antony z

im converting brakes from 2 pot to 4 pot calipers, im having trouble bleeding the breaks, any help would be appreciated
cheers

bluenosewrx

iTrader: (2)

You mean brakes!!!!

Mac

scoobjam74

iTrader: (11)

it should be easy mate just start with the pasenger side if you havent got a brake bleeding kit u need a spare pare of hands noy keep the res toped up as you do it ,you need to pump the pedal then while holding the pedal down the other person undose the nipple slowly your pedal will go down to the floor when is does he then closes the nipple and then u release the pedal then repeat the proses till only fluid comes out no air bubbles all the time keep the reserve topped up

antony z

Yeah sorry i do mean "brakes", im new to all this computer lark.
Do you know how to do it then? its doing my head in

ulusaba1

Hi

If I remember correctly, I believe the bleeding sequence is as follows: -

1) Back passenger side
2) Front driver’s side
3) Front passenger side
4) Rear driver’s side

That’s for a newage, but I can not see it been any different for a classic.

When bleeding, open the bleed nipples on the down stroke of the brake peddle. When the brake peddle is at the bottom, close the bleed nipple and let the brake peddle back to the top. Repeat the operation until no bubbles can be seen exiting the bleed nipple.

I find it best to use a bit of clear plastic tube into a glass jar with a bit of brake fluid already in the bottom.

If you are changing all the brake fluid remember to keep the reservoir topped up, when bleeding. If you let the level drop too low, air will be dragged into the system.

Hope this helps

Paul

Butty

iTrader: (2)

Have you put the calipers on with the bleed nipples at the top?
One man bleed kits make this job very easy.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

Aren't you supposed to start with the furthest away and work your way to the nearest to the resevoir?

Woosh!

bob r is totally right.
If all else fails and air is still appearing then wedge down the pedal and leave it over night. This way any air will work it's way up and out of the system.
Worked for me with all my motorbikes and rally cars with 'split/bias systems' over the years.
If air is still getting in then a seal must be damaged or installed the wrong way round (if new seals fitted) somewhere.

Paulo P

iTrader: (42)

Nice bit of advice, I'll remember that one and try it if I have problems again. I normally bleed brakes in the manner listed above starting furthest from the master cylinder etc and the correct procedure for locking off the nipple but sometimes it just doesn't seem right.

Ian

iTrader: (10)

i think toy start with the one the bigest distance from the brake unit.

so

rear pass
rear driver
front pass
front driver

and makesure the bleed nipples are at the top

DisoDisp

iTrader: (1)

here is the correct order:



Front Right
Rear Left
Front Left
Rear Right

jdmforest

id have agreed with bob r, always start furthest away from the cylinder and work your way towards it to expel all the air,
but ive seen posts about doin scoobs different before so..........