p1kris

iTrader: (3)

Hi everyone, i finally have got my self a mint P1!.........so - pick it up in a week and there is a few things i want to sort;

1. The p1 plate behind the gear stick is missing? Any1 know how to find out what number it is and to get a new plate? ive checked all the numbers and its a real P1 not a type r in disguise




2. looking for a company in the southeast to fit alarm, turbo timer and remote start? any good ones?

Splitpin

Welcome. Re. question 2, it should come with a Sigma M30 alarm. Turbo timers are an all-round bad idea, you'd be better off not bothering with one.

DJ_Jon

iTrader: (7)

Does it not already have an alarm fitted?

Ring Prodrive, they should be able to help you.

p1kris

iTrader: (3)

oh? ok, but dont they just let your engine run on to let your turbo spin down?

Splitpin

Yes, which is why they're a bad idea. If the intention is to cool something, doing it when the car is standing still and the engine is idling is about the worst possible way.

There's no airflow through the engine compartment or the radiator (until it gets hot enough to trigger the fan), and if the engine's only idling, the efficiency of the cooling system is compromised even further by the slow rotation speed of the water pump.

Aside from the fact that most of them invalidate cat 1 status on your alarm, your engine will prefer it if you cool your turbo off by driving along slowly, with airflow running through the rad and scoop, and with the engine (and hence coolant) running at driving speeds, for a couple of minutes before switching off.

If you've been driving along off boost for two or three minutes prior to parking, your turbo will already be cool enough to switch off without the need to artificially maintain coolant circulation. There might be more benefit in these things on some other cars which have oil cooled turbos, but on an Impreza, with a watercooled turbo, they're pointless, pretty much counterproductive, trinkets.

If you have an EGT gauge or a temp sensor on the turbo's centre housing you'd realise that leaving the car parked up with the engine running will often make the turbo get hotter, not colder!

bob r

iTrader: (46)

Re the P1 plaque.........Join P1WOC as they organised the plaques [which I believe are not standard] and they will help you out with all your q's.

p1kris

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the advise splitpin, i'll think i'll leave it then! you seem like you know your stuff with these so i have one final question;

The engine seems to wobble when idling and warm, you can even see the intercooler moving side to side through the bonnet scoop, it doesn't misfire tho, i'm a merc tech and i would have said maf sensor or flywheel but not sure with these

+Doc+

The build number is on top of the suspension turret (front right)

Turbo timers invalidate your insurance, just let it tick over a bit after a run.

+Doc+

If the maf has gone the car will hunt at idle and stall.
Is it revving ok? or nearly stalling?
If so DO NOT drive it like this!!!!

If it is ticking over ok maybe an engine mount has perished?

Splitpin

It's not at all unusual for these engines to rock a little but it's obviously impossible for us to tell you via the interweb whether what you're seeing is within the realms of normality. As Doc says it could be woolly engine mounts. If the flywheel/clutch were significantly out of balance you'll get vibration through the transmission while driving.

If, as Doc says, the idle speed is noticeably inconsistent, then the airflow sensor is an obvious suspect. You can evaluate this yourself by disconnecting the sensor and then starting the engine. If the idle stability noticeably improves, order a new sensor and don't drive the car on boost (and ideally as little as possible) until it's fitted. Don't drive the car with the sensor disconnected either.

While it's probably not directly relevant to your post there is one area where Doc's suggestion isn't quite accurate - and this is the certainty contained within the statement "If the maf has gone the car will hunt at idle and stall".

Unfortunately it's not that black and white. It's far from uncommon for these sensors to become dangerously degraded in a manner in which idle performance is totally normal.

If in doubt - about the "wobbling" or anything else, the best thing you can probably do is get the car to a good local Subaru specialist (or stealer). Someone who knows will soon be able to tell you what's normal and what's not.