stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

Just want to thank the guys up at Litchfield, I picked up a mk1 t25 a month ago and it was not making full boost only 0.7 bar, they changed the 2port to a 3port boost solinoid and ian spent some time tweaking the map so it run right. Now hits 1.3bar and drives like it should do. It's now a completely different car to drive and I am grinning from ear to ear so ian, matt and jenny thanks for all your help the type 20 / 25's are something else.

dc911

I had 2 mk1 type25s including the no1 car (which was stolen) only ever had great service from iain, best trader i have ever used and hope to again sometime soon!!! Glad you are happy pal.

TimH

iTrader: (11)

Glad it's sorted Steve How's the other changes coming along? Seen you asking about interiors and so on

Boyakasha

iTrader: (2)

Ian maps cars now?

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

.

Yes he does

we were at Brands Hatch Febuary and he spent some time tweaking his MY08 Hatch type20 after each session

For me it very interesting as the MY08> ecu map Far more complex than the MY07< IMHO

Tony

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

Hi tim, yeah the car is coming along the map is running as it should and I am truely shocked with how responsive the car is and how the power and when the power comes in, have one or two more exterior tweaks and then to start on the inside whilst I get used to the drive of the car and then I will start on the engine.

Shaun

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

think the engine work will start early next year to be honest, have an idea on what i want to do with the inside but it just depends on funds and the right parts turning up. so i am in no major rush as i am just enjoying the car. i may even leave the inside as is but i am thinking a nice set of front seats and then black spec c door cards, carpet and rear seats or depending on what seats i might just retrim the rest in two minds at the minute. as for the engine i think i will be looking any where from 400-450 more for the fact of cost really i think a fmic, new injectors and one of the new turbos will se me where i want to be but along with that i think i will have an oil cooler and baffelled sump to help with track days, think i will have to do the head studs too as i think the conrods should be ok at this level but i may have them done at the same time for peace of mind and for future if i decide to go for more. so first on the list will be the studs, rods, sump and oil cooler and then i can take tock of what i want to achieve from the car.

so any pointers or help from anyone who has gone down this path would be great as this is the first newage i have had and i am finding there are some difference between what a classic and newage can take as standard.

cheers

steve

bluenosewrx

iTrader: (2)

Cue Shuan:


Lol.

Mac

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

^^ ha lets hope so as i am sure there is soo much he can tell me

Shaun

ROFLOL @ Stevie

What will you be using the car for and how many miles has the engine done?

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

car has done 38k full history by litchfield, roger clark.

car is to be used at the minute as an everyday car and as many trackdays as i can next year as i did a couple this year in my old p1 and loved evey minute so will be wanting to do more next year.

i will be looking to pick up a run around late this year early next for to and from work and shops etc but as i say at the minute the t25 will be used everyday hence the reason of leaving the engine as is for the time being and getting it looking how i want it to.

due to the track work next year i was looking at an oil cooler, baffled sump, possible parallel fuel rails (not sure if that is needed on the newage) uprated head studs and possible conrods (not sure on the std limits).

once that is all sorted then the supporting mods, fmic, induction, injectors and turbo but unsure on what final level i want to achieve at the moment but i think other than the turbo choice / setup (litchfield new unit) the rest will need to be the same anyway i.e injector size and then decide on turbo when i know what it is i want.

so shaun fire away

Shaun

iirc the MK1 Type25 had proper rods and pistons....

I would *personally* have the engine stripped, new rings, new bearings and have the new Cosworth High Tensile headbolts and Cosworth Stopper Head Gaskets fitted. This is for reliability sake, especially for track use. I would get Tracktive Solutions to do the engine strip and freshen up and get it made to high compression at the same time.

Of course, you do not have to do any of this..... but with the mileage yours has done, I would be concerned about the head gaskets, especially since you will be looking at running more boost. Block integrity would also be worth checking.

Baffled sump and good oil cooler, as you suggest.

Parrallel fuel rails are not a must at this level..... but a good idea.

You would also be advised to think about your fuel system, if you are going to be using it hard on track (i.e. swirl pot / external pump etc).

Turbo... either Iain's new Twinscroll or AET's GT30 drop in.

What sort of potential budget have you got in mind, as it can get quite costly!

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

thanks shaun,

as far as i can find out the mk1 only had a piston upgrade so the rods and studs would need doing but i may be wrong. will also look into the head gasket.

i had not thought about the fuel system, so thanks, would a bosh 044 or walbro 300 pump be enough or do you really need a swirl pot / external pump as i have never gone into that before?

i think as it is a litchfield car i will stick with one of their new units as to keep in house so to speak.

as for the fmic what make / model would you suggest as i have only used hybrids before and they are cost effective at £330 or would you suggest a hyperflow or APS at £1300?

and induction kits, what are the best option for newage cars?

lastly as for the budget i have not set one, as i dont have one. it will be done over time as and when money is avalible. dont get me wrong it is not an endless supply and i do not want to be buying things i dont need and at the same time i dont want to spend money on parts that are cost the earth as you are paying for a brand name if that makes sense. if a part is needed and it is the best for the job then it will get put on but if there is something that has given proven results and is as good but for a third of the cost then thats what i will more likely buy so the difference in cost can go on the next thing required.

for example the whole fmic debate are the hyper flows at £1300 that much better than the hybrids at almost a £1000 less?

will i actualy see any performance gains lower charge temps etc by soending the extra £1000 as if not the difference would see me an oil cooler and baffeld sump for example which imo (as is now) money better spent on all three things rather than just the fmic, unless i have it wrong and they are better. if you follow my train of thought so any advice and pointers would be great

steve

Shaun

OK.... if it is the piston upgrade only, then you will need to change the rods unless you limit the rpm. Your choice.

A 044 can be inserted in to the tank. Again, your choice. Don't forget, it is not just about flow.... surge can be a problem on track. A swirl pot is the only way (without going with a bag tank) to achieve that reliably afaik.

Inlet.... I would use something like a Hyperflow inner wing pipe and then bang the largest K&N cone on the end, that will fit in the wing and duct to suit. I found the hyperflow filter is restrictive above certain levels of required airflow vs required bhp. 400-450bhp and the Hyperflow filter will suffice. Anything more, then a bigger filter is required imo.

As regards to money and how you do this.... I would do it once and do it right. Especially if you are using it on track. Things can go horribly wrong when this type of use is realised..... especially if you pushing it.

FMIC.... your choice and your money. I know the Hyperflow kit works well for the set-up I have. Does it work any better than a cheaper brand for the set-up you want... I do not know. Unless someone has tested stuff back to back in an unbiased manner, you will never know. Maybe they are just as good... I am unable to comment.

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

yeah as far as i can make out it was just the piston upgrade. so what rods would you suggest?

so if i go for a 044 and the swirl pot i should be ok?

i will stick with the larger k&n just to be on the safe side.

thanks for the advice on the fmic, getting mixed opinions to be honest but from what i can make out its not from any hard proof more just what people have chosen to have fitted.

i agree with the money thing, thats why i have not really set a budget in mind, just want to get it done bit by bit and get the right parts from the off. obviously some bits will go hand in hand whee others can be fitted by on thier own so i will be starting with the internals of the engine first along with the sump and oil cooler, then onto the rest as and when. so to start with what make and model of internal parts would you suggest that i need

rods, studs etc and what size and make oil cooler

thanks

TimH

iTrader: (11)

FMIC - I spent a long time researching this and, like you, could not find anything other than anecdotal evidence. I did speak to my engine builder (Len at S4U) and also mapper (JGM). The consensus was that the hybrid works well but pipework and route of it not wonderful, theAPS ones are good but expensive, and autobahn stuff is good when on a budget.

In the end I bought a DR725 from the US (cost me just shy of £1000) as that has a good reputation. Not fitted yet, but I know 2 people with similar builds to mine and the DR725, and they perform very well with minimal lag.

The Hyperflow mMnster also had very good press. Iain recommends this I believe...but it might have been you who told me that Steve

In the end I got the APS as it a) had a good reputation and b) I could get it cheaper than the Hyperflow.

YMMV

stevie1982

iTrader: (16)

hardest thing i have found with any year is the fmic tmic arguement and which fmic to go for as some say the hybrid will do what a aps / hyperflow can but for a third of the money. although it would be great to see a like for like on the same car same mods and see how each perform,

just looking at all the options at the minute as i have plenty of time

Shaun

Stevie,
I had the original Spec C fuel pump in the tank as a lift pump, which was changed recently for a Walbro pump as the OE one started to get a bit noisy, so was changed for safety. This is then linked to the swirl pot and external 044. For my power level this set-up is fine and I have never had any fuel surge, regardless of how little fuel is in the tank. BUT... you would be better placed to discuss this with whoever is rebuilding the engine imo. There are other ways to do this, without the need for an external swirl pot etc.... but I am on the understanding they are not as good. External swirl pots and pumps require aeroquip and connectors, if you are doing this properly. This costs a lot of money. I have only gone aeroquip back on to my original fuel lines at the back and then aeroquip from lines in the engine bay to FPR and Rails. Be sure to get teflon coated aeroquip, if you intend in having external pot and pump in the boot. If you do not, the car will smell of fuel when left stationary.... it soon clears though when driving.

There are many makes of rods... I have Cosworth ones. Assuming the pistons are good, I suspect they can be left. News set of rings, new set of small and big end bearings (I use Cosworth). Ensure the block/cylinder integrity is checked and that the bottom end does not need line boring for crank. Hone the bores and have block and head facings prepped for new head gaskets. Go high compression! Use the latest Cosworth Stopper Headgaskets and the latest 11mm High Tensile Cosworth Head Bolts. Job done! Ooooo, and change the oil pump for the latest high flow Cosworth one if you can afford it (I would recommend this). Not sure if the oil pump on the MK1 was modified, or OE. If it is OE, then change it!

Oil cooler..... I use the OE Spec C one still, although it has been relocated. I really need to think about a bigger aftermarket one, so have no real information to give you on this based on personal experience of what to get.... I will soon though!

Shaun

BTW... Litchfield Imports are your friend for anything Cosworth or Forge Motorsport (Swirl Pot or anything else alloy fabricated) related.