from bugeye to classic type r
#1
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from bugeye to classic type r
hi guys i was thinking of changing my bugeye for a type r classic and just wounderd what to look out for when buying one also what bhp are thay standard and whats the brake set up like on them as iv heard thay dont have abs
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
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they dont have abs but have the dccd and can be tail happy especially in the wet with the diff open,brakes i found are shocking standard anyway get brembo's or something fitted.As they are tail happy check for damage especially rear quarter panels and boot.standard supposedly 276 bhp but mine made 317 bhp with an exhaust,walbro and 1.4 bar and i know another that made 305 with just a backbox swap,both V5's.Gearboxes are very close ratio'd and can be noisy on the motorway but do it and you will wonder what took you so long to swap *puts on flame coat to protect from other bug owners*
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Hello mate
I'm no expert,can only give advice learn't when buying mine.
Usual checks on engine eg. knocks,rattles,smoke,general condition etc.Check the IC spray works
Watch for knocks from rear legs as mine has this problem and extremely hard to diagnose offending part (any advice anyone)
Make sure you check the DCCD works on a straight piece of road.Way i did it was to drive at around 30 then wind the wheel forward till it's locked and lift your foot off the gas completely,the car should slow fairly quickly,then back to 30 and as you lift of the gas again roll the wheel fully back.Because your free-wheeling you should be able to feel the DCCD release.
Brakes are very good when you get used to them but your right no abs as theres no space to fit the pump with the DCCD.Hate abs anyway,always kickin in when you don't want it to
Standard power depending on version 280-300
Best advice i can give is buy standard and do any upgrades yourself,that way you know the background or if you do buy modded make sure all reciepts for work done are available.JMO
Good luck and happy hunting
I'm no expert,can only give advice learn't when buying mine.
Usual checks on engine eg. knocks,rattles,smoke,general condition etc.Check the IC spray works
Watch for knocks from rear legs as mine has this problem and extremely hard to diagnose offending part (any advice anyone)
Make sure you check the DCCD works on a straight piece of road.Way i did it was to drive at around 30 then wind the wheel forward till it's locked and lift your foot off the gas completely,the car should slow fairly quickly,then back to 30 and as you lift of the gas again roll the wheel fully back.Because your free-wheeling you should be able to feel the DCCD release.
Brakes are very good when you get used to them but your right no abs as theres no space to fit the pump with the DCCD.Hate abs anyway,always kickin in when you don't want it to
Standard power depending on version 280-300
Best advice i can give is buy standard and do any upgrades yourself,that way you know the background or if you do buy modded make sure all reciepts for work done are available.JMO
Good luck and happy hunting
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They do a WRX type R which does have ABS and no DCCD, or you can go for the STI version without ABS and with a DCCD
The WRX version is somewhat less common over here for some reason.....
Tony
The WRX version is somewhat less common over here for some reason.....
Tony
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Although i must say that in the 6 months previous to purchase,researching many websites and forums to gain priceless information this is the first time i've heard this.We live n learn
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#8
Ive owned my sti type R for a year now and its been faultless. Find the breaks adequate and handling top notch. Ideal car for short journeys and fun dont really enjoy long jourenys on the motorway.
If your lucky Tax will be cheap too, mine came through at £185 only cant complain but fuel consumption is shocking!
If your lucky Tax will be cheap too, mine came through at £185 only cant complain but fuel consumption is shocking!
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I bought an RA which is the Four door version and is slightly lighter but at the time I researched the typeR STI to. The is a TypeR and STi TypeR version as there is also iwith the RA but all RA's have four doors and all R's have 2.
What I did when buying mine was to look for one just off the boat as I wanted to be sure it wasn't ragged on our **** fuel for an period of time.
As soon as I got it I got it mapped. She was Standard and should 275bhp with 310 nuton meters of torque. So make sure that it's mapped.
The gearing is very close but you can live with it.
You will love the dccd.
I really loved my RA STi but got rid of it for a bug STi Prodrive that I wouldn't Change for the world.
What I did when buying mine was to look for one just off the boat as I wanted to be sure it wasn't ragged on our **** fuel for an period of time.
As soon as I got it I got it mapped. She was Standard and should 275bhp with 310 nuton meters of torque. So make sure that it's mapped.
The gearing is very close but you can live with it.
You will love the dccd.
I really loved my RA STi but got rid of it for a bug STi Prodrive that I wouldn't Change for the world.
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[QUOTE=ericsti;8037670] The is a TypeR and STi TypeR version as there is also iwith the RA but all RA's have four doors and all R's have two.
Have a read of the R & RA specification thread on the type r register, i would do a link if i knew how too!
Have a read of the R & RA specification thread on the type r register, i would do a link if i knew how too!
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Eta Tauri Site Impreza Reference - WRX Frenzy
link to model codes.
This is the list i used.
Still no wrx type r,only sti version,but i guess it doesn't necessarily mean there wasn't one.
list shows
type-r = 2 door sti
type ra = 4 door wrx & sti
Eta Tauri Site Impreza Reference - Japanese Specification
link to model codes.
This is the list i used.
Still no wrx type r,only sti version,but i guess it doesn't necessarily mean there wasn't one.
list shows
type-r = 2 door sti
type ra = 4 door wrx & sti
Eta Tauri Site Impreza Reference - Japanese Specification
Last edited by Micky Type-R; 30 July 2008 at 07:32 PM. Reason: more reading
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