Help ..... SPA boost gauge problem !!
#1
Hi All
Sorry for the X post, but I need info ...
I had my boost gauge fitted on Friday (SPA dual boost and temp).
Oil temp side of things is working fine but the boost will not read over 0.3bar.
It's plumbed into the vacuum (I think) hose on the dump valve, with the aid of some samco hose and a 'T' piece. The gauge is zero'd correctly and all other settings are aparently fine.
It reads -0.0 and then falls to ~ -0.2 with the engine running.
Boost rises to about 0.0 at ~ 2k rpm after which it won't read > 0.3bar.
I've checked the hoses last night and all seemed ok.
My knocklink reads nothing out of the ordinary, however my lambdalink seems to go 'hunting' on cruise (1 red up to orange and
back). Here the boost reads 0.0 but generally the car seems to be running fine.
My real concern is a leak, especially as I have a trip up to N.Wales this weekend.
Anybody have any suggestion (other than disconnect it) ??
Thanks
Adam
Sorry for the X post, but I need info ...
I had my boost gauge fitted on Friday (SPA dual boost and temp).
Oil temp side of things is working fine but the boost will not read over 0.3bar.
It's plumbed into the vacuum (I think) hose on the dump valve, with the aid of some samco hose and a 'T' piece. The gauge is zero'd correctly and all other settings are aparently fine.
It reads -0.0 and then falls to ~ -0.2 with the engine running.
Boost rises to about 0.0 at ~ 2k rpm after which it won't read > 0.3bar.
I've checked the hoses last night and all seemed ok.
My knocklink reads nothing out of the ordinary, however my lambdalink seems to go 'hunting' on cruise (1 red up to orange and
back). Here the boost reads 0.0 but generally the car seems to be running fine.
My real concern is a leak, especially as I have a trip up to N.Wales this weekend.
Anybody have any suggestion (other than disconnect it) ??
Thanks
Adam
#2
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I thought the boost guage connected directly to the nozzle on the manifold?
You can find more info on Nick's top site here Nick's Top Site
Assuming it's a UK/Euro one of course....dunno what the Jap ones are like.....
You can find more info on Nick's top site here Nick's Top Site
Assuming it's a UK/Euro one of course....dunno what the Jap ones are like.....
#3
If you have a standard ecu, I thought the lambda will hunt at cruise. That way it averages out at stoich.
At cruise as well it should be reading a vacuum, as you are not boosting at all, there will be a vacuum in the inlet manifold as the engine sucks in air.
Does the gauges still flick from vacuum up to zero when you rev the car in neutral?
At cruise as well it should be reading a vacuum, as you are not boosting at all, there will be a vacuum in the inlet manifold as the engine sucks in air.
Does the gauges still flick from vacuum up to zero when you rev the car in neutral?
#4
Hanslow
.. thanks, nice set of pages ... but it's a Jap.
Adam
Yup, it's standard, I've just never noticed it hunting quite so much <shrug> ... as I said the car seems to be running fine (sounds OK, not running obviously lean and no sign of det), just can't get the gauge to read > 0.3bar
Yes, in neutral reads -0.2 on tick over and goes up to ~ 0.0 when revved ... (SPA suggested that -0.2 seemed a bit high ? ie under-reading ??).
Difficult to tell (from a 'seat of the pants' type measurement) if it's leaking somewhere as I had the DP and centre fitted at the same time.
Cheers
Adam
.. thanks, nice set of pages ... but it's a Jap.
Adam
Yup, it's standard, I've just never noticed it hunting quite so much <shrug> ... as I said the car seems to be running fine (sounds OK, not running obviously lean and no sign of det), just can't get the gauge to read > 0.3bar
Yes, in neutral reads -0.2 on tick over and goes up to ~ 0.0 when revved ... (SPA suggested that -0.2 seemed a bit high ? ie under-reading ??).
Difficult to tell (from a 'seat of the pants' type measurement) if it's leaking somewhere as I had the DP and centre fitted at the same time.
Cheers
Adam
#5
you would notice if youw ere only getting 0.3 bar of boost. The car would feel almost normally aspirated.
My car sits at idle at -0.4 so yuour sounds like it is under reading the magnitude. The only thing I can suggest is get to a garage who deal with turbo cgarged cars and get them to pressurise the manifold wih a handpump. These have calibrated gauges on them. At the same time, have a llok at what your gauge is reading to confirm the problem. If it is leaking you will soon find out when you try to pump it up.
My car sits at idle at -0.4 so yuour sounds like it is under reading the magnitude. The only thing I can suggest is get to a garage who deal with turbo cgarged cars and get them to pressurise the manifold wih a handpump. These have calibrated gauges on them. At the same time, have a llok at what your gauge is reading to confirm the problem. If it is leaking you will soon find out when you try to pump it up.
#6
Adam
Thanks for the info
Yes, I absolutely agree ... it's definately not actually producing 0.3bar.
The $64,000 question is just how much more is it actually producing !
<long shot> Anyone know of such a place near Cambs ? </long shot>
... s'pose ScoobySport's not *that* far
Adam
Thanks for the info
Yes, I absolutely agree ... it's definately not actually producing 0.3bar.
The $64,000 question is just how much more is it actually producing !
<long shot> Anyone know of such a place near Cambs ? </long shot>
... s'pose ScoobySport's not *that* far
Adam
#7
Adam, I'm just interested you're SPA gauge..sorry no help from me
Have you got it fitted in a single pod on the A pillar ?
How much was the fitting cost ?
What is the refresh rate on the digital displays ?
Who easy is it to read when triving along ?
Cheers
Pete
Have you got it fitted in a single pod on the A pillar ?
How much was the fitting cost ?
What is the refresh rate on the digital displays ?
Who easy is it to read when triving along ?
Cheers
Pete
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
It does not sound like it is plumbed in the right place. If it is teed in it should be on the hose to the fuel pressure regulator. However it doesnt need to be teed in on a UK turbo. I suggest you block the tee off temporarily to the gauge by cutting the pipe about an inch from the tee and putting a plug in it.(Use a bolt or similar with a tie wrap around it or use the blanking plug from the next connection) Then reconnect your gauge to the blanked connection on the front of the inlet manifold. Take your car for a quick run and you should know whether it is your gauge or not.
After - Rectify your hoses as necessary.
Beastie
After - Rectify your hoses as necessary.
Beastie
#9
Hi All
Started the car this morning ... 0.0 bar
hmmmm, poped bonnet <hsssss>, hmmmm
The 'T' piece has split ! So I'm off to Halfords ...
Peter
The gauge is mounted in a ScoobyMania 3 gauge pod.
Fitting was done with loads of other stuff, so it's hard to say.
Refresh rate ? no idea, but the sampling rate is user definable.
Yes it's very easy to read (backlit).
Beastie
I checked with the guys at SPA and they said it should be OK ...
Cheers
Adam
Started the car this morning ... 0.0 bar
hmmmm, poped bonnet <hsssss>, hmmmm
The 'T' piece has split ! So I'm off to Halfords ...
Peter
The gauge is mounted in a ScoobyMania 3 gauge pod.
Fitting was done with loads of other stuff, so it's hard to say.
Refresh rate ? no idea, but the sampling rate is user definable.
Yes it's very easy to read (backlit).
Beastie
I checked with the guys at SPA and they said it should be OK ...
Cheers
Adam
#10
Peter,
I am not sure of the sampling rate but the SPAs are great pieces of kit, and it is easily much faster than it needs to be, can read much faster than you would be able to detect the changes.
They are great because they have an output which allows you to use them for switching things like water injection on. You can use the temp ones to switch on water spray if inlet charge gets too hot!
I am not sure of the sampling rate but the SPAs are great pieces of kit, and it is easily much faster than it needs to be, can read much faster than you would be able to detect the changes.
They are great because they have an output which allows you to use them for switching things like water injection on. You can use the temp ones to switch on water spray if inlet charge gets too hot!
#11
... well at least a partial smiley anyway :
I replaced the 'T' piece and the gauge now reads -0.2 .. -0.3 on tickover
Not sure it's sorted the problem, but it's a step in the right direction.
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