rhys172

I'm going to look at a MY93 Jap import WRX tomorrow (Sat 11th Feb) and I'm looking for a bit of advice on what I should make absolutely sure that I check so I don't end up buying a lemon! The current owner is a colleague of mine so at least I know that they're reasonably trustworthy, but reading this forum has got me incredibly paranoid about buying a car that is going to need an engine rebuild the day after I buy it.

So far I know that the car is a red 1993 WRX, imported to the UK in August 2004 and is with its 2nd UK owner at the moment. The current owner replaced the clutch which failed just after they got it. The car has 97k kms on the clock and the clock still reads in kilometers, although the dial face has been changed to read in MPH. It is still restricted to 112mph. I've been told that it is standard bar a vent to atmosphere dump valve (which isn't really what I want - is it cheap to replace with a standard item?). It certainly has a standard looking 'twin-peashooter' exhaust fitted.

I'm going to ask them not to run the engine before I get there so I can hear it from cold, but exactly what should I be looking and listening for? They don't know if the cambelt has been changed, so I'll assume it hasn't and have budgeted to have a cambelt change and service if I buy it. I can live with consumable items such as discs / pads / suspension failing, its the stuff like engine and gearbox problems that I REALLY don't want to inherit! I've also negotiated a price of £2750 should I decide to take it - I know it's a bit odd to settle on the price before hand, but they were originally asking for nearly £4k for it which seemed far too much, so I thought I'd get it to an acceptable price before agreeing to take a look at it. Does that seem reasonable for the car that I've described?

Any advice will be gratefully heeded! Thanks for reading.

seab

sounds like your in exactly the same boat as me dude, when i bought mine in november it was exactly the same, test drive it, try and take someone who knows about scoobies with you. mine was same mileage, year, etc etc and 2months later the big ends started knocking ive just had it back from a full engine rebuild.

be very careful mate, not saying your stupid but im talking from experience

good luck though

GrahamG

Hello mate. to start with look at this http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm.

The cambelt is very cheap to change so don't worry about that. Just get it done as soon as you get any impreza (for your own peice of mind). As for what to listen out for.... i find this tricky because the car does not sound like and other engine. makes lots of funny noises. listen out for knocking or high pitch tapping.

Thats just from my expirence... others will have more advice.

I am guessing that it might be a bit of a dog. To knock that much money off over the phone....

be very careful.

G.

GrahamG

i bought mine from pictures! lol no that is silly!!

rhys172

Thanks for the replies.

The money wasn't knocked off over the phone - it belongs to a colleague that I've worked with for 3 years and I know why it's for sale and it isn't because of a problem with the car (unless you count how much they were paying to insure it), but that's not to say that there isn't a hidden problem that they don't know about lurking round the corner...

To the person who had the engine rebuild - can I ask how much that has set you back and how you knew that the engine was on the way out?

seab

pm sent my freind

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

first things first, what does it look like? If it looks like a dog the chances are its been treated like one and you will probably be experiencing problems straight away.
Assuming it looks ok, then do the usual checks that you would with any car, give it a good going over, checking for leaks, drips etc. Check where it is usually parked if possible to see if there are any marks on the ground from dripping fluids. Check all fluid levels that you can, water/brake/oil(s)/clutch and power steering.
If all these appear to be okay, then make sure the engine is cold and then start it, let it idle for a few minutes, listen for uneven idling(hunting) and check around the engine again to make sure nothing is leaking and that it isnt making any real bad sounds. You will probably be able to hear the injectors ticking which may worry you, but it is normal for injectors to do that. You should be able to tell if it is making any dodgy mechanical noise.

Finally if all that is okay, then go for a test drive (car should now be warmed up however still drive it gentle for a few mins so the gear//diff oils warm up)
On an open stretch of road accelerate (foot to the floor - preferably in 4th or 5th gear) Feel for any hesitation with the engine particulary around about 4k revs, does it appear to hesitate? If so it could be plugs/coil packs which are begining to break down. Look to pay around £40 for a good set of NGK plus and around the same sort of price for 1 coil pack (remember though there are 4). Whilst your driving the car put the heaters on to make sure warm/hot air is coming out. If it is and the temp gauge doesn't go above half way then the head gasket should be okay (after the run pop the bonnet, leave the engine running and look at the expansion tank nr the battery for any bubbling)
It is always a good idea to have someone with you who is in the trade as well

rhys172

Thanks jaytc, just the sort of thing I was after. Fortunately I don't have to make a decision there and then (will mull it over until monday) and because I know the seller I should be able to take it for a long unaccompanied test drive. From what I remember of it when they got it a few months back (I went and admired it in the car park!) it looked clean and tidy and it's not been used much since, so fingers crossed...

Cheers.

gaz c

at last some good advise for a change. and not the normal slagin off.

good look with the car m8.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

meant to say you can get a standard recirc dump valve new for around about £70. Sell yours (there will be plenty of takers on here) and you wont need to spend to much more. Graham Goode racing do them (where I got mine)
Also find out what grade of oil has been used, this is so you continue using the same type (semi synth/fully synth) dont mix the oils if possible. (best bet do an oil change and filter change when you get it)

Bubba po

Why are you spending money on such an old car with no provenance? The country's swamped with newer and better scoobs than that. Buy cheap and pay dearly.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

not true, there are bargains out there.

The older cars are generally more reliable, closed deck blocks, strong mafs that don't tend to fail, the only problems tend to be coil packs.. And it is red, red, not many of them about

Bubba po

Not jap imports, I don't think. I would say they're the number one in rebuild casualties from reading on here.

jaytc2003

iTrader: (1)

Mine is a 93wrx (running power fc and other mods), over 122000 miles, running strong on same original engine. No problems apart from usual service items. Problems tend to occur with imports if cheap quality fuel is used.

apples24

iTrader: (1)

run the right oils the right fuel warm up and down properly they should last extremely well, it all comes down to how prev treated, ask them, look for receipts, when i got mine i saw lots receipts for services with right oil, new coilpacks etc, roling road set ups to run with optimax etc basicly the chap had well maintained it no expense spared

on the otherhand get an abusive owner who hardly changes oil and when he does uses any old stuff, cains the crap out of it id walk away lol

allways hpi the car no matter what hpi reports they show you