Buying a Scooby what to look for ?
23 April 2002, 04:35 PM
#6
not on a car with only 13K! 
The clutch might judder when cold, this is a trait of all scoobs. If it isnt slipping u dont need to worry. Same with the g-box, when you test drive (i hope u insist on a testdrive?) if its notchy when cold, this is normal. Make sure theres no weird noises, and the change should be slick when warmed up.
If u like it, get it checked over before u buy for extra piece of mind. I cant see any problems with an Splate with only 13K though
The clutch might judder when cold, this is a trait of all scoobs. If it isnt slipping u dont need to worry. Same with the g-box, when you test drive (i hope u insist on a testdrive?) if its notchy when cold, this is normal. Make sure theres no weird noises, and the change should be slick when warmed up.
If u like it, get it checked over before u buy for extra piece of mind. I cant see any problems with an Splate with only 13K though
Trending Topics
23 April 2002, 04:44 PM
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Not all those who wander are lost
Posts: 17,863
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Piston Slap
The symptoms are a distinctive knocking sound when cold, which disappears when the engine warms up. It is quite loud, and is not to be confused with a tappetty sound quite common in our cars when first started. The noise is apparently like a BOK BOK BOK.
This is apparently a "known" problem with MY98 cars, and some 97MY cars. It seems with the new piston design introduced with the new engine, there can be a chance of the piston in cylinder number 4 distorting slightly. The problem is with the piston skirt design as you state and the fix is the replacement of a 'short engine'.
The fix is either a new short block (ie block + crank + pistons etc), or a new piston for number 4 cylinder which has a different design. Which option is fitted depends on the severity of the problem, as some are worse than others.
The problem is apparently due to heat distribution, and it's just as likely to affect a car which has had an easy life, as one which has been pushed hard, so it's no reflection on how the car has been used, or the owner.
A 'short engine' is the basic block (the rest of your engine like
alternator/turbo etc gets put back), as this is cheaper than ripping and re-building. It is not a short block, or closed deck
Thanks Greg H
The symptoms are a distinctive knocking sound when cold, which disappears when the engine warms up. It is quite loud, and is not to be confused with a tappetty sound quite common in our cars when first started. The noise is apparently like a BOK BOK BOK.
This is apparently a "known" problem with MY98 cars, and some 97MY cars. It seems with the new piston design introduced with the new engine, there can be a chance of the piston in cylinder number 4 distorting slightly. The problem is with the piston skirt design as you state and the fix is the replacement of a 'short engine'.
The fix is either a new short block (ie block + crank + pistons etc), or a new piston for number 4 cylinder which has a different design. Which option is fitted depends on the severity of the problem, as some are worse than others.
The problem is apparently due to heat distribution, and it's just as likely to affect a car which has had an easy life, as one which has been pushed hard, so it's no reflection on how the car has been used, or the owner.
A 'short engine' is the basic block (the rest of your engine like
alternator/turbo etc gets put back), as this is cheaper than ripping and re-building. It is not a short block, or closed deck
Thanks Greg H
23 April 2002, 04:49 PM
#11
Scooby Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Piston Slap .... An expensive way of your engine telling you its had enough of life and is giving up the ghost....
Its where there is excessive wear of the bore by the piston causing a rattly "loose" slapping of metal against metal which would often disappear when warmed up. Mine went once the car had run out of warranty (MY98, Bought new in 2000) went wrong in 2002 and cost me about £1600 to fix. I think i'd only done 25000 "careful" ahem miles in it.
German dealers had never heard of the problem; whilst the comonly mooted solution is to fit a new short block (the bit that envelopes the piston in v simple terms) which is either of a different design or of different materials. My dealer (German) told me he'd fitted differently machined pistons.
Top tip - Get it done under warranty. Not sure if it affects WRX, STi et al......
Its where there is excessive wear of the bore by the piston causing a rattly "loose" slapping of metal against metal which would often disappear when warmed up. Mine went once the car had run out of warranty (MY98, Bought new in 2000) went wrong in 2002 and cost me about £1600 to fix. I think i'd only done 25000 "careful" ahem miles in it.
German dealers had never heard of the problem; whilst the comonly mooted solution is to fit a new short block (the bit that envelopes the piston in v simple terms) which is either of a different design or of different materials. My dealer (German) told me he'd fitted differently machined pistons.
Top tip - Get it done under warranty. Not sure if it affects WRX, STi et al......
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM