Engine swap info required
28 January 2009, 11:33 AM
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Engine swap info required
Am about to start swaping the engine in my new age for a forged one, any tips/tricks when pullin out and replacing greatly appreciated.
CD manual makes out its arelatively straight forward job, ie 'buy rocket, go to moon' easy peasy.
cheers
Matt
CD manual makes out its arelatively straight forward job, ie 'buy rocket, go to moon' easy peasy.
cheers
Matt
28 January 2009, 11:39 AM
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Depends on what equipment you have got. I would undo the subframe and drop it along with the gearbox out through the bottom.
You can do that in a couple of hours...
You can do that in a couple of hours...
Last edited by Chris.B; 28 January 2009 at 11:40 AM.
28 January 2009, 11:39 PM
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Did mine (classic but is very similar to newage) with an engine hoist in the open air over two (short) days as it was not a straight swap. I had to transfer timing parts and manifolds from one to the other, amongst other things.
Reckon you can have the engine out in 2 hours and back in and runniing in another 4 if you drink less coffee than me, and don't have to stop and explain what you are doing to every passer by.
Quick tips
1. Remove the rad before you start, takes 5 minutes and saves lots of aggro.
2. Remove the battery then unbolt the aircon comp and lay it in the battery tray without undoing the pipework, saves the cost of recharging and the environment too.
3. Don't bother disconnecting the alternator, just unbolt it and lay it on top of the air con.
4. Remove the air box and piping. Unbolt the steering pump and lay it with it's pipework in the space vacated. Saves the steering fluid.
5. Jack the gearbox when lifting the engine, and refitting. Helps a lot.
6. Don't bother removing the bonnet, engine will clear it easily as long as the lifting strop is short as poss.
7. Don't forget to remove the clutch fulcrum pin or you will knacker the release bearing.
8. Classics only have 2 bolts and 2 studs holding the gearbox to the engine but the dowel pins stick like a b*****d if the box has not been off before. Took me near an hour and a 6 foot pry bar to eventually persuede them apart. I was convinced there was another bolt somewhere holding it together. Be prepared to use some force. Use copperslip on reassembly to prevent recurrence of this problem.
Good luck and have fun, it's a doddle. When you get back from the moon drop us a post to show how you got on, or didn't as the case may be.
Reckon you can have the engine out in 2 hours and back in and runniing in another 4 if you drink less coffee than me, and don't have to stop and explain what you are doing to every passer by.
Quick tips
1. Remove the rad before you start, takes 5 minutes and saves lots of aggro.
2. Remove the battery then unbolt the aircon comp and lay it in the battery tray without undoing the pipework, saves the cost of recharging and the environment too.
3. Don't bother disconnecting the alternator, just unbolt it and lay it on top of the air con.
4. Remove the air box and piping. Unbolt the steering pump and lay it with it's pipework in the space vacated. Saves the steering fluid.
5. Jack the gearbox when lifting the engine, and refitting. Helps a lot.
6. Don't bother removing the bonnet, engine will clear it easily as long as the lifting strop is short as poss.
7. Don't forget to remove the clutch fulcrum pin or you will knacker the release bearing.
8. Classics only have 2 bolts and 2 studs holding the gearbox to the engine but the dowel pins stick like a b*****d if the box has not been off before. Took me near an hour and a 6 foot pry bar to eventually persuede them apart. I was convinced there was another bolt somewhere holding it together. Be prepared to use some force. Use copperslip on reassembly to prevent recurrence of this problem.
Good luck and have fun, it's a doddle. When you get back from the moon drop us a post to show how you got on, or didn't as the case may be.
Last edited by his-n-her-scoobs; 28 January 2009 at 11:51 PM.
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