zippyscoob

Hi,

I have a type R with tein spring on right now handles quite well but would like the car to be a bit stiffer and cancel out as much roll as possible what ARB combination would you suggest.

Im uprating the drops links but not sure what to go for do i go 22mm rear 22mm front of 24mm rear 22mm front or just do rear 22mm

Really dont know what is best, car is being used for fast road and i might do some track work later in the summer but it should mainly be fast road focused

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

i have 24 front and rear set up by RCM fronts on soft and rear is on hard. turn in is amazing with a good geo setup

Shaun

24mm on front and rear (and arb on HARD)!!! You sure?

Is the Classic chassis that bad?

If I stuck my rear 24mm ARB to hard I would end up killing myself.

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

hawkeye wrx maybe fronts on the middle but the rear is def on the hard setting. alk also help turn in.

what are you using 22 on the front ?

vindaloo

Careful now, you're not comparing apples with apples. World of difference between a Classic Type R and a Hawkeye.

For Classic, assuming road use, try 22mm adjustable rear for starters. After that try camber/castor adjustable front top mounts from NOLTEC etc.

Then spend the extra time getting it setup right.

J.

Shaun

F1 CJE UK,
Standard ARB front and 24mm (on soft) rear.

Having a softer set-up will achieve sharper initial turn in..... but it's holding the line that you want.

If RCM spec'd and set all this up for you, then I assume it must work, based on their track record.

53

iTrader: (41)

My Classic...

24mm rear - set Middle.
22mm front - Set Soft

Spot on

Consider that your type R can be more rear biased with the diff control.

MY06 STi with Yaw Sensor

22mm front - set hard (25)
25mm rear - set hard (27)

I love the hard ride and due to the auto diff setting you get all the benefits of reduced roll without (so far) massively induced oversteer as the sensor throws power rear to front should you over do it.

It's a work in progress but fun messing about.

The other thing I have noticed is replacing ball jointed drop links with solid types reduces unwanted (IMHO) lateral movement and 'jiggling' experienced so far with my Spec D.

172sport

iTrader: (6)

22 fr and 25 rr both on softest

F1 CJE UK

iTrader: (8)

sorry didnt read fact it was a type r.

greatgonzo

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to high jack the thread but i was thinking of messing with the suspension a little on my spec D, Im no expert with this sort of thing but I was thinking solid rear drop links with new bushes for the arb for starters, I was also hoping it might get rid of a little clonk i get sometimes over pot holes as well as up grading a few parts, what do you think

mit

iTrader: (10)

Good thing about adjustable bars is you can play and see what suits you.
I have 24R on middle, 22F on hard and love it.

Shaun

You can see what you want, but you can't get around the physics of what these affect the dynamics of the vehicle. Regardless if whether you "like it", the car might handle like a piece of **** if not done correctly.

53

iTrader: (41)

Step in the right direction IMHO, as for the clonk ?