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Old 16 September 2013, 11:09 AM
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rish13
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Default Buying advice?

Hello fellas,

I am new to the forum and the world of Scooby's...actually I haven't even got one yet

I've owned a 200SX S13 for the past 6 years and sold her three weeks ago as I want to venture into the world of 4WD.

I'm in no rush to buy atm which I see as an opportunity to increase my funds. Ideally, I am looking for a classic, type R or RA but no older than a 1999. My budget will be between £4.5 - £6k depending on what comes along.

I know one of the main things to look out for when buying a classic is that it's lump has been rebuilt/forged. However, my main question is, are there any other specific things to look out for when buying (apart from the obvious/generic)?

P.S. Apologies if there is a separate secion/thread on this topic already - but as mentioned, I'm a noob!
Old 16 September 2013, 11:42 AM
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d4vidh
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If you are looking at classics, watch out for rusty arches.
Old 16 September 2013, 12:49 PM
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ace1981
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Originally Posted by rish13
Hello fellas,

I know one of the main things to look out for when buying a classic is that it's lump has been rebuilt/forged. However, my main question is, are there any other specific things to look out for when buying (apart from the obvious/generic)?
Firstly, welcome aboard.

I'm sure someone will come along shortly to correct me if necessary, but I was never advised to ensure that the lump in a classic had been rebuilt or forged. If the mileage is well documented and there is plenty of service history, that should serve as enough evidence to support a well looked after machine.

If it helps, I bought my classic in June of last year, a 2000 UK turbo and it hasn't missed a trick since - no rebuild, no forged items.

Admittedly, only 49000 on the odo when purchased, but like you I'd signed up on here beforehand and couldn't find any advice on selecting only rebuilt engines.
Old 16 September 2013, 12:51 PM
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blackvenom
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welcome,

I would check for rust on rear arches, sills and around the front screen and rear screen.

The flatfour engines don't always show a head gasket issue as a milky emulsification, I would check the bottom hose for pressuring whilst on boost

I would also check what the car is against the vin, lots of uk2000 and wrx's are sold as sti's

I would stay clear of home modified chav cars, its better to spend/ wait a little and buy a clean oem car or one that's been professionally upgraded.

I would buy a car with full service history, receipts are better than just stamps (unless you phone about)

I wouldn't be put off if the engine hasn't been rebuilt or forged. depending on what power your looking for.

I would check the vin plates if looking at ra's seems common to miss sell them and its confusing as there are so many different versions,

Your budget should get you a nice car that should hold a good value as long as you buy the best you can

due to the age I wouldn't be put off by a car with a few different owners as long as its been looked after.
ask about cleaning products used, sometimes gives a good indication if the cars been cherished or used as a thrash about. check if the tyres are all the same brand. (could mean nothing but could show if moneys been spend on items)

Last edited by blackvenom; 16 September 2013 at 12:55 PM.
Old 16 September 2013, 12:54 PM
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blackvenom
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a looked after engine will cope with stage 1 and stage 2 tuning well (upto 350bhp) but due to the age of the engines things can go wrong without warning, just keep money aside just in case and if have the work done then you know its been right
Old 16 September 2013, 12:55 PM
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blackvenom
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if you post a link of cars you had in mind then people can give you more detailed review
Old 16 September 2013, 01:08 PM
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rish13
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Thanks very much folks.

I've looked online at Hurst Cars, they seem to have a few good cars coming their way but not been up to physically see one. From what I've read, the bloke seems pretty legit but prices are a touch on the high side - I'm hoping that's because you are paying for quality.

There seem to be quite a few scoobs in Scotland I've noticed...Aberdeen and Glasgow etc. Tbh I don't think I'd venture that far to buy one!

I don't think I would be looking for ridiculous power so between the 320-360bhp mark suits me.

I've also looked into the benefit of fitting a knock link if the one I buy doesn't come with one. But again, as you all mention, a well looked after engine with moderate power upgrades may not necessarily need one??

How temperamental are the gearboxes of classics?
Old 16 September 2013, 02:17 PM
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blackvenom
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Gear boxes aren't too bad on the classics. 350 is about thier limit, the jdm cars have different radios (shorter) so it's not uncommon to fit the longer uk 5 into a jdm box. The 6 speeds are much more hardy but it's a £1500 conversation if its not been done.
Old 16 September 2013, 02:19 PM
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blackvenom
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Yes heard good things those cars, few people on here brought from there. Subaus using the oem ecu already have knock sensors.
Old 17 September 2013, 09:11 AM
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rish13
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Originally Posted by blackvenom
Yes heard good things those cars, few people on here brought from there. Subaus using the oem ecu already have knock sensors.
Hmmmm didn't know that. Learn something new everyday I guess!

How are the fuel pumps? I've noticed many many people upgrade to a Walbro but is this only required if you're looking to get a remap done?

I guess for my budget I could also go for a blobeye as I do also like them but I want to compete with my mates Evo VI so the weight of one of those may hold me back! Lol
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