Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Had my classic 2000uk turbo in to get the timing belt, kit and water pump changed to be told the bolts on the cover are that corroded that I need new bolts And a new rear l/h cover oh and then I need a new bottom radiator hose and the three modine hoses all of which are not in stock.

The cost was £538 now it's up to £730!!!

So the car is parked up. I did price the items required at import car parts and all in came to £322.

Should I do it myself?

rob84

iTrader: (5)

If your competent with the spanners mate I'd have a go yourself. there's plenty of information or folk on the forum who can guide you through it

ROSCO99

Get the bits take it to Camy at CSK TUNING
BELLSHILL done mine last week same problem with covers
but managed to save covers just replaced bolts

stualex

iTrader: (3)

Just did a belt change and all pulleys/tensioner on mine (53 Blob), got all the parts from ICP as they are just down the road and it took less than 5 hrs, fair enough yours has a couple of little issues but the bottom rad hose will be a doddle when you have the rad and fans out and as for the cam cover you may get away with drilling the old bolts out and running a tap down.

Certainly worth a crack yourself tho.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Where in Bellshill are they and if you don't mind me asking, what did he charge?

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Seriously considering doing it myself!

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

£400 is a fair bit of money to save, I always look at it and say even if it takes me 2 days thats £200 a day pay, which ain't too shabby for spinning spanners.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what I was thinking
Just a bit apprehensive because of what it is!


I can't seem to find anywhere that sells the bolts for the covers! Anyone got an idea of where to get these?

stualex

iTrader: (3)

Bolts for the covers are just standard M8 I think but will be easy enough to source from a hardware store.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Ah, thanks for that. There's a few that will come off so I'll take one with me if I decide to do it!

Infected by sti

iTrader: (6)

Just do it yourself if you feel capable, then spend the money you save on some goodies I know what I would be doing if I possessed the skills and knowledge

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Just been out at it and tied all the rusty nuts on the cam cover and all seem to move freely?? Don't know what's going on?

Can you tell me how you cracked the big nut at the front, this is my biggest problem??

stualex

iTrader: (3)

If you mean the crank pulley then slot it into 4th or 5th gear and get a 22mm socket with a long breaker bar, I used my 250nm torque wrench which is about 3ft long. Should move no bother then.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

That's the one, I've got a torque wrench about 2ft in length so if I do decide to do it I'm sure that should work, if not I'll get a bigger one from somewhere!

stualex

iTrader: (3)

I've also heard of some people resting the torque wrench or breaker bar against the floor or chassis then giving the engine a quick flick over on the starter which apparently breaks the nut free. I didn't fancy that method myself mind!

Have you bought everything to do the job, belt, pullies, tensioner etc. My main biggest issue with doing it myself was that I wanted to strip the car first, then find out what needed replacing then order said parts. Only problem with this was that my car would have been out of action for longer so I just bought the full kit straight away. Glad I did now as I did it all fairly quickly and have piece of mind I don't need to go in there again!

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Not yet, think I would just buy the full kit before I start. Looks like I'm going to do this!!!
Where did you get the torque settings from? Oh and is there a reason why I should go for the gates belt?

stualex

iTrader: (3)

I looked at both belts and read up on them and it looks like Dyco belts are made by Gates anyway so just go with whatever you want, at the end of the day they are designed to do a job and be fit for purpose so don't worry about the name on the packaging.

I got the torque settings from this guide:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1794043

Should be a handy guide for you too, I read through it a few times and the job seemed more and more straight forward with every read.

I would say try and have a second set of hands when you come to install the belt, I fooked on for around 30mins trying to get it all right but kept on being out 1 took somewhere, luckily my mate came along then with him holding the belt on the left hand cam gears I got it on the right hand ones straight away. It also helped having someone else agree that all the marks lined up.

You will have marks on your new timing belt which will line up with the marks on your crank and two upper cams, make sure they do line up. Also they guide says to leave the bottom left hand pulley off when fitting the new belt, this does help a lot but it can be a biatch to get the pulley on with the belt installed. I found that a cable tie holding the lower section of the belt to the upper section helped loads. I did actually start cross threading the pulley bolt without the cable tie in place but ran a tap down and it was fine.

Didn't want to scare you with that but it was the only issue I encountered, you'll know what I mean when you get there.

ROSCO99

Sorry late reply cost me £120 but i got a few other things done oil and filter changed some hoses. he in North road in Bellshill.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that. Still don't know whether or not to do it myself!