Timing belt change
#4
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it's pretty easy really. You will need 10mm socket on ratchet with small extension bar for cambelt cover, 22mm socket and breaker bar for the crank pulley bolt. 17mm socket for the cam wheels (to rotate them to correct position when timing up).
Remove radiator & fans, cam belt cover, crank pulley.
Then rotate crank to safe position (I think it's with the woodruff key at 6'Oclock position but check first) BEFORE removing the belt.
Check condition of water pump, oil pump, idlers and tensioner - replace if necessary (replace if not sure).
Rotate cam wheels to correct positions, fit new belt, check timing.
Rotate manually the crank one or more full rotations. check timing marks on wheels etc (marks on belt will not line up again).
Check the timing again.
put it all back together.
Remove radiator & fans, cam belt cover, crank pulley.
Then rotate crank to safe position (I think it's with the woodruff key at 6'Oclock position but check first) BEFORE removing the belt.
Check condition of water pump, oil pump, idlers and tensioner - replace if necessary (replace if not sure).
Rotate cam wheels to correct positions, fit new belt, check timing.
Rotate manually the crank one or more full rotations. check timing marks on wheels etc (marks on belt will not line up again).
Check the timing again.
put it all back together.
#5
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if you live any where near the tamworth area you could bring it to me on a sat morning and i'll do it with ya FOC so you 1, know its been done/ properly 2, know for future ref, jays
#6
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Thats a good offer mate, fair play to you.
Its a fairly easy job, you just need to take you're time, do not attempt it if you are in a rush, that's when mistakes are made. Make sure you keep the belt clean of oil. And turn it over by hand a few times, then i few times more just to make sure all you're timing marks line up again.
As mentioned, import car parts is a great place for kits. Fast delivery too. Good luck!
Its a fairly easy job, you just need to take you're time, do not attempt it if you are in a rush, that's when mistakes are made. Make sure you keep the belt clean of oil. And turn it over by hand a few times, then i few times more just to make sure all you're timing marks line up again.
As mentioned, import car parts is a great place for kits. Fast delivery too. Good luck!
#7
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Also here is a link to the timing marks & cambelt layout thanks to jolly green monster
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/cambelt.htm
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/cambelt.htm
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#8
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thanks for all the replies, i live in lancashire so a bit far from tamworth,ive seen the ones on import car parts but which one should i get the gates or genuine subaru?
Subaru Impreza Turbo Cambelt Timing Belt Gates or Dayco 1992 to 1998
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
OR
Subaru Impreza Turbo 92 to 98 Cambelt Timing Belt
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
Subaru Impreza Turbo Cambelt Timing Belt Gates or Dayco 1992 to 1998
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
OR
Subaru Impreza Turbo 92 to 98 Cambelt Timing Belt
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
#11
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Also here is a link to the timing marks & cambelt layout thanks to jolly green monster
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/cambelt.htm
http://www.jollygreenmonster.com/cambelt.htm
A note worth pointing out: In the one picture, the timing marks of the two right hand pulleys is done with the belt without tension, so the bottom pulley looks like it is a tooth out. If you look at the lower pics, the belt is tensioned and the marks between the pulleys align OK.
Also OP: search is your friend, if yon've never done a cambelt before, get help. If you've done a cambelt on a twin cam engine, then you should already know the basics and pitfalls which will also apply to a quad cam engine.
Workshop manuals: https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...d-updated.html
Sources: https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...placement.html
Cautionary tail regarding keyways and timing mark alignment (plus some tips on pulley removal) : https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-look-out.html
More: https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-cam-belt.html
Bit more: https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...14k-miles.html
The shop manuals don't say anything on checking idler pulleys or water pump - it is IMPERATIVE that these are checked and assesesd that their bearings are good enough until the next cambelt change (if its rough or loud when spun, its knackered).
Last edited by ALi-B; 15 March 2011 at 02:18 AM.
#12
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yep that can't be over emphasised. I had a bearing fail on one of my idlers and it made an almighty racket (it was toothed and collapsed against the oil pump). Luckily no farther damage was done but it could have been a lot worse.
#14
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-MG-K-Ser...-/220448898587
if not just set the timimg to tdc and get two sets of mole grips and gently clamp the two pulleys left and right, so they don't move, i also use portable timing marks ( tipex) , put two marks on each pulley, and then two marks on the engine case next to the pulley marks , before the tension is removed of the belt, then when refitting just line the marks up together and you can't go wrong.
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Personally I would never use mole grips on the cam pulleys; They are composite plastic and fracture VERY easily. And the temptation to put too much clamping force with mole grips.
Bull dog clips will suffice - use them to hold the belt on the pulley (which will stop it spinning).
There is some locking tools out there, but you can get away without them.
Last edited by ALi-B; 16 March 2011 at 11:45 AM.
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