SWTWRX

just bought a scooby, not know a huge amount im affraid, but i wanna put a dump valve on it

what do i go for, ive tryed looking, but its a minefield out there, so many, do any work given the right adaptors or do i need something specific

its a 51 plate wrx awd and is a uk one
i dont know what all these different types and codes are i keep seeing
all looks well complex

any help would be grateful


thanks in advance

WRX_SWRT

iTrader: (2)

Am just startin out with subarus too but have researched this quite abit and as far as i see the standard dump valve on ur car is attached to ur intercooler and u get atmospheric ones that bolt on there too go to scoobworlds website, ul find one in there for the bugeye impreza that is exact fit for £128 a bailey one. hope that helps and makes sense lol

sti-04!!

Falkirk boy , make sure you remove the aftermarket dump valve before any warranty work or any servicing. It'll invalidate your years warranty

jdman79

Its a Bailey DV12 that you are looking for (probably the cheapest direct fit Dump Valve) and you can get them for cheap here:

http://www.itsaplaything.co.uk/ccp51...atstr=HOME:bms

Got one myself the other day. Works fine and sounds as you would expect a dump valve to sound.

You will get a nicer sound from a Blitz or HKS SSQV though but they are more than twice the price.

corradoboy

To save me typing it all out again, read through THIS THREAD.

To sum up, there is absolutely no performance advantage, possible performance reduction due to poor running, possible engine damage and total loss of any warranty you may have. A lot of money and a hell of a lot of risk for a silly noise that can be heard by performing the free airbox mod.

SWTWRX

thanks for the responses and help, i have also since posting read many thread on here about them
and probably even more confused now, than i was in the start
i am a bit of a chav so was after the noise
but i also find that when i change gear on the redline, there seems to be somekind of lag, it just dont pick straigh up
i also didnt realise that there was this recir valve on there already

corradoboy

You shouldn't be changing gear on the redline BHP and torque diminish rapidly on a turbo powered car above 6k revs, so aim to change there. The gearing is set so if you change at 6 the next gear should place the revs at around 3.5-4k, right on boost for the maximum attack through that gear. Stretching to 7 and above will slow you down by you venturing into the area above the powerband, and placing you higher in the powerband once in the next gear, and speed up engine wear. It might be worth diverting the money you had saved for the VTA DV into getting a diagnostic done on a rolling road to ensure everything is running correctly, as you should not be getting lag if the revs are above 3k after a gear change, which they easily will be if you're redlining. Any cash spare could get you a decent panel filter (Green/JR Racing/K&N - NOT ITG !) and search on here for the instructions on performing the "resonator removal". This will increase both induction noise from 2.7k revs up and the OE recirc DV blow-off noise when changing up on boost. It also supplies the engine with a more plentiful supply of much cooler air, instead of sucking in the mucky crap from the engine bay.

LINK

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

What is going on! Is it me, or does there seem to be a newbie on here ever blo*dy hour, asking about stupid atmosphereic dumpvalve's??? Just open your window and go vmmmtshhhhhh! It is cheaper and you can also adjust the sound to how you like it. Or, just shout, 'Look at me!!!!!!!'.

WRX_SWRT

iTrader: (2)

Good one fella, do you not think it is good that people are buyin imprezas and want to try to improve them? some people don`t know alot are seeking advice. and guess what am a newbie lol

marcymarc555

Dont get me started on this subject , use the search function and all will be revieled.