gauge wiring help
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gauge wiring help
hi all, just got some gauges for my 01 bugeye, does anyone have a link on how to plumb in the boost gauge as ive never done it before i understand its got to T into the vacuum hose just wanted to make sure i do it right, also looking at the oil pressure/ temp cables on scoobyworld, how do they work as thought i needed a sandwich plate, or do i still?? Cheers for any help
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Hi mate, for the boost guage cut the small hose that goes to the dump valve/re circ valve, get the plastic t piece and plumb that in where you cut your hose and connect back up to dump valve and then get your hose that come with your gauge and thread it through th rubber grommet leading into the cabin and it should come out under the glove box, then al I done is threaded it up (took clock of) and the hose comes up where clock should go, I've got mine sat on top of the clock and wired into the clock wiring as the clock didn't work anyway lol, I haven't got any pictures or a guide but it is very easy to do. I'll get some pics tomorrow for you of no one else has a guide. Sorry for the sh*t explanation, I'm sure you'll be able to work it out with pics though lol
#3
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hi all, just got some gauges for my 01 bugeye, does anyone have a link on how to plumb in the boost gauge as ive never done it before i understand its got to T into the vacuum hose just wanted to make sure i do it right, also looking at the oil pressure/ temp cables on scoobyworld, how do they work as thought i needed a sandwich plate, or do i still?? Cheers for any help
If you are fitting a coolant temp the best place is using an adaptor plug and sensor into the blanking plug of cylinder three.
The guide is for a Classic but the procedures are the same.
https://www.scoobynet.com/interior-1...and-boost.html
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Hi mate, for the boost guage cut the small hose that goes to the dump valve/re circ valve, get the plastic t piece and plumb that in where you cut your hose and connect back up to dump valve and then get your hose that come with your gauge and thread it through th rubber grommet leading into the cabin and it should come out under the glove box, then al I done is threaded it up (took clock of) and the hose comes up where clock should go, I've got mine sat on top of the clock and wired into the clock wiring as the clock didn't work anyway lol, I haven't got any pictures or a guide but it is very easy to do. I'll get some pics tomorrow for you of no one else has a guide. Sorry for the sh*t explanation, I'm sure you'll be able to work it out with pics though lol
cheers pal seems fairly self explanatory ill give it a whirl
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#8
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No, no, no.
PLEASE, why didn't you do a search? I've recently written a long post about jjust this. gauge wiring crops up about every two weeks.
Here: https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...e-fitting.html Post #2
Boost is as above.
DO NOT use a sandwich plate unless you don't care about accurate results. Subaru put the sender positions where they are for a good reason...that's where they work best!
Yes, you MAY need an extension adaptor for the oil pressure gauge, most senders won't fit PHYSICALLY in the space the oil pressure switch is in. The extension adaptor allows it to fit, plus you can use the OE o/p switch too....mine is on the shelf in the garage, it's redundant with a decent gauge
PLEASE, why didn't you do a search? I've recently written a long post about jjust this. gauge wiring crops up about every two weeks.
Here: https://www.scoobynet.com/lighting-a...e-fitting.html Post #2
Boost is as above.
DO NOT use a sandwich plate unless you don't care about accurate results. Subaru put the sender positions where they are for a good reason...that's where they work best!
Yes, you MAY need an extension adaptor for the oil pressure gauge, most senders won't fit PHYSICALLY in the space the oil pressure switch is in. The extension adaptor allows it to fit, plus you can use the OE o/p switch too....mine is on the shelf in the garage, it's redundant with a decent gauge
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