initialD

iTrader: (2)

finally got car back from api today couldnt wait to start it up and when i did , god !!! didnt relize how loud it was !! neighbours really are gonna hate me ! first time ive heard it for year and a half . its signed off the road til after crimbo as its not finished on the body work side of things yet . so just driving it up and down my garages all day heres a pic of my engine i decided to get it built to sti spec with a brand new vf34 turbo ,sti pinks and intercooler , full de-cat exhaust system + up pipe , walbro pump , ngk iridiums and various silicone hoses . had me grinning when i opened the bonnet

anyone want to post a pic of their engine ? feel free

specialx

Nice!

fingerscooby

Looks very very nice who did the green Sti on the top mount I will be ruining similar disc but with vf34 what are your figures?

initialD

iTrader: (2)

cheers lads fingerscooby i done the intercooler myself , heres some pics if your interested ?? as for figures ? dont know yet need to get it mapped after 1000 mile run in . using ecutek anything over 330bhp and im chuffed

first i polished it using 2 different cutting compounds and various polishing wheels , wet and dry sanding etc .





then i painted the lime green in the area i wanted the lettering .




bought an sti decal from ebay and stuck it over the green in centre .




finally painted 3 coats of grey primer undercoat and 5 coats of satin black , peeled off the decal and voila

Anger

iTrader: (4)

Better hurry up with those miles with the Esc tunnel run this weekend

Looking good mate

john1979

Superb.
I know the feeling of getting the car back from API, great isn't it.
Enjoy.

daz1968

iTrader: (13)

Doesn't all the paint reduce efficiency of intercooler

initialD

iTrader: (2)

is a great feeling only problem is that my experience with cars especially this one up to now !! has been quite bad ! and im really paranoid something is gonna happen ?? like my turbo is brand new "vf34" and is quite noisy , when im in my garage and i rev the engine as the revs fall , it sounds like a whining supercharger ? but ive heard it could be because its a ball bearing turbo and they are quite noisy ? also any smoke out the exhaust and i worry proper paranoid me think i need counciling

as for tunnel run ,anger .................gutted i cant make it !! but look forward to the next one , be good to meet some new scooby enthusiast's

initialD

iTrader: (2)

the thought did cross my mind hopefully not !! i think it will to a certain extent ? but hopefully not enough to worry about ?
actually thinking about it , it should be fine as the paint is only on the top part of the intercooler isnt it .

jura11

iTrader: (7)

nice one matey,looking good


Yes VF34 are noisy turbos due are ball bearing as you are suggest and this will increase with silicone induction hose,on mine has been same like on yours,just don't be paranoid,just search here and you will see,its normal for this turbo


Jura

initialD

iTrader: (2)

nice one jura feel better already its crazy how quick you learn things about subarus on this forum

initialD

iTrader: (2)

guys u know i said i was paranoid ? well heres an example ! i hate the sight of smoke coming from the exhaust , because that was the start of my problems a year and a half ago ive just realized its smoking quite a bit when i just rev it to 3k , i wanted to show you a video clip ! but dont know how from my i-pod ? does anyone else have quite a bit of smoke ?

ibanezvaio

Don't forget it's getting quite cold now so seeing a bit more smoke than you're used to 'should' be normal. Engine looks great by the way-lovin the inter cooler

terzoscooby

Don't keep running it in the garage mate you risk glazing the bores and journals. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. Get it out on the road heater on full to keep the engine temp down and give it short burst of light power followed by over run to cool it off. Slowly build the amount of power and duration over the 1000 miles. A new engine should smoke because of the oil in the honing and the poor ring fit.
This is just my opinion but plenty swear by it.
Check with your engine builder for their for their recommendations.

initialD

iTrader: (2)

cheers terzoscooby thats actually very interesting my plan is to drive it after christmas because i need to save some money ! and as im sure your aware running a scooby and saving at the same time just dont mix but i have spoken to david at api and said im planning on letting it idle for 20mins-30mins to reach full temp every couple of weeks which he seemed to think was a good shout ? i know its not ideal ? but i really have no options
and cheers for the comment on cooler fella

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

I think you will be better off letting it do nothing,as you will not seal the rings.

To do this properly requires various engine loads, if your not going to use it don't let it idle up to temp or it will burn oil like a ******, after doing lots of reading in projects the general opinion is that it's the worst thing to do.

But hey it's your car.

And if you decide to use your method don't forget to disconnect the crank sensor as though you just did an oil change and turn it over till the oil light goes out so as to make sure you have oil everywhere in the engine as after a couple of weeks it will have drained down to the sump,and be bone dry.

initialD

iTrader: (2)

i want to do the right thing believe me after the amount of money it has cost me !!! last thing i want is to create problems !! anyone else have any views on this ??

prodriverules

iTrader: (52)

Tbho I would just leave it stand for the duration mate,it won't do it any harm.
The risk of glazing the bores will be high without the benifit of loading and overrun driving imho.

terzoscooby

Its a mine field. If you look at research in the arctic some experts estimate that the wear on the rings of an internal combustion engine is as high as 0.001" per 1000 miles of operation when the oil temperature is below 170 degrees F. Also anything from 50-90% of engine wear occurs at startup. A quick warm up is advised by most experts. One thing for sure a stationary engine doesn't wear.
On a straight 4 engine etc. I always remove the plugs after a long stand. Make sure the battery is fully charged and crank her over fast to get oil pressure up before trying to start. That way there is no compression forces on the big ends/little ends and no side forces on the pistons etc. I even remove the rocker cover and squirt oil on the cams. These flat fours don't lend themselves well to that approach.

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Agreed, on an engine that is fresh and has done maybe 100 miles since rebuild, leave it stand. Disconnect the battery and wait.

Then when time comes; remove cam or crank sensor connector and spin up the oil pressure before starting and letting it warm up for at least 30 minutes then go drive it.

That way you don't run the risk of glazing the bores before you ever get started.

Good advice from members above.

David APi

dunx

iTrader: (3)

My first 50 miles were done simply accelerating to 4000 rpm and letting it slow to about 1500 rpm and repeat... done mid-evening on a quiet country road.

The load under vacuum sucks the rings against the bores and gets them bedding-in nicely. Various amounts of throttle are gradually increased towards the 100 mile oil change (second). Then I used some of my 0.5 bar of boost for the first 500 miles.

Then went to semi-synthetic oil at 1000 miles till it gets it's winter map.

Not a hint of smoke, nor a measurable drop of oil used.

HTH

dunx

Markyscoob

Mine was a full on rebuild from Alan Jefferies. 2.5 EJ257 lump. Wiseco pistons, K1 rods and balanced standard STi crank. I ran it in by driving about with gentle acceleration and engine braking for about 700miles. Still smoked a bit after that but it's stopped after about 1000miles totally now. Mapped to 350 ish and doesn't use any oil at all. I left it on mineral oil until 1,000miles and now on semi until next spring when I'll change again onto proper fully-synth.

All I can recommend is avoid idling, build the revs up and avoid boost until it's warm, but certainly don't sit idling until it's warm! Get out and about driving so everything warms up then once the temperature comes up build up the work on the engine. Feel free to stop every 30 minutes or so and check the oil, but that's overkill.

I've left the rest of the engine bay standard for now.

initialD

iTrader: (2)

battery disconnected as for the disconnecting of cam sensor havent a clue what that is ? ill be asking for a diagram when the time comes people thank you all for the helpful advise .


see you after crimbo David


Dave

speedking

Surely a four stroke goes suck, squeeze, bang, blow, so even under normal running the intake stroke creates a vacuum every other revolution. Does the engine braking on the overrun actually achieve anything?

APIDavid

iTrader: (4)

Engine braking on the overrun can over-rev an engine if you come down the box too fast AND in any case the engine is effectively unloaded [ Throttle shut ] so there is no energy going in on top of the pistons. Which is what you want on running in.

The modern way to drive is to arrive at a corner flat. Get on the brakes and go straight to gear for the corner.

Engine braking by using the gearbox, is an invention from when cars had crap brakes and were unlikely to stop. Nowadays brakes are much better and cheaper to replace than gearboxes and engines [ and clutches ].

It is hard to change the habits of a lifetime [ especially an old bugger like me ] BUT it is the way to go.

David APi

Hammer man

iTrader: (25)

Now you tell meI`ll try it later....