chris-boris

iTrader: (7)

Hi

I have just bought a version 4 type r to replace my current uk turbo and have a small list of upgrades to carry out.

My current impreza is running around 280bhp with the following mods:
apexi power fc + commander mapped by jgm
autobahn 88 FMIC
pipercross (i think) induction kit
greddy boost controller with hi and low settings
hks ssqv
full de-cat exhaust
various prosport gauges
k-sport 8 pot brake kit on the front
rays 17inch te37 alloys

I will be keeping the following items:
apexi power fc + commander mapped by jgm
various prosport gauges
k-sport 8 pot brake kit on the front
rays 17inch te37 alloys
de-cat downpipe

I want to add a few mods to the new car but am not sure if i want to fit the mods im keeping as i want the best i can afford. I am definately keeping the wheels and brakes though. I will have a few bits for sale once i start modifying so keep your eyes peeled on the for sale section!

I would like some advice on the ecu and exhaust and air filter/induction kit as i feel this would be a good place to start with the mods.

I am considering a simtek ecu with antilag and launch control but is there a better choice out there? I will be using jgm but dont know if there is a better option i am not aware of. What are your thoughts?

For the exhaust i would like a Roger Clark Team Ice BUT dont want to have to change parts everytime an MOT is due. Do they do a downpipe that will pass the emmissions test but without restricting power / airflow / noise too much? Whilst im having all this work done would it be a good idea to get headers and up pipe as well? If so, which ones and why?

The last thing on the list is induction. Im totally open to suggestions here lol Would a cold air intake in the wing be the best option?

I would like to fit a FMIC at some point in the future so would need this to fit around whatever mods you suggest.

Is there anything i have missed, can you suggest something different that would suit me better?

All help and advice greatly appreciated, many thanks
Chris

chris-boris

iTrader: (7)

anyone???

matt the gun

hi cris im a scooby net virgin and yr my 1st date. you seem to be in the know just a quick question can you tell me what is better the tdo5h or the vf22 turbo thinking of swapping from 22 to tdo5

chris-boris

iTrader: (7)

good thread on turbo's can be found here and a general upgrades thread found here

RBGUS

iTrader: (7)

You could fit a 100 cel cat downpipe,not the cheapest item tho.
Impreza Turbo 1993-2000 Classic : Subaru Impreza Ninja Downpipe with Fast Flow 100 Cell Sports Cat

JayZetec

iTrader: (1)

If your going for a front mount HKS reloaded air filter tested and proven as best, if not stick with HKS panel filter. Not sure about ecu's but I use the Apexi with commander in my V4 Type-R, but im not after Turbo depends on what power figure your aiming for, I'm using a ported 20g TD04 running 1.4 bar at about 360bhp. You'll want an uprated Walbro fuel pump and possibly bigger injectors. Then theres bits like the actuator and fuel pressure regulator.
Hope this helps mate

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

The HKS filter for the lack of a better word is s**t, it flows well but provides very little filteration and will ultimately kill the maf. I would go for either the apexi or k&n as they provide good flow and filteration.

Banny

rossi_p

iTrader: (26)

As per Banny - HKS is pants. I have a K&N from RCM no my V4 Type R.

I'd bin the Autobahn fmic and get a Hybrid - speak to Harvey.

I'd recommend doing the parallel fuel mod (again speak to Harvey about providing the push on fittings and pieces). This can be done cheaply (can also be done at high cost if you go for billet rails and anodised fittings) and a worth while mod. Add the Fuelab fpr and Walbro pump to finish your fuel setup.

Headers - Harvey is your man again for his ported headers. Definitely worth having them wrapped or ceramic coated.

AFAIK I don't think RCM do a sports CAT (at least I don't remember seeing one on their online shop).

If you want to change ECU, Simtek is a decent option. Lots of options out there but are expensive... Motec, Autronic and Solaris all coming highly recommended but all cost more than the Simtek. I'm sure Simon would be best to advise if you have used him before.

Why do you want to change from the Apexi? Going MAFless?

chris-boris

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for all your input so far

I am still after opinions on ecu though. The apexi power fc and commander is definitely going as i was launch control and anti lag which the apexi cant do.

I have no power goal in my mind i just want to get a boost in performance before i spend out on handling. I already have the big brakes so stopping wont be a problem, and after the first round of mods i will concentrate on geometry and making it get round corners quicker but thats the second phase.

What about headers and up pipe? Would i be better to spend money on fuel pump and injectors?

I would guess i have around 2-2.5k to spend on the thing including labour so fire away with suggestions!!!

My thoughts on that are as follows:
Simtek ecu with antilag and launch control - £895 + £150
RCM Team Ice full exhaust with 100cell cat downpipe - £1,100
Cold Air Induction kit (undecided on brand yet) - £100
Labour for awkward bits i cant do myself - £200
TOTAL = £2,445

What do you think / what would you change and more importantly why?

Thanks again
Chris

chris-boris

iTrader: (7)

Point taken and will follow your advice - thank you

Already done, the FMIC is going with the car for that exact reason. Wont get the new Hybrid FMIC till a little way down the line though.

I had not thought of this. What benefits does it offer over the standard ver 4 type r setup and what is the rough cost involved of doing this to withstand, for example, 450bhp? (im not going for that amount of bhp for a little while but if changing something why not do it properly for the future )

I can see a pattern emerging here lol will go have a look round Harvey's website and see what i can find out

This is why i asked on here as i could not see one on their site either. The link provided by RBGUS is the kind of thing i am after but would need to be compatible with the team ice centre and tail sections.

This is what i thought. Simtek it is then

MAFless would be nice as it eliminates one supposed weak point. Also, i want antilag which the apexi cant do

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

this is a good thread

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

The maf is not a weak point on the v3/4 cars only on the later v5/6 cars. The v3/4 maf will work up to around 460bhp, but if you really want ALS then yes it is worth going for the simtek.

Banny

rossi_p

iTrader: (26)

As I understand it, the standard setup causes uneven fuel delivery into the cylinders. Number three is at the end and has a lower fuel pressure than the others and can cause det from running lean. Parallel delivery feeds both sides and overcomes this problem.

It can cost as little as £50 (possibly less) with some adaptors, couple of brass t-pieces and rubber hose. Whether this is a 'must have' mod is debatable, but for the sake of a few quid, I would certainly do it/have it done for piece of mind.

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

Agree with rossi it is worthwhile doing for peace of mind, even though you can map a little extra fuel to number 3 injector to stop it running lean.

Then there are other cooling mods you can do like inlet manifold spacers, spacing the header tank of the inlet manifold and cooler temp thermostat.

Banny

scoobyc

iTrader: (2)

Hmm. more on this parrellel fuel mod? Any links to what to buy/users guide? My car gets fast weekend and track use, so anything to stop potential engine failure will be useful. 50 quid seems reasonable.

So what are the drawbacks of having the maff/having a simtek? I have v4 also, should i save 300 quid and go for the apexi if i dont want als/lc? How do induction kits with with the MAF?

timmy2take

iTrader: (7)

I think they're doing sports cats in the group buy section for £149

harvey

iTrader: (48)

I have your PM.
£2500 will not go far so you need to choose wisely and for the power level you will go to on standard internals you need to restrict expenditure to essentials. You may come across some quality secondhand parts at reasonable cost.
Your modifications have to work together so a bit from here and a bit from there may not result in "joined up" tuning. Just like advice. A bit here and a bit there and randomly picking the bits you go with results in less than optimum tuning.
An STi 4 Type R can get to around 330 bhp for not a lot of money.
I assume the engine is in good condition with standard turbo, ECU, injectors and TMIC.
1) Full 3" decat exhaust. 3" open neck downpipe. Go with something with proven performance and not because of the noise it makes. If you decide to go with a CAT it will cost 10-20 bhp despite what the glossy adverts might say. If 330 bhp was your top goal then my choice would be a complete Revolution system simply because I have had good results from these in the past. If you have plans to go much further at a later stage, then a Revolution exhaust but with 3" open neck down pipe. £450. Fitted? Approx
It is worth wrapping the D/P to reduce under bonnet heat and keep heat in the system. Budget £75-£85. Wrap the D/P before it is fitted to the car if possible to avoid additional expense or effort.
Ensure your turbo still has a heat shield fitted.
2) Ported O/E headers and matched up-pipe. All heat wrapped. £369 plus £12.50 delivery or fitted for £75.
3) Walbro 341. £75 Fitted. £25.
The O/E air box is good to around 350 bhp and after market pannel filters have little or no effect on power output so stick with a clean O/E pannel filter or if you are keeping the car for a while, K+N Pannel which can be cleaned. Budget. £12-£50.

Check your car is properly serviced. NGK PFR 7B plugs new oil and fuel filter especially the fuel filter if there is no record of recent change.

Cost so far around £1200 plus service items.

Fit a quality boost guage that is accurate and has an appropriate scale. -1 bar to + 1.5 bar is suitable for standard internals. Cost with a little pod is probably £60.

You now have three options.
Cheap. This must be done with care by someone with facilities to check wideband AFRs and monitor for DET. Fit GBE valve. (Not a bleed valve) Total cost fitted and checked say £100, perhaps a little less.
If everything is checked out ok and you are running 1.4 bar you may have around 320-330 bhp. If you have less than that power level, look for what may be restraining your engine.
Alternative option. Fit an electronic boost controller with three port solenoid valve. Cost £150 plus fitting. Say £30.
Same caveats and checks as above.
More expensive option. Secondhand Apexi ECU or New Simtek. There are not many secondhand Simtek about as they are relatively new and in good demand. The Simtek is the costlier but better option. Around £1,000 fitted and mapped.
Subject to boost level the car now has potential for 340 bhp but the injectors and turbo are likely to be maxed out and these will be the factor(s) that limit further power.

Now at this point you have a quick car for a frugal budget but the air charge temperatures are out of control as the top mount intrcooler cannot cope. If you avoid wide open throttle except for burst of power your car will be OK like this until your finances recover but you need a quality proven FMIC. Hybrid GT. Cost £350 and fitting £180 or delivery for you to fit £12.50.
After fitting the FMIC a remap is required. Some people get away without a remap but at best you will NOT get optimal performance. At worst you need a new engine. So it would be best to save a little more for your project and get the FMIC fitted before the ECU and get them fitted close together.

V5RLTD

iTrader: (5)

So what you saying? Great responce harvey, i'll be ordering some bits from you very soon, just got to hide it from the mrs!

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Chris,

Have responded to your PM and then read this thread.. advice here seems bang on and I think we are all agreeing

Simon