congratulations........cnuts
#1
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congratulations........*****
drawn on my bonnet it black marker pen in the lowestoft area. well done, bet your big and proud. not that anyone on here would do it but needed to vent off!
now to work out how to shift it without damaging the paint work.
now to work out how to shift it without damaging the paint work.
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ive just read online about trying hairspray or one of the dry marker pens over the top which should make it come off. anyone tried these before i try?!! how about wd40?
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Glue and tar remover...or:
White spirits, turps, or meths.
Other stuff that might works is Isoproyl alcohol (tape head cleaner), or if none of teh above works: cellulose thinners definetly will (do not use if your car has had a cheap and nasty body repair).
Re-wax aftewards.
White spirits, turps, or meths.
Other stuff that might works is Isoproyl alcohol (tape head cleaner), or if none of teh above works: cellulose thinners definetly will (do not use if your car has had a cheap and nasty body repair).
Re-wax aftewards.
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Glue and tar remover...or:
White spirits, turps, or meths.
Other stuff that might works is Isoproyl alcohol (tape head cleaner), or if none of teh above works: cellulose thinners definetly will (do not use if your car has had a cheap and nasty body repair).
Re-wax aftewards.
White spirits, turps, or meths.
Other stuff that might works is Isoproyl alcohol (tape head cleaner), or if none of teh above works: cellulose thinners definetly will (do not use if your car has had a cheap and nasty body repair).
Re-wax aftewards.
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Do you want an **** answer? Ok, like it or not - your getting one
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
#10
Always use them at work when someone writes on the whiteboard or desk in permanent marker
Just write over everthing that is already there, then wipe the lot off with a soft cloth
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Do you want an **** answer? Ok, like it or not - your getting one
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
Ali I beat you again
Only your answer was much more thorough
First thing I would try is a dry wipe marker over the top, then see if it wipes off, works a treat on white boards
Failing that buy a gun find who did it and shoot them in the back of the head execution stylee
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well.....tried the dry marker which worked ok but wouldnt shift the edges of the markerpen marks. Then went with a Bug and Tar remover and that cleaned the rest up. Phew.....i dont have to do the execution stylee!! shame really, some of the ****** kids (presume thats who it was!) in lowestoft could do with it......
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Yep, I'd second that. Nothing abrasive to start off with.
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Have removed marker pen with white spirit before, just stick plenty on and leave it to soak in for a while, then wipe off, and repeat until its all gone. Much less work than polish ( although any sort of T-cut scratch remover, Autosol etc... will work ) and wont wreck the paint.
#20
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FWIW, there's the old trick with dry-wipe boards (a comparison) - if you write on a dry wipe board/surface ( ) with permanent pen, scribble over it with a dry-wipe marker and rub off!!
I was shocked but it does work
Try it on a different surface
HTH
DAn
I was shocked but it does work
Try it on a different surface
HTH
DAn
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Do you want an **** answer? Ok, like it or not - your getting one
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
In terms of car velting; yes it is polish then wax (well, clean, remove contamination, polish, then wax ). But in terms of a car already valeted; no, or at least it depends on the products used.
If you use a chemicle solution on a car that is presumably well polished, then the paintwork should not need polishing again.
Unless a resin polish is used (i.e a filler wax) on a badly matted paint surface, in which case the chemicles will remove the resin.
BTW I personally define "polish" as an abrasive compound to remove surface matting on paintwork. Unfortuately certain brands are just non-abrasive filler resins that just bling up a matted surface.
So in a nutshell: depends on what products you use to mainatain a car's bodywork.
I personally use abrasive polish, to achieve a "true" mirror finish followed by a protective wax. So if I use a chemicle cleaner, all I need is to re-wax the surface as obviously, the wax will be removed.
However, a person who uses resin polish on a well used paint surface will have to re-polish as well as re-wax
DCI at confused dot com
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Well, it made sense in my head....ok
Whats your favourite polish?
Mine is called Karolina, she'll wash and wax me car for 50p in a wet T-shirt
Whats your favourite polish?
Mine is called Karolina, she'll wash and wax me car for 50p in a wet T-shirt