does anyone have one of these??? i havent got a cone filter as i heard they can do some damage but i could be tempted with this, any opinions/advice would be great please http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MakeTrack=true

 

So are you intending to sheild your Air box then?

 

Yes they can do damage, mine took in water last night from the mini scoop...result, scoob now very ill and running rough as.

If i get fixed i'm going to get a piece of alloy and make a tube to go over the filter and bond it on at the wider end. Or just go back to a panel filter.

 

Looks a right cobbled POS to me Remove the resonator and seal the holes in the wing and make a seal around the airbox where it meets the wing. Fit a decent free flowing panel filter and let your engine enjoy plentiful, clean, cool air from the O/S wing instead of sucking in mucky, hot air from the engine bay. You may want to open up some kind of air inlet into the wing, but don't introduce direct ducting as it may allow large amounts of dirt and water into the induction system which could cause MAF failure.

 

Sucking in water directly onto your induction kit, over oiling the filter and ineffectively fitting and bracketing it will all cause problems. The filters themselves, although with varying degrees of filtration, are perfectly functional.

 

Get Spec R to knock you one of these up.

 

What he said ^ unless you're running a FMIC or big power in which case a kit is needed.

Still can't work how the poster intends to shield his airbox

 

To me the ebay special looks like a complete waste of time because it has gaps all round it you might aswell use the stock airbox..

 

I spent about £200 quid on one of these for my BMW Z3 last year.

Being a N/A car you don't have the luxury of an intercooler to cool the intake temp so you need to keep your induction system as cool as possible, it worked as well.

Seeing as hardly anyone who has tuned their scoobs and had induction kits fitted, I would question the need. That SPec R looks nice though.

 

I take it theres a cone filter in this? what about when it rains where does the water go? or is not sealed all round etc.

 

i dont indend to shield my airbox, what i ment was i could be tempted with a cone filter dependent on was was said on here.

thanks for the good info guys, keep it coming

 

check in the projects section Graham (911) has just done that mod to his hillclimber.

 

Do you have a FMIC or 350 bhp + ?

 

That's the best effort i've seen. Very .

I've gone down the route of a Pipercross Viper. Only problem will be when I get the 20g in the summer as I don't think the Viper will flow enough air (if anyone knows tell me, Harvey doesn't think so, Andy.F wasn't sure)

 

Yes your right, maybe i should have stated the K&N is fine its what do in conjuction with fitting it. I made up brackets and a cold air feed and thought everything was fine....then i added the mini scoop and left it out in the rain allday.

I wish now i had just left the K&N panel filter in, all i gained was noise, hitting the fuel cut in cold weather and now a dead scoob which i hope has not got a damaged the engine. If you fitting a cone filter think very carefully about fitting, brackets, cold air etc and if you really need one.

 

There is a drain hole

 

I spent a couple of years experimenting with various induction methods both NA and turbo and my conclusions were this, based on my own findings and from a lot of chewing ideas over with tuners and modders who actually had competition experience:

Cold air feeds taken from low down in the bumper don't present any real problem if fed into a sealed airbox within the engine bay.

Trying to get a cold air feed to point at a cone filter in the hope that cold air will get to it, is a total waste of time. The air pressure inside most engine bays is equal to or higher than the small 'ram' pressure you might get from your feed.

The current orthodoxy has turned against open induction kits in recent years. This is for very good reason - in the past most of them were about noise and looks. Even though they could flow a lot more air, this was hot engine bay air which was no good on NA applications at all, nor on moderately powered turbo applications.

Open IKs ARE useful in some circumstances - most highly tuned turbo cars will not run a sealed airbox simply because the restriction they cause is worse than the possibility of pulling in hot air, plus the higher the tune, the more likelihood of a serious chargecooling system and better heat management around the engine bay.

So what does this mean? Well, if we are talking purely about performance, my rule of thumb would be once you've gone beyond an additional 50% power over standard, start THINKING about an open induction kit, in a cold corner of the engine bay. On a moderately tuned car with less than 50% extra power, stick to the factory airbox with a decent filter element inside. If your car is making double it's factory power, an IK is probably a very good choice - mega flow rate is much more important than keeping the air stone cold before the turbo. Too much charge heat can be dealt with, a lack of air volume cannot.

 

BTW I've just looked at that picture and it's a tidy job for sure. The concept is good - get the flow benefit of an open cone filter with the heat insulation of a fabricated fairly large airbox, fed from the front. What I'd question is the complexity of the tract between the black factory induction pipe and the actual cone. Any flow gains made by using the cone and big airbox are negated to a certain extent by adding a whole load of pointless pipework!

It looks absolutely superb, but why not just run a single straight silicone hose into the side of the airbox and have the cone on the end of it? Much cheaper, much lighter, better performing.

 

i have one of these no problem with it at all .got it because it look smart more than overall function
all so no pointless pipe work added

 

I thought this also but it's so well crafted I couldn't bring myself to say it. I agree completely with your other comments

 

Sealed airboxes fed from low on the front bumper are a disaster waiting to happen, any one else rememeber the Vauxhalls on the RAC in 1989 (I think)...Renaults also suffer from sucking up water into the sealed box and hydraulicing the engine.....if you want a low mount intake you really must have a water drain point as well!

Simon

 

That's why I said to avoid any direct ducting in my recommendation. Someone on here recently used the foglight aperture of an 03-05 WRX for the induction and ducted it directly into the airbox. It lasted 2 days, and on the second day whilst driving in the wet the MAF was fahooked. When he stripped it down the filter had been overwhelmed with water and dirt and there was oily dirty water beyond it and within the induction piping. Allow air into the wing at the bottom and induce it from the top, but don't duct. That way the muck and water stays down low and the car just gets lots of cool clean air.

 

Agree with you but the MAF sensor was to big to through the side if i get rid of that going through the side would be no problem. Spec R have done one straight through the side.

 

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...y/DSC01004.jpg
this is my cover

 

You can make your own cold air divider with a bit of carbon fibre sheet and some heat mat insulation. Properly done and it is very effective.
on my WRX Wagon it runs along the chasis leg and segregates the area between there and the inner wing.
for some ideas look here: www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000

As aluminium is a good conductor of heat i would not use it for that purpose.

 

Yes sorry I didn't really explain that properly, when I say a sealed airbox fed from low in the bumper, I meant the top end is sealed (from the engine bay) but the bottom end is pretty open, with plenty of baffling in the air pickup so that it is impossible for huge sheets of water to go up the pipe like a tidal wave.

I've driven with these kind of home made induction tracts before with no problems at all in the pouring rain and standing water. Obviously you don't have the pickup scraping along the floor - somewhere in the wheelarch-bumper void is perfect.