scottclassicwrx

hopeing for some help with my classic wrx import the problem is the check engine light has come on the dash and when u try and put your foot down the boost is very lumpy and car just jolts any ideas thanks

jay_jay

Your car might be able to tell you whats wrong with it , follow this instruction

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes

nick172sport

iTrader: (6)

gone into limp mode need to get the fault red code

sparks_c/s

Connect your green n black connectors under the dash turn ign on for engine check light flash codes, see if there's any codes in there, If your not sure how to do this or don't know the codes, look in the "how to section" on this forum. see wot you get? go from there mate! or follow link from jay jay, nice 1 jay! cheers!

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

What fuel are you running the car on? (ie unleaded/super unleaded/vpower/tesco99 etc)

Tony

scottclassicwrx

its running v power

scottclassicwrx

thanks for the link ill give it a try

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Incase you couldn't find what jay jay was trying to show you (I think) this is the link to the correct page's for reading your fault code on your classic and the codes key.

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Reading ECU Fault Codes

Scoobypedia | Trusted knowledge for everything Subaru | Knowledge / Subaru Specific Trouble Code Definitions

Thats what I'd check first.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Any modifications?

Tony

scottclassicwrx

No modifications and the fault code reads iac valve fault

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm looks like a new one is about 300ish quid, 475 from a main dealer
Have a read of this topic

Idle Control Valve - Subaru Impreza Drivers Club

Tony

Quasi Modo

Funny that, sounds a bit like mine. Starts fine, drives for about 5-10 minutes and cuts out, starts fine again and doesn't do it anymore, but this happens everyday pretty much. Mie's a P reg WRX.(SILVER).

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Am I right in thinking that we're talking about the (usually) creamy grey coloured plastic idle control valve on top of the engine air inlet manifolds? Because if we are I'd recommend giving it a clean, reset the ecu (20 min battery disconnection) and then try it before shelling out that sort of money .
All I did with mine when I had problems was disconnect the battery, check the wiring (all good), unplug it, (note position as is adjustable) then using a phillips head screw driver undid the two small screws and removed the top half from the car. Then using some brake cleaner, sprayed the metal inside, scrubbed over with a wire brush, then dryed. Also I used the brake cleaner on a cloth and cleaned the rod in the centre (part left still on the manifold) using the wire brush again. I left it to allow the brake cleaner to evaporate then re-fitted it in the same position, connected the plug and re-attached my battery. Might be worth trying before spending the cash

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

Yup clean it first, cheaper than 300+ quid

Tony

GMballistic

iTrader: (1)

Crazy money isn't it The joys of Subaru ownership aye' Tony