MY03WRX PPP on rollers shows its under there estimates
#1
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MY03WRX PPP on rollers shows its under there estimates
Just had rolling road run at scoobyclinic with my car MY03WRX with PPP which according to the prodrive guide should be 265bhp.
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
This though is good news for me because now I have around 70bhp to play with when I get my car up to around 320bhp. It feels fast now so it will be a lot faster when its done.
Just need a VF34 turbo, 3" full decat exhaust, new fuel pump, re map and probalby a bigger top mount intercooler.
Is this list enough or will I need more stuff?
I am assuming I can sell my old turbo, prodrive exhaust and ecu... are these worth anything nowadays?
Oh and I just need about 3 grand in cash to do the mod..........
ahh the joys of having no money.....
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
This though is good news for me because now I have around 70bhp to play with when I get my car up to around 320bhp. It feels fast now so it will be a lot faster when its done.
Just need a VF34 turbo, 3" full decat exhaust, new fuel pump, re map and probalby a bigger top mount intercooler.
Is this list enough or will I need more stuff?
I am assuming I can sell my old turbo, prodrive exhaust and ecu... are these worth anything nowadays?
Oh and I just need about 3 grand in cash to do the mod..........
ahh the joys of having no money.....
Last edited by monkeyboy840; 18 July 2006 at 09:24 AM. Reason: cos i can
#3
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Originally Posted by JohnS
The ambient temperatures at this time of year will have a big impact on power produced.
yeah thats what I thought but apparently they use a corrector in the rolling road software for temp changes.
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It's a known fact that the figures are under what is quoted. I've been told by one tuner who has RR, that the best STi they've seen is 285bhp.
Like you say, will just make your next conversion feel even faster, if those components will give you 320.
Like you say, will just make your next conversion feel even faster, if those components will give you 320.
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Originally Posted by Spec'c'57
how many miles has it done?? mine loosens up mostly everytime i have a RR session... only up to 351bhp now....
Its done 34,000 miles now. is your's a WRX? or a spec C (looking at your name)
#7
Originally Posted by monkeyboy840
yeah thats what I thought but apparently they use a corrector in the rolling road software for temp changes.
<snip>
As a precaution against engine damage, the PPP is designed to reduce boost if the intake temperature becomes too high and this occurs as soon as 40 degrees is achieved. This can occur for example whilst a vehicle is parked for no more than a few minutes, even when the ambient temperature is low. For example, in a 4 degree ambient the intake temperature can rise to 51 degrees after 11 minutes with engine merely idling. This could easily happen prior to a vehicle being rolling road tested unless it was being monitored properly to ensure everything had re-stabilised, otherwise the engine power data obtained is unrepresentative.
<snip>
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Originally Posted by Neilo
you wont need anywhere near 3 grand to do those mods if your sensible!!!
have been on tebay and found the turbo direct from japan for around £500 delivered
pm me if you dont mind, could do with spending less. just need to now where to get the bits from. then I can get someone else to fit em all
going out now so if i dont reply instantly i'm not ignoring you.
thanks for the help
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Originally Posted by monkeyboy840
Just need a VF34 turbo, 3" full decat exhaust, new fuel pump, re map and probalby a bigger top mount intercooler.
Intercoolers come up for sale here quite cheap.
Revolution for your exhaust. or 2nd hand on here.
Mark@LateralPerformance on the scoobyshop here, walbro 255 for £80.
I'd be suprised if it's more than, say £2100.
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Originally Posted by monkeyboy840
go on let me into the secret?
have been on tebay and found the turbo direct from japan for around £500 delivered
pm me if you dont mind, could do with spending less. just need to now where to get the bits from. then I can get someone else to fit em all
going out now so if i dont reply instantly i'm not ignoring you.
thanks for the help
have been on tebay and found the turbo direct from japan for around £500 delivered
pm me if you dont mind, could do with spending less. just need to now where to get the bits from. then I can get someone else to fit em all
going out now so if i dont reply instantly i'm not ignoring you.
thanks for the help
and then the remap which is the bulk at 750~ all in unless you get a group buy price which is typically 500+vat. so about 580 all in.
So....with the purchase of a new turbo (which is very sensible) at 500 quid...then i reckon you could do all of that for around the 1500 mark. The only thing that i have not factored in is an uprated STI intercooler...at about 250.
Turbo - 500
Remap - 750 or 580
Injectors - 175
Filter- 40
IC - 250
Fuel pump - 80
Up pipe - 115
Downpipe - 115
Worst case - 2k
Best case 1.5k
either way....a bit better than 3k
#13
Originally Posted by GazTheHat
It's a known fact that the figures are under what is quoted. I've been told by one tuner who has RR, that the best STi they've seen is 285bhp.
#14
[QUOTE=monkeyboy840]Just had rolling road run at scoobyclinic with my car MY03WRX with PPP which according to the prodrive guide should be 265bhp.
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
Just thought I'd mention here the fundamental mistake made with regard to horsepower.
The Scooby PPP is rated at 265 PS and NOT 265 BHP.
The true horsepower figure ( in an ideal world ) is actually 261 BHP .
Based on that your only down by 7.1 bhp which I would have said ain't that bad at all seeing as all the variables that can affect the running of a vehicle can make it run worse or better i.e. fuel type, intake air, etc.
Think you did good myself
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
Just thought I'd mention here the fundamental mistake made with regard to horsepower.
The Scooby PPP is rated at 265 PS and NOT 265 BHP.
The true horsepower figure ( in an ideal world ) is actually 261 BHP .
Based on that your only down by 7.1 bhp which I would have said ain't that bad at all seeing as all the variables that can affect the running of a vehicle can make it run worse or better i.e. fuel type, intake air, etc.
Think you did good myself
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Originally Posted by Neilo
Theres no secret, like what was said above....it depends if your bothered about all bits being new or not...for example, there are plenty of 2nd hand stainless exhausts for sale all the time for not a lot of cash, you dont really need 3" turbo back at that power level, a 2.5" is not a restrictionuntil over 350bhp. So with that in mind, all you need is a decat downpipe and up pipe, cos you could keep the prodrive rest of it.....so that would be say....200-250 for good quality items. STI injectors come up fairly often for between 150-200 quid and will provide enough fuel flow for your needs. Fuel pump as suggested above for 80 quid. A better panel filter assuming you dont already have one, 40 quid.
and then the remap which is the bulk at 750~ all in unless you get a group buy price which is typically 500+vat. so about 580 all in.
So....with the purchase of a new turbo (which is very sensible) at 500 quid...then i reckon you could do all of that for around the 1500 mark. The only thing that i have not factored in is an uprated STI intercooler...at about 250.
Turbo - 500
Remap - 750 or 580
Injectors - 175
Filter- 40
IC - 250
Fuel pump - 80
Up pipe - 115
Downpipe - 115
Worst case - 2k
Best case 1.5k
either way....a bit better than 3k
and then the remap which is the bulk at 750~ all in unless you get a group buy price which is typically 500+vat. so about 580 all in.
So....with the purchase of a new turbo (which is very sensible) at 500 quid...then i reckon you could do all of that for around the 1500 mark. The only thing that i have not factored in is an uprated STI intercooler...at about 250.
Turbo - 500
Remap - 750 or 580
Injectors - 175
Filter- 40
IC - 250
Fuel pump - 80
Up pipe - 115
Downpipe - 115
Worst case - 2k
Best case 1.5k
either way....a bit better than 3k
thanks for all the advice guys. made me feel better could live with 2k
#20
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MY03WRX
You should have a look at this thread.......
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...hlight=martynj
Usefull info about tuning newage cars.....
We managed 352bhp out of a VF34.......
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...hlight=martynj
Usefull info about tuning newage cars.....
We managed 352bhp out of a VF34.......
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#24
I've rarely seen a WRX PPP make over 250bhp so I'd say you've done pretty well myself considering the recent ambient temperatures.
Mine at PPP stage only made 246bhp and the temps that day barely made it over zero degrees C.
Mine at PPP stage only made 246bhp and the temps that day barely made it over zero degrees C.
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My WRX300 was spot on 265 at Powerstation. Another WRX with PPP was about 10 to 15 down. An 03 I think.
The temps today would account for your drop though. ]
Interesting excerp from http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/power3.htm
Operating Conditions.
Air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formulae that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results. Sadly however there is no one universally accepted set of "standard" conditions because different automotive bodies in different countries use different standards to calibrate to. "SAE" power standards are used in the USA and sometimes in England. "DIN" standards are used on the continent and there are a few other oddball systems just to confuse the issue. So just because your car is rated at 100 bhp and a friends at 110 bhp doesn't necessarily mean that his engine is more powerful - it depends whether both measurements were corrected to the same standard conditions. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines
The temps today would account for your drop though. ]
Interesting excerp from http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/power3.htm
Operating Conditions.
Air temperature, pressure and humidity affect the amount of power an engine produces. Cold dense air means a greater mass of oxygen per power cycle and thus more power is generated (provided of course that air/fuel mixture is properly calibrated for the conditions prevailing). There are formulae that can be used to calculate how much the measured power would change if the test conditions were different. This enables dyno results to be "corrected" back to standard conditions to enable comparison with anyone else's test results. Sadly however there is no one universally accepted set of "standard" conditions because different automotive bodies in different countries use different standards to calibrate to. "SAE" power standards are used in the USA and sometimes in England. "DIN" standards are used on the continent and there are a few other oddball systems just to confuse the issue. So just because your car is rated at 100 bhp and a friends at 110 bhp doesn't necessarily mean that his engine is more powerful - it depends whether both measurements were corrected to the same standard conditions. Copyright David Baker and Puma Race Engines
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Originally Posted by monkeyboy840
Just had rolling road run at scoobyclinic with my car MY03WRX with PPP which according to the prodrive guide should be 265bhp.
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
This though is good news for me because now I have around 70bhp to play with when I get my car up to around 320bhp. It feels fast now so it will be a lot faster when its done.
Just need a VF34 turbo, 3" full decat exhaust, new fuel pump, re map and probalby a bigger top mount intercooler.
Is this list enough or will I need more stuff?
Once again the run shows how way out the estimates by prodrive are as its actually running 253.9bhp, somewhere its missing 11bhp.
This though is good news for me because now I have around 70bhp to play with when I get my car up to around 320bhp. It feels fast now so it will be a lot faster when its done.
Just need a VF34 turbo, 3" full decat exhaust, new fuel pump, re map and probalby a bigger top mount intercooler.
Is this list enough or will I need more stuff?
If you're interested in what can be acheived with the kind of mods you suggest, have a look at the following thread.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=527345
or just the power graph if you don't want a long read!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/ns04/cc60eb74.jpg
Choice of mapper is critical. I used Bob Rawle
Ns04
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I see my previous Scooby will be taking steriods then! Monkeyboy, hope the car is running well for ya.
I didn't know the power output was that far down off the stated 265ps.
Glad I went to tsl then for my upgrade on my new car!
I didn't know the power output was that far down off the stated 265ps.
Glad I went to tsl then for my upgrade on my new car!
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Originally Posted by alwong
I see my previous Scooby will be taking steriods then! Monkeyboy, hope the car is running well for ya.
I didn't know the power output was that far down off the stated 265ps.
Glad I went to tsl then for my upgrade on my new car!
I didn't know the power output was that far down off the stated 265ps.
Glad I went to tsl then for my upgrade on my new car!
Had no probs with it so far runs perfectly.
looking forward to the upgrade but got to save the pennies now.
Cars already had an STI8 rear spolier, sti lamp covers and sti aero pieces added, just tring to source some STI side skirts and she'll be finished on the outside.
craig
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Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
I would port and wrap the headers too, it'll offset the higher boost threshold of the bigger turbo and felp keep under bonnet temps down.
If you're interested in what can be acheived with the kind of mods you suggest, have a look at the following thread.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=527345
or just the power graph if you don't want a long read!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/ns04/cc60eb74.jpg
Choice of mapper is critical. I used Bob Rawle
Ns04
If you're interested in what can be acheived with the kind of mods you suggest, have a look at the following thread.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=527345
or just the power graph if you don't want a long read!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v683/ns04/cc60eb74.jpg
Choice of mapper is critical. I used Bob Rawle
Ns04
cheers for the info
#30
I had mine RR on a hot day too but was well chuffed by the numbers..
MY00 with PPP and Blitz exhaust system knocked out 267 bhp and 268 lb/ft (book numbers of 237bhp and 258 lb/ft)
39k on the clock and totally mint if i'm honest
I was even more chuffed as couple of others who did theirs at the same time thought their numbers were way below what they should be.
MY00 with PPP and Blitz exhaust system knocked out 267 bhp and 268 lb/ft (book numbers of 237bhp and 258 lb/ft)
39k on the clock and totally mint if i'm honest
I was even more chuffed as couple of others who did theirs at the same time thought their numbers were way below what they should be.
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