Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Further to my earlier post about replacing various rusty nuts and bolts on the suspension of my car, I wondered if there are any others on here similarly afflicted with a desire to have the underside of their car as clean as the bodywork above it.

If so, any chance of some photos of your efforts please if you have them. Mine's not suitably photogenic yet I'm afraid.

Thanks folks.

Swedge

iTrader: (1)

I like mine to be clean but not painted clean


Mines is getting the old underseal taken off and then re sealed to get it fresh

ant1973

I get mine wax oiled to keep her tidy

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Here's mine
[IMG][/IMG]
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[IMG][/IMG]

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

[IMG][/IMG]
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[IMG][/IMG]

blackvenom

Seen a few scoobys with colour coded bottoms, I want to strip mine down and get parts blasted and powdercoated, help it age a little slower, make it last.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Prodriverules, superb stuff there.

Anyone else please?

lordharding

iTrader: (1)

Wow amazing
NBO 12 Sunday 29 June 2014

Please

Suberman

scooby87

iTrader: (5)

I like this thread, mine now needs to be much cleaner!

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Very nice standard example suberman

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

But who's stand though ??
Oh almost forgot,the boot install
[IMG][/IMG]

Maz

iTrader: (34)

Work of art Ryan. :-)

legacy_gtb

iTrader: (3)

I prefer my powdercoat to have a healthy layer of b road matter on it! :-)

M2RTXhawkeye

iTrader: (61)

Lovely Ryan... Want mine cleaner underneath now

Has to be on SOCOM stand will look sweet parked next to mine

Martin

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks very much everyone, these are all inspirational examples.

Please keep them coming.

Suberman, that's exactly what I'm aiming for for mine, but the existing rust may make it impossible. Have you kept it that clean from new, or did you have to restore it to that condition (I'm assuming the former)?

Suberman

Cheers for the compliment. Yours isn't looking too shabby. Looks like a serious machine there.

-Nic-

iTrader: (4)

Fair play Suberman, have you actually driven that yet.?

Still looks mint

Suberman

You are right Osimabu. It's been kept as clean as possible since new. It would require a lot more work (but definitely possible ) to get it to this state if it's been neglected somewhat.

It's a Spec C so there is not underseal so it's easier to keep clean.

To be fair, the first 2 pictures were taken when the car only had about 1k miles. The last few pictures were taken when i took the rear diffuser off for a bit of detailing.

This was taken with about 6k miles on the clock. The water marks can be cleaned up, it's still pretty much just as clean. So definitely possible.





How far do you intend to take yours to? If you intend to go the whole nine yards, you can strip the undercarriage bare, strip of existing underseal, remove all rust (assuming it's just surface rust), prime and paint. The bolts can be replated.

Regards
Errol

Suberman

Cheers Nic. Not much to be honest.

How was the Nurburgring trip?

Regards
Errol

-Nic-

iTrader: (4)

Nurburgring was really good thanks, the car handled over 50 laps well, slowly chipping away at the lap times

It's back at RCM having a few upgrades before I go back in August for a week

Suberman

over 50 laps?! You sure are driving the Spec C like how it's intended. Unlike me.

Don't forget the updates then Nic.

-Nic-

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it's done really well this year. Can't fault it considering it was running a 'fast road' spec.

All will be revealed...

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Awesome thread

Mine needs a lot of work when I get access to a garage.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

I'm really not too sure how far I can go with mine. Some of the little brackets such as that on the cable to the (?) ABS sensor are quite rusty now and they don't appear to be designed to be removed, so bits like that are a problem.

My initial bit of 'sport' is going to be getting the rear lateral link bolts out as they're pretty bad. Then there's cleaning up the hubs, although Bilt Hamber's Deox-C gel should deal with them (over a couple of tedious weeks) from previous experience.

Iain250

iTrader: (1)

Hey osimabu just do what i did - do it over the winter and find a local blaster and then powder coat its real cheap, rebush and rebolt as you go along - this is a big difficult job though and it gets tough going at times ( especially that dam lateral bolt)




good luck and remember you will be saving one of japans finest
iain

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Iain, that's most helpful.

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Any other similarly impressive cars to show off please?

Silver Scooby Sport

iTrader: (15)

I'm not sure about impressive but I can do work in progress, here's a link for around page 10 on https://www.scoobynet.com/960066-v2-...roject-10.html

Osimabu

iTrader: (2)

Thanks very much, that's a most interesting read to say the least, and very impressive work.

For future reference, I'm a great fan of this stuff:

http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-treatments/deox-c

If you buy a plasterer's bath:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd140/p64497

You can fill it with the solution and just about all the pressed steel components you can think of will fit into it. Take them out every day and wash them off with a hosepipe and a nylon brush outside (not in the bath, it contaminates the mix) and they will have every trace of rust removed after a few days.

I did my front horseshoe subframe and a few other bits this way last year although I've a very long way to go yet on other parts of my car.

Lumps that you don't want to immerse, such as the rear differential, can be done with the Deox Gel wrapped in clingfilm. I stripped the 22 year old rear axle on my old Manta that way and it came up looking like new, although I'll admit it took about two weeks to get there.

I hope this is of interest as an alternative to shot blasting.