WRX NEEDING 330BHP
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WRX NEEDING 330BHP
Hi,
I have a wrx sitting at 286 bhp.
Decatted exhaust system(catted turbo up pipe), cold air induction kit.
I want 330 bhp, what will I need minimum to achieve this mods wise and how much do you think this will cost.
Cheers
I have a wrx sitting at 286 bhp.
Decatted exhaust system(catted turbo up pipe), cold air induction kit.
I want 330 bhp, what will I need minimum to achieve this mods wise and how much do you think this will cost.
Cheers
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#3
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Andy f mapped my car last time, top bloke.
Just loooking for a rough estimate.
I have heard people saying you need to uprate the intercooler and injectors for that bhp and others saying you dont.
Just need to know what I can get away with at the moment and then upgrade the other bits after
Just loooking for a rough estimate.
I have heard people saying you need to uprate the intercooler and injectors for that bhp and others saying you dont.
Just need to know what I can get away with at the moment and then upgrade the other bits after
#6
Yep, turbo, injectors, fuel pump and remap I reckon.
Of course you should really then upgrade your brakes from 4 pots, and then you'll want to do some handling mods etc. etc.
HTH
Wes
Of course you should really then upgrade your brakes from 4 pots, and then you'll want to do some handling mods etc. etc.
HTH
Wes
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01-05 WRX 2.0 UK/EURO STD 218/225 BHP
Level 1 260-280 bhp
Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore
Ecutek Custom ECU recalibration (similar to PPP)
Twin boost set up for high/low power switchable in-car
Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump
K+N panel filter
Level 2 290-310 bhp
Full Decat or Sportscat exhaust from turbo back 2.5 or 3” bore.
Decat uppipe Pre turbo
Walbro 255 l/hr uprated fuel pump
K+N panel filter
Ecutek Custom ECU recalibration
Twin boost set up for high/low power switchable in-car
AFP 04-H custom ported hybrid turbo
High Flow multi spray fuel injectors 550cc (380cc as std)
Uprated turbo to intercooler 'Y' pipe
NGK PFR 7B uprated spark plugs
Level 2(a) 300-320 bhp
Substitute VF34/35 or TD05-16G turbo in place of AFP04H for additional 10-20bhp but with slightly later turbo spool up.
AndyForrestPerformance
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Andy f mapped my car last time, top bloke.
Just loooking for a rough estimate.
I have heard people saying you need to uprate the intercooler and injectors for that bhp and others saying you dont.
Just need to know what I can get away with at the moment and then upgrade the other bits after
Just loooking for a rough estimate.
I have heard people saying you need to uprate the intercooler and injectors for that bhp and others saying you dont.
Just need to know what I can get away with at the moment and then upgrade the other bits after
Last edited by Black-Hawk; 26 October 2008 at 11:25 AM.
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Believe me, once you go over 300 you'll need much better brakes and I mean a decent kit, not just better pads/disc's and hoses..
If you don't there's no point in going for more power, as you can't confidently use it..
However, this will cost as much as the mods to get you over 300. If it was me and I could only afford to do one or the other I'd spend the money on the brakes, as this will make your car a much faster 'package'..
Also, rear ARB and DL's, although IMHO any scoob owner should be running these as a matter of course, given the low cost and ease of diy fitment for the huge increase in handling..
If you don't there's no point in going for more power, as you can't confidently use it..
However, this will cost as much as the mods to get you over 300. If it was me and I could only afford to do one or the other I'd spend the money on the brakes, as this will make your car a much faster 'package'..
Also, rear ARB and DL's, although IMHO any scoob owner should be running these as a matter of course, given the low cost and ease of diy fitment for the huge increase in handling..
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i'm on the same sort of spec that your on, i've got currently sitting at home a sti top mount, a decat up-pipe and an uprated fuel pump... im waiting on delivery of some sti pink injectors, but i'm desperate for a vf34 at a reasonable price
then a trip back to JGM
wiley
then a trip back to JGM
wiley
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You don't mention having done this, but doing some mild 'porting' of your headers/up-pipe and turbo hot side (vital for a VF35) will help quite a lot (a cheap diy mod) as well exhaust wrap and a turbo jacket..
It's often the little things that make the biggest difference and quite often get over-looked
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IMHO the VF35 is better (or at least value for money wise). There's very little in performance. 35 is slightly better response, 34 slightly top end.
A ported VF35 with right mods can be good for 350..
A ported VF35 with right mods can be good for 350..
#18
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Believe me, once you go over 300 you'll need much better brakes and I mean a decent kit, not just better pads/disc's and hoses..
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So you recon the subaru 4 pots are up to that sort of power/weight in a newage..?!! Have you ever tried them..?
I think if you're looking for a car with 300bhp it's clear what you want from it..! Unless you're just after bragging points down the pub..
I think if you're looking for a car with 300bhp it's clear what you want from it..! Unless you're just after bragging points down the pub..
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I personaly find the wrx 4pots up to the job, near as makes no differance as much bite power as the sti brembos and hav'nt drive it hard enough for long enough to have noticed fade.
#22
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So you recon the subaru 4 pots are up to that sort of power/weight in a newage..?!! Have you ever tried them..?
I think if you're looking for a car with 300bhp it's clear what you want from it..! Unless you're just after bragging points down the pub..
I think if you're looking for a car with 300bhp it's clear what you want from it..! Unless you're just after bragging points down the pub..
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I agree.
I know my wrx handling limits.........but the thrill of a whining turbo is just priority right now!
I know my wrx handling limits.........but the thrill of a whining turbo is just priority right now!
Last edited by 290 AND READY; 29 October 2008 at 02:04 AM. Reason: spelling!
#24
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I would have no problem running in excess of 400 bhp (or even 500bhp) on the std brakes. Like i say - it all depends on what you want from a car. Don't assume that we all want the same as you! All that ever interested me when i had my scoob (313/300) was the rush of power coming off roundabouts, out or corners and overtaking other cars. The road isn't a race track so hammering into corners and braking at the last second ain't my bag In 6 years of owning my Scoob, i probably only ever suffered brake fade on 2 or 3 occasions so Brembo's or similar would be a complete waste of cash for a driver like me.
#25
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lol, spool on vf35 and 34 is pretty much teh same when set up correctly, the vf34 tends to get a few extra horses though.
theres no doubts its more expensive though, but thats the downside
theres no doubts its more expensive though, but thats the downside
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I would have no problem running in excess of 400 bhp (or even 500bhp) on the std brakes. Like i say - it all depends on what you want from a car. Don't assume that we all want the same as you! All that ever interested me when i had my scoob (313/300) was the rush of power coming off roundabouts, out or corners and overtaking other cars. The road isn't a race track so hammering into corners and braking at the last second ain't my bag In 6 years of owning my Scoob, i probably only ever suffered brake fade on 2 or 3 occasions so Brembo's or similar would be a complete waste of cash for a driver like me.
If you do a search it's quite common amongst 300+ wrx owners who get this during 'normal' braking situations..
TBH unless you've compared wrx brakes (or sti for that matter) to say an AP kit you can't really comment, as the difference is night and day, even during everyday driving..!
That's why I think that the £1500 I spent on my AP's to be the single best mod for money. Even if it's also the most costly mod I've done..!
Lol, you could also argue that 'for the road' ****e handling is adequate, especially if your 'thing' is purely acceleration..!
I prefer a more rounded package, removing the weak links where possible, not exacerbating them by purely upping the power from the engine. You never know, you might still have the scoob if you'd improved the brakes
I'm just trying help someone improve their scoob based on my experience, but as you say each to their own..
#27
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Don't dismiss a VF35 if one comes along..
You don't mention having done this, but doing some mild 'porting' of your headers/up-pipe and turbo hot side (vital for a VF35) will help quite a lot (a cheap diy mod) as well exhaust wrap and a turbo jacket..
It's often the little things that make the biggest difference and quite often get over-looked
You don't mention having done this, but doing some mild 'porting' of your headers/up-pipe and turbo hot side (vital for a VF35) will help quite a lot (a cheap diy mod) as well exhaust wrap and a turbo jacket..
It's often the little things that make the biggest difference and quite often get over-looked
#28
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If you're currently running a VF35 without issues then there's probably no advantage to porting it.
The main reason is to prevent 'surge', which can be a problem due to the smaller P15 exh housing on the 35, compared to the P18 on the 34. Incidentally, this is also the reason the 35 has better low down response compared to the 34 (smaller turbine wheel spins up quicker).
All the porting does is open up the waste-gate very slightly, which is all that's needed to alleviate any potential surging (very easy do diy if you're half handy..). I also 'ported' the exh. housing, smoothing out any roughness in the casting, as you would when 'porting' cast oem headers.
It's one of those little things you can do before a remap, that may help your mapper extract that little bit more, every mickle makes a muckle, as they say..
Not worth doing after, unless it's a problem to start with IMHO..
Take a look back at 'Floyds economy' project from a few years ago, as there was an excellent picture led guide to porting amoungst other things..
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...ml#post4433659
The main reason is to prevent 'surge', which can be a problem due to the smaller P15 exh housing on the 35, compared to the P18 on the 34. Incidentally, this is also the reason the 35 has better low down response compared to the 34 (smaller turbine wheel spins up quicker).
All the porting does is open up the waste-gate very slightly, which is all that's needed to alleviate any potential surging (very easy do diy if you're half handy..). I also 'ported' the exh. housing, smoothing out any roughness in the casting, as you would when 'porting' cast oem headers.
It's one of those little things you can do before a remap, that may help your mapper extract that little bit more, every mickle makes a muckle, as they say..
Not worth doing after, unless it's a problem to start with IMHO..
Take a look back at 'Floyds economy' project from a few years ago, as there was an excellent picture led guide to porting amoungst other things..
https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...ml#post4433659
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As said I dont thump my car hard enough to fade the brakes all the time.