pants lights
#1
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Bell and Colvill quote 275+vat+fitting for the piaa lamps.
I agree with jaydee tho'. those of you who commute round m3/m4/m25 way will know that the main beam is less used than the cup holder!
I agree with jaydee tho'. those of you who commute round m3/m4/m25 way will know that the main beam is less used than the cup holder!
#2
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Cibie driving lamps conversion is good, but changing bulbs when they go pop is fiddly and time consuming. I actually remove the whole unit and take it into the house to do it! Plus, the screws holding the my year-old units together have rusted in place.
Dunno if the PIAAs are any better in this respect though.
A.
Dunno if the PIAAs are any better in this respect though.
A.
#3
Improved dipped beam performance...
As I've mentioned in previous posts, my solution was to fit a couple of small 55W driving lamps behind the grill. I angled the beams lower than you'd normally do for driving lamps to make sure they don't dazzle oncoming drivers.
It's a faily simple cheap job. About £25 for parts (lamps, relay, wire, and crimps). Knock up a couple of mounting brakets from alloy sheeting, drill a couple of holes in the slam panel (oh and need to do a mod to move the horn), wire it all up... about 3 hours in total at a leisurly pace.
Yes, it's illegal to have aux lighting on at the same time as dipped beams, but so far (touch wood) PC Plod hasn't pulled me over, and I've had very few flashes from on coming traffic.
- ColinU.
As I've mentioned in previous posts, my solution was to fit a couple of small 55W driving lamps behind the grill. I angled the beams lower than you'd normally do for driving lamps to make sure they don't dazzle oncoming drivers.
It's a faily simple cheap job. About £25 for parts (lamps, relay, wire, and crimps). Knock up a couple of mounting brakets from alloy sheeting, drill a couple of holes in the slam panel (oh and need to do a mod to move the horn), wire it all up... about 3 hours in total at a leisurly pace.
Yes, it's illegal to have aux lighting on at the same time as dipped beams, but so far (touch wood) PC Plod hasn't pulled me over, and I've had very few flashes from on coming traffic.
- ColinU.
#4
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This is the first morning commute I've actually relied on my lights... and they're poo. It doesn't help that I've got the clear headlamp protectors on them, but still!
can anyone tell me what warranty friendly head/driving lamp upgrades/conversions there are?
cheers
fosters
can anyone tell me what warranty friendly head/driving lamp upgrades/conversions there are?
cheers
fosters
#7
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I'll second the PIAA lights - superb, but make sure that whichever dealer fits them also sets them up for you......
The Cibies from SccobySport are also supposed to be pretty good, but not sure about the warranty effect.
The Cibies from SccobySport are also supposed to be pretty good, but not sure about the warranty effect.
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#9
There's hundreds of option about great driving lights - PIAA etc. But in reality I, and I expect most people, drive on dipped headlights most of the time due to oncoming traffic.
And so what set up gives the best DIPPED beam performance I would like to know?
JD
And so what set up gives the best DIPPED beam performance I would like to know?
JD
#11
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Or fit replacement bulbs. I use PIAA Superwhites as direct replacements for the standard bulbs. I have been running these since July - massive improvement over the standard bulbs on both dipped and full beam.
Not cheap at £55 a pair, but they are 'E' marked and road legal.
I am also thinking of fitting driving lamps as well (probably the Cibies or PIAAs), but if you want a quick fit, go with some new bulbs first.
Chris
Not cheap at £55 a pair, but they are 'E' marked and road legal.
I am also thinking of fitting driving lamps as well (probably the Cibies or PIAAs), but if you want a quick fit, go with some new bulbs first.
Chris
#12
Fitting better bulbs doesn't sit well with me as a solution.
Problem: Lights are crap because the reflector design is poor and leaks too much out to the sides (try looking to the side when driving down a road with hedges).
Solution: Fit brighter lights?
Better solution: Sort out reflector design to concentrate the light in the right place.
If you look at BMW/Merc lights you'll find the whole unit is so much deeper, giving a much narrower beam.
Problem: Lights are crap because the reflector design is poor and leaks too much out to the sides (try looking to the side when driving down a road with hedges).
Solution: Fit brighter lights?
Better solution: Sort out reflector design to concentrate the light in the right place.
If you look at BMW/Merc lights you'll find the whole unit is so much deeper, giving a much narrower beam.
#15
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PIAA Superwhites do make a difference - and PIAA 120w driving lamp conversion at the same time makes a BIG difference - done both our cars and well worth it.
#16
I've tried Superwhites, very good , but too expensive to keep replacing. 100/80W normal bulbs (Halfords etc) just as good and a fraction the cost. The wiring will cope with the current these higher wattage bulbs draw, but will not handle the 130/100W bulbs also sold. (Technically it is illegal to fit brighter than 60/55W bulbs.) Is your Scoob a MY99 or later - the headlights on these are better than early ones, but still not brilliant. Taking perspex covers off makes a massive difference!
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Are you saying that the lights on earlier cars are worse than my MY00, that doesn't bear thinking about. Every time I put my lights on dip I have to slow down rapidly as I can hardly see anything, I would probably be as well setting up the car so that the brakes automatically come on if the lights are switched off main beam.
The comment on Superwhites being too expensive to keep on replacing, does this imply that they don't last very long as I have never had to replace a light bulb in a car before.
The comment on Superwhites being too expensive to keep on replacing, does this imply that they don't last very long as I have never had to replace a light bulb in a car before.
#18
Robertio,
Yes, as far as I am concerned the earlier lights are worse. My MY97 car was hopelessly underlit on dip. Longevity of bulbs depends where you live, how long you leave your lights on, and if you can remember to switch them off before starting the engine. I drive over bumpy tracks to get to the house and that seems to cause them to blow when hot. Leaving them on when you switch off and then restart the engine seems to be diasterous for Superwhite bulbs.
Moss
Yes, as far as I am concerned the earlier lights are worse. My MY97 car was hopelessly underlit on dip. Longevity of bulbs depends where you live, how long you leave your lights on, and if you can remember to switch them off before starting the engine. I drive over bumpy tracks to get to the house and that seems to cause them to blow when hot. Leaving them on when you switch off and then restart the engine seems to be diasterous for Superwhite bulbs.
Moss
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Not sure if would be worth the hassle then as I have to creep over 5 different speed bumps to get to the house, and as a general rule if the car is moving and it is not sunny then the lights are on.
Anyone else have problems with Superwhites not lasting?
Anyone else have problems with Superwhites not lasting?
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