Modify UK Turbo, or Buy Newage Sti?
#1
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Modify UK Turbo, or Buy Newage Sti?
Hi all
I've been getting a craving for another Impreza. I was browsing the classifieds yesterday and spotted a few PPP'd 03/04 ish UK Stis. I even phoned my insurer for a quote to see if it would be feasible, so I'm definetly serious.
Today though, I've also been thinking about maybe buying a mint MY99/00 UK Turbo and just modifying it with suspension goodies, a panel filter, pump, exhaust, and remap. This option seems great because I was pretty attached to the Terzo I owned, and had some great times with it...and in it .
But am I looking back with rose tinted glasses? Do I really want to modify a UK Turbo to circa 280bhp and then put up with not being able to use it properly due to the weak drivetrain etc, when I could have a car with 300bhp and a bulletproof drivetrain for a few thousand pounds more?
Looking for any opinions, so they're all welcome!
I've been getting a craving for another Impreza. I was browsing the classifieds yesterday and spotted a few PPP'd 03/04 ish UK Stis. I even phoned my insurer for a quote to see if it would be feasible, so I'm definetly serious.
Today though, I've also been thinking about maybe buying a mint MY99/00 UK Turbo and just modifying it with suspension goodies, a panel filter, pump, exhaust, and remap. This option seems great because I was pretty attached to the Terzo I owned, and had some great times with it...and in it .
But am I looking back with rose tinted glasses? Do I really want to modify a UK Turbo to circa 280bhp and then put up with not being able to use it properly due to the weak drivetrain etc, when I could have a car with 300bhp and a bulletproof drivetrain for a few thousand pounds more?
Looking for any opinions, so they're all welcome!
#5
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Classic Sti is out of the question due to high insurance premiums. Believe it or not, all the quotes I've had have been sensible for a UK Sti, and ridiculous for an old import. I'm just approaching 22, so imports are a no no.
#6
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About 9K at a push. I still want money there to run it with should something go badly wrong, and there are other things I want to spend my money on(work/career related).
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#8
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Obviously this is the reason I was considering a UK Turbo. The whole thing would cost less, and leave me with more extra cash there should I need it.
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Darc don't take this the wrong way mate but i'm suprised you got that much power from your car with those mods!
My 96WRX was pushing it at 320 with the same mods but with an uprated fuel pressure reg. and an uprated MAP sensor.
My 96WRX was pushing it at 320 with the same mods but with an uprated fuel pressure reg. and an uprated MAP sensor.
#14
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I would be paying £1600 fully comprehensive if I bought a PPP UK Sti. Not bad considering that a year or so ago I paid £1700 to insure my Terzo TPFT!
The good thing is I've got a clean license, 4 years no claims, live in a good area, and have previous experience with the Terzo.
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Oh righty I think mine was pushing 100% duty on the TD05 at 320 that's all..thought yours might have been a hybrid? How's everything coping with that power? Gearbox etc..i'm after 300 in mine now but will have to get a TD05.
#17
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With the prices of some mint UK classics just now, you could have bought and built your car for half your budget mate.
I have had four Classic UK Turbos and a Hawkeye STi and the more I think about it, the more I realise that the Classics were more fun in the twisty stuff.. and IMO a 99/00 model still looks pretty sharp with the crystal lights, revised bumpers etc.
The Blob STi undoubtedly would be a more reliable base to modify, you can pretty much bolt on 400bhp and not worry too much about major components going boom.. thats NOT something you could do on any Classic model IMO.
However, a 270/270 UK Classic would be very punchy and in the real world on a proper twisty backroad wouldn't be made to look silly against the above STi running c400bhp.. although throw in a few straight sections and you might have your work cut out to keep him in sight though.
Cheers,
Grant
I have had four Classic UK Turbos and a Hawkeye STi and the more I think about it, the more I realise that the Classics were more fun in the twisty stuff.. and IMO a 99/00 model still looks pretty sharp with the crystal lights, revised bumpers etc.
The Blob STi undoubtedly would be a more reliable base to modify, you can pretty much bolt on 400bhp and not worry too much about major components going boom.. thats NOT something you could do on any Classic model IMO.
However, a 270/270 UK Classic would be very punchy and in the real world on a proper twisty backroad wouldn't be made to look silly against the above STi running c400bhp.. although throw in a few straight sections and you might have your work cut out to keep him in sight though.
Cheers,
Grant
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Go for the newage STI its just a better all round car over a classic UK turbo tbh, nicer to drive, quicker, better gearbox/steering etc (feel as well as strength) and the improvements where they were needed (brakes especially).
8k will get you a nice one i think
Tony
8k will get you a nice one i think
Tony
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Numerous other problems too including heater matrix failure and routine suspension failure including rear top mounts snapping.
Safely back in a reliable classic now. Better car all round for me to be honest. I think you now know my opinion
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You had a one off problem, now all classic UK turbo's suffered from, gearbox issues, clutch issues, engine issues, leaking issues (water ingress) soggy steering, crap brakes (do you wish me to continue with the rest of the car or is that enough for you?)
Tony
Tony
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Oh and I have owned 4 classics completing over 300K in them combined. No dead engines, gearboxes or any of the other things you choose to write. Not saying some don't have those problems, but they are in my opinion a way better built car than the blobeyes and a lot of problems only arise by messing with them.
#24
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If insurance is an issue perhaps look at a Type RA - they are insured as a WRX which is basically what they are but lower geared and a different turbo.
You'll get STI performance for WRX insurance costs.
You'll get STI performance for WRX insurance costs.
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Try Gary @ Keith Michaels, or someone at the Thatcham branch of A-plan (Grey Import Car Insurance Quote.) if you havent' already.
There's always the P1 itself, of course, which offers the best of all worlds (STI spec, UK model) - but good, reasonably priced ones are hard to find.
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i run a uk classic also a terzo #282 which has 170,000miles runs 326/310 about as far as i was advised to go with a ty752 box . so i consontrated on making the car handle and stop.
i fitted eibach pro street coilovers ,eibach anti roll bars, polybush kit (dont mind servicing it and the extra noise) powerflex droplinks, strut braces ,perrin stout mounts , whiteline alk, roll centre adjustment kits ,steering rack bushes and a few other bits and pieces
braking is took care of by k-sport 8pot brakes 330mm discs and 2pot subaru calipers,290mm discs, goodridge hoses and 5.1 fliud.it stops and turns as good as i will ever need and friends with newage cars say the same
classics are reliable as long as they are looked after and are mapped properly. i had an apexi power fc fitted and mapped by zen performance over 40,000 miles running the above power no issues at all . its all down to personnel preferance drive both back to back if you can get chance and see which you prefer
i fitted eibach pro street coilovers ,eibach anti roll bars, polybush kit (dont mind servicing it and the extra noise) powerflex droplinks, strut braces ,perrin stout mounts , whiteline alk, roll centre adjustment kits ,steering rack bushes and a few other bits and pieces
braking is took care of by k-sport 8pot brakes 330mm discs and 2pot subaru calipers,290mm discs, goodridge hoses and 5.1 fliud.it stops and turns as good as i will ever need and friends with newage cars say the same
classics are reliable as long as they are looked after and are mapped properly. i had an apexi power fc fitted and mapped by zen performance over 40,000 miles running the above power no issues at all . its all down to personnel preferance drive both back to back if you can get chance and see which you prefer
Last edited by mr terzo; 05 May 2009 at 02:07 PM.
#27
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I also agree that the Classics I've owned drove nicer than my Hawkeye STi which felt edgy and hard to balance on the throttle round corners. Also, they are severely stiff (which is a good/bad thing) driving around on the Great British roads which can become really tiresome if you're just trying to make general progress from A to B and arent in the mood to play.
I agree that the interior of a Classic isn't as well built as the newage cars for definite... but if we're honest, the Newages are hardly the last word in fit and finish!!
Sounds like a sensible idea to get back into a good Classic if you're planning to use some of the remaining cash available for work/career... then in a few years time you can go out and treat yourself to one of the lovely new STi Hatchbacks.
Cheers,
Grant
I agree that the interior of a Classic isn't as well built as the newage cars for definite... but if we're honest, the Newages are hardly the last word in fit and finish!!
Sounds like a sensible idea to get back into a good Classic if you're planning to use some of the remaining cash available for work/career... then in a few years time you can go out and treat yourself to one of the lovely new STi Hatchbacks.
Cheers,
Grant
#28
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I also agree that the Classics I've owned drove nicer than my Hawkeye STi which felt edgy and hard to balance on the throttle round corners. Also, they are severely stiff (which is a good/bad thing) driving around on the Great British roads which can become really tiresome if you're just trying to make general progress from A to B and arent in the mood to play.
I agree that the interior of a Classic isn't as well built as the newage cars for definite... but if we're honest, the Newages are hardly the last word in fit and finish!!
Sounds like a sensible idea to get back into a good Classic if you're planning to use some of the remaining cash available for work/career... then in a few years time you can go out and treat yourself to one of the lovely new STi Hatchbacks.
Cheers,
Grant
I agree that the interior of a Classic isn't as well built as the newage cars for definite... but if we're honest, the Newages are hardly the last word in fit and finish!!
Sounds like a sensible idea to get back into a good Classic if you're planning to use some of the remaining cash available for work/career... then in a few years time you can go out and treat yourself to one of the lovely new STi Hatchbacks.
Cheers,
Grant
Right, these replies have given me a lot to think about. But given the fact I like tinkering about with my cars, and all the other reasons mentioned above, the Classic is seeming like a better option for me. Also, I hate running cars like this on a tight budget, so the UK Turbo seems ideal.
I'll keep this thread updated...I've already spotted a nice standard, low mileage, MY2000 UK Turbo in the classifieds that I like the look of!
#29
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Ahhh, one more thing about the 99/00 UK Turbos...
How bad is the MAF issue? I don't really want to be replacing it every 6 months! The MAF went in my Terzo, but I understand that when the one in the facelifted cars goes, the result can be engine failure. So would a Simtek ECU be necessary?
How bad is the MAF issue? I don't really want to be replacing it every 6 months! The MAF went in my Terzo, but I understand that when the one in the facelifted cars goes, the result can be engine failure. So would a Simtek ECU be necessary?
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I wouldn't go so far as to say 'necessary'. Desirable, perhaps - though there are those who reckon the Simtek isn't without problems of its own.
I have an EcuTek Delta Dash, which is a data logging device that can be used to monitor and record the outputs from all the engine's sensors. I plan to use it to keep an eye on my MAF once a month or so, to spot when its output starts to drift from where it should be. That way I'll get some advance warning of impending failure and should be able to replace it before it causes further damage.
I have an EcuTek Delta Dash, which is a data logging device that can be used to monitor and record the outputs from all the engine's sensors. I plan to use it to keep an eye on my MAF once a month or so, to spot when its output starts to drift from where it should be. That way I'll get some advance warning of impending failure and should be able to replace it before it causes further damage.