably be in limp home mode by now ... however its not able to react for as long as you use the Dawes ... one of the downsides to the device.

cheers

bob

drb5

iTrader: (4)

thanks bob, see you in february

what i done was turn the dawes down as far as it can go....wel, nearly. i shall be turning it down even further tho, as it's still boosting too much, up to 1 bar. i'm not getting any flickering at all on the knocklink so i guess it's getting better, which is ok, but what else does it mean? is it definately to do with the fuelling and pressure of it, or is it ignition advance or something?

oh and the forge recirc valve has a red spring in place, but i don't think that's where the noise comes from.

Scoty

Take the dawes off completely and run a bit of pipe between the two turbo nipples for a safe 0.5 bar of boost.

If it still boosts to a bar after 5000rpm it could be boost creep which is something that would need to be fixed before mapping.

Try and get 0.5 bar boost target

drb5

iTrader: (4)

k

drb5

iTrader: (4)

ok, i've taken the dawes out and replaced it with one straight, not cut at all, piece of pipe from the ic bit to the actuator and i'm getting boost creep is it difficult to do or do i need Mr. Forrest to help me out with that? also...i'm still getting the first green light coming on. either on for a quick flash or staying on. i even got it on just driving a long in fifth at about 80, just keeping the revs the same onme thing that scoty mentioned was that, oil can have a bearing on det and i do find that the dawes is usually got oil coming out of it. for example, just the other day, the dawes was clean...no oil and then after a day and a couple of runs, there was oil on the outside of it. could this have something to do with the detting?


oh nearly forgot tomention the noise from the car last night. hard on the accelerator after turning the dawes down, i started to get the orange light at about *2* mph in fourth at about (5.5k is that?), i stay at this speed/revs for a few seconds, then the car made a very high pitched interferance style noise(the stereo was not on). it didn't sound like it was coming from any particular side of the car. i took my feet off all the pedals as soon at it started the noise, the lights on the knocklink went away and the noise gradually with the speed dissappeared too

loosing my cool with this car by the millisecond

john banks

How high is it boost creeping? What downpipe do you have fitted?

drb5

iTrader: (4)

it's creeping up to 1 bar from about 0.5/0.6 bar and the dp fitted is a revolution one. it's an open neck with no splitter in it.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

bttt


can anyone tell me for sure if i should be getting oil in at the dawes, or not? also, there may have been some oil at the throttle body? does oil cause det?

john banks

You could do the breathers to sort this problem which does cause det and is aggravated by high boost. Do a search in drivetrain as there is loads on this.

If you are planning to run over 1 bar at the top on the final map then this boost creep is not really a problem IMHO.

My 20G boost creeps on my 2.5 to similar levels, it is easy to control it at 1.1 bar or higher. I've no need to rip the turbo off to port the wastegate even more.

Meantime, drive it below the RPM it boost creeps.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

thanks a lot john. do you mean, get an oil catch can, as "the breathers"?

john banks

Bit more to it than that, and I wouldn't bother with the can either. Read the old threads for nauseating detail.

drb5

iTrader: (4)

lol

Scoty

Catch cans and PCV systems - Do we need them ?