Winter Preparations .....
#1
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Winter Preparations .....
I'm going to change my coolant ...... drain plug I can see, remove pressure cap and allow to drain out?
Refil with suitable Anti-Freeze/Water mix .... is that it?
I may regret asking this ..... but ..... is there any special procedure to go through with the Boxer engine to avoid airlocks? Or is it just like any other car and just allow air to escape naturally and slowly fill up?
Refil with suitable Anti-Freeze/Water mix .... is that it?
I may regret asking this ..... but ..... is there any special procedure to go through with the Boxer engine to avoid airlocks? Or is it just like any other car and just allow air to escape naturally and slowly fill up?
#4
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Surely there must be an '****' antifreeze change proceedure... perhaps the top hose needs to be squeezed (but not too hard) three and a HALF times with the engine running at idle prior to being switched off and the bottom hose detached (obviously, with the Subaru approved screwdriver) to allow the old coolant to drain out... into a Subaru approved recepticle, naturally....
Come on... take up the baton...
Come on... take up the baton...
#7
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I am, I am ...... I'm just wondering how the ***** would remove the drain plug?
Is it two turns off, one turn back, then three off, two back or five off, 3 back?? I'm all mixed up
I do know that if I get it wrong the coolant will react with number 3 cylinder, making it 2 degrees warmer than the surrounding metal thus rendering the thermal expansion rates different ...... this, in turn, makes the Oil boil and there is Big End Failure on the latter second quarter quadrant of the bearing - worse still, it has been noted by the *****, that the result of this is that the radio melts and the wing mirrors steam up - if left for long enough, the seats warm to such a dgree that you get piles and need an operation
So I MUST get it right .... there MUST be a SPECIAL way??
Is it two turns off, one turn back, then three off, two back or five off, 3 back?? I'm all mixed up
I do know that if I get it wrong the coolant will react with number 3 cylinder, making it 2 degrees warmer than the surrounding metal thus rendering the thermal expansion rates different ...... this, in turn, makes the Oil boil and there is Big End Failure on the latter second quarter quadrant of the bearing - worse still, it has been noted by the *****, that the result of this is that the radio melts and the wing mirrors steam up - if left for long enough, the seats warm to such a dgree that you get piles and need an operation
So I MUST get it right .... there MUST be a SPECIAL way??
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#9
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Come on, ***** of ScoobyNet - please tell us the 'Correct' way to change the Coolant and what Special Precautions are needed?
For example, will I have to remove the CrankSensor and Coil Packs before starting so the water pressure builds up gradually?
For example, will I have to remove the CrankSensor and Coil Packs before starting so the water pressure builds up gradually?
#10
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Here's how I do it......
Ring garage, book service, a few days later drop car off at garage on the way to work, go to work for the day, return to garage in the evening, hand over credit card, type in PIN, get credit card back + receipt, drive car home. Easy!
Much as I'd love to spend a day scrabbling around under my car getting greasy I work hard during the week so that just doesn't appeal to me at weekends. I get paid well so I may as well spread some of it around by getting someone else to get grazed knuckles changing my coolant
You obviously don't get paid as much as you tell us otherwise you wouldn't have to do your own maintenance
Ring garage, book service, a few days later drop car off at garage on the way to work, go to work for the day, return to garage in the evening, hand over credit card, type in PIN, get credit card back + receipt, drive car home. Easy!
Much as I'd love to spend a day scrabbling around under my car getting greasy I work hard during the week so that just doesn't appeal to me at weekends. I get paid well so I may as well spread some of it around by getting someone else to get grazed knuckles changing my coolant
You obviously don't get paid as much as you tell us otherwise you wouldn't have to do your own maintenance
#11
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Turn blowers to warm.. drain, flush, refil slowly, let it idle with cap off header tank till warm, let it cool down, top it up and keep an aye on it for a bit
Thats what I did! Running fine
Thats what I did! Running fine
#12
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Subaru sell their own branded coolant, but I doubt that its any different to anyone elses coolant, made to meet the same specifications. You can usually tell if an engine is prone to airlocks because the manufacturers will have installed one or more high-point air bleeds. If you want to be really ****, then you can measure what came out and what went back in too, in order to be sure.....
Simon
Simon
#15
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2. I like saving money
3. It's a simple job - unless I need to do anything special, hence this post
4. I don't earn much collecting trolleys as Morrisons
#17
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You're right about the re-sealing issue ....... mine wasn't sealed properly when done at the Subaru Dealer when 4 years ago, needed to get Subaru Assistance out!!
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OMG, I have wanted to fire some infractions at you sometimes Lewis, but whoever let that one fly has a serious misfire issue
Last edited by Luminous; 13 November 2007 at 10:22 PM.
#19
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Mate runs a garage down the road so i get good rates, but still prefer to do what i can myself.
Only take it to him if its busted and i need it fixed sharpish, but have three motors at moment so can take any one to work
#20
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You do it right if you do it yourself ..... as long as you know what you're doing, that is!
It's a good feeling when it goes well and a job has been done correctly - even an Engine Rebuild should be pretty straightforward.
A good manual (sadly Haynes do not do an Impreza) and an Engineering background is all you need .... oh, yes, and a warm, dry, environment with a 4-post lift helps hugely
It's a good feeling when it goes well and a job has been done correctly - even an Engine Rebuild should be pretty straightforward.
A good manual (sadly Haynes do not do an Impreza) and an Engineering background is all you need .... oh, yes, and a warm, dry, environment with a 4-post lift helps hugely
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You do it right if you do it yourself ..... as long as you know what you're doing, that is!
It's a good feeling when it goes well and a job has been done correctly - even an Engine Rebuild should be pretty straightforward.
A good manual (sadly Haynes do not do an Impreza) and an Engineering background is all you need .... oh, yes, and a warm, dry, environment with a 4-post lift helps hugely
It's a good feeling when it goes well and a job has been done correctly - even an Engine Rebuild should be pretty straightforward.
A good manual (sadly Haynes do not do an Impreza) and an Engineering background is all you need .... oh, yes, and a warm, dry, environment with a 4-post lift helps hugely
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