Redevilwrx

Hi guys ,

Been looking at Type R/RAs over the weekend.Problem is that they get called different things ie 555 , PPP etc with all different power claims.

Thing is I need some pointers with regards to ECU mapping etc.
Whats the best model and year ?

Thanx in advance

Andy

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Here might be a good place to look....

Type R Corner

J

willipdarling

Ok type r is the 2 door version jap import, which is why they made the p1(To combat "grey" imports). Around 280 bhp, with similar torque(i think). Type ra was a rally spec engine, made with lighter weight body(alloy panels), no creature comfort, ie power windows or air con, unless they have been fitted as an aftermarket item. Geared to 125(i think), with a 0-60 of around 4.5ish secs(claimed) and an intercoller water spray. The "555" was a comemorative model of subaru winning, i think, their third rally title in the impreza. About the time that mr mcrae made the subie very famous. Hope all this helps.

richiewong

http://www.sidc.co.uk/faq.htm

Redevilwrx

keep it coming guys ,INPUT INPUT !! lol

Cheers andy.

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Ok, heres my input...

As for best model and year, thats mainly down to personal preference. I prefer the V5 (my99) Type R (cos I have one ) but Im sure some people would argue that the V4 is better as they are a bit less refined, then again by all accounts (i havent been in one), for out and out driveability on the limit, the RA is better, plus, if you have kids the 4 doors will be more practical. Im personally not as keen on the V6 as most (all?) seem to be V Limited and I dont like the blue seats (stupid I know! )


As for PPP.... forget it, thats for UK cars. All STi's are originally mapped for 100 RON fuel, so its advisable to get them remapped to 98 RON (Optimax) petrol otherwise you'll need to put octane boost in every tank and will def need a knocklink to keep a check on things.

Im sure someone else will be along shortly to add (or correct ) to what Ive put.

J

gravelexpress

as above -
let your own preference decide. I like Jaybee imported what basically is an ex-Jap street racer. It is a non-compromise vehicle. but only due to the mods - uprated diff, pillow ball mounted race coilovers etc.

but I wouldnt change it

Redevilwrx

Cheers , keep it up please

can you tell me where to get insured on a type r? How much to remap and where? What kind of knock link is required and prices?

Bearing in mind i live in sheffield so anywhere up north.


andy

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Im insured with Tesco Insurance.

The remap will depend on what you go for IE: Ecutek, Apexi PFC (I have one of these), Motec, Gems etc
A Tek 3 (EcuTek) will cost around £650 + vat but with one of these, its recommendable that you get all your other mods done before you get it mapped. Whereas with the Apexi for example, it will cost around the £750 mark for the ecu and then £180 to get it mapped by Andy F, but then subsequent remaps (say, everytime you add more goodies) will (prob by the time you get round to getting one) only be in the region of £80 a shot.

Ive only ever seen one sort of knocklink (that can be fitted in various ways).

If I was having a Tek 3, Id got to BRD or Prosport in Stockport. If I was getting an Apexi speak to Andy F. As for the others, Im not really sure. As far as location is concerned. Its worth travelling to get it done right.

My recommendation..... just get one bought!!

J

Redevilwrx

thanx jay bee.

So in theory £2000 once i have bought the thing !!!!! inc cat 1 and tracker.



Is it worth it or should i try for a P1 as they are going for £13K ??

Confused

andy

Adam M

age old discussion. depends what kind of driver you are.

if an enthusiast, go for a type r or ra (depending on body style you prefer), if not as keen a driver who likes the reassurance of abs then go for a P1.

Main advantage of P1 was warranty, but that is going now.

In terms of hardware the cars equipped with a dccd are better. Stronger rear diff, better centre diff, stronger rear driveshafts, better rear brakes, and stronger rear hubs. They are also more rear wheel drive biased but if you are an enthusiast you can tailor the handling on the fly if you learn how to by adjusting the centre diff.

The RA engines on the later cars are no different from the other sti engines. On the very early cars which it doesn't sound like you are keen on, they ahd a fifth injector, but that is irrelevant to you.

The later cars are what you are after, forget the version 4, you need a 5 or a 6 (slight spoiler and front grille differences and the V limited versins of the R and Ra had blue seats as mentioned above). You need a fiove or 6 as they had the phase 2 engine whose ecu is the only of the classics that could be remapped. Any classic car of phase 2 onwards can be remapped, UK turbo, P1, RB5, sti 4 d00r, wrx. You can tell the difference because when looking at the engine, the coil pack leading off to the spark plugs is offset to the right of the engine whereas in the version 3 and 4 it was in the very centre.

The late type rs and ras have the same gearing as each other and it isn't that short, still good for 160mph in top, but they do accelerate harder as a result. Later RAs were still lightweight but they tended to have air con and electric windows. The V limiteds certainly did. They also came with a roof vent and a longer fifth gear (same as normal stis- good for 178 in top if you have the power).

You can get STI Type R and type RA v limiteds. The difference is pretty much the body style. Both have creature comforts, the decent drivetrain, and a roof vent. These are probably the model of choice in the classic, and short of the 22B are the most desirable. None of these has abs as it was aparently incompatible with the dccd (manually adjustable centre diff)

You can also get non sti type rs and ras (in v limited version too) these are reconisable by them not having a red inlet manifold. They are lower spec in that they don't have aluminium suspension components, sti engine heads (capable of revving to 8k rpm) forged pistons etc. They still make 280 bhp out of the box, but are less likely to withstand modding. That said, people have extracted 400+bhp out of standard uk engines which is essentially what these have.

Given the choice, I would go for an sti 5 or 6 type R (2 door) V-limited, and learn to drive it as ultimately this and the type RA (4 door) are the most capable, desirable and individual, and were certainly the best of the classics.

The P1 looks similar to the type r, has a bit of fancy dress, and is easier for the average joe to drive since it is biased towards understeer. It may also have some warranty left.

Insurance on any of the above is not a problem, and after 5 years of jap import ownership is getting easier and cheaper if anything. Same goes for parts. If you have contacts and know where to look, you can get hold of anything within a day, and not at stealer prices.

For this kind of stuff, although scoobynet is a great resource, I hate saying this but look on 22b.com as all the established modders and contacts you need for tuning, servicing and repair are all concentrated in one place and will have done everything you will want to know about.

As for remapping with an ecutek, there is also Patrick Herborn to consider as he is far closer to you than the other options mentioned already, he can also be found lurking on the above link I gave you. Don't assume it is a requirement, it is probably more useful and cheaper in the long run, but you can run a version 5/6 on optimax and NF octane booster at 100ron happily, with just as much confidence as you should be able to with a remap.

To keep tabs on engne running health, the first thing you should buy is a knocklink (about £100) regardless of which impreza you buy, that way you will know if the engine is suffering from dodgy fuel, particularly when running on boost. It is running lean and det, as well as suspect oil supply which causes the death of these engines.

You have done the right thing by asking in advance!

hope this has helped.

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

I was originally looking at a P1, and to get a low milage mint P1, you need to be looking at £16 - £18k. After looking around, I actually saw less Type Rs on the road than P1's. Someone recommended that if I was wanting a P1 then I should consider a Type R... After looking into it, the Type R, was and is, for me the better choice. No question about it. Yes, you will need a Cat 1 and tracker, which cost me about £750 all in (inc 1 yrs sub for the tracker). As stated above, you dont need the remap, as you can use Optimax and octane booster (or super and a touch more octane booster). I have been very lucky with the one i bought, cos it is VERY low mileage and in the boot were lots and lots of extra's such as an Apexi ecu (still boxed), the original STi suspension and lots of other cool stuff. So, seeing as I have a 120 mile commute, it works out cheaper in the long run to have it remapped for Optimax. I have a knocklink but it isnt in yet because the Apexi can be used to detect and display when det is occuring via the CEL. As its worked out, its ended up costing me the same as low milage P1 (say with 20K on the clock) but mine only has just over 10K on the clock!

Take a P1 out then a Type R and see what you think. They are both pretty amazing cars and they both have advantages and disadvantages over each other. One doesnt need octane boost or a remap and may come with a subaru warranty, has one off spoiler, front splitter etc, the other has more toys - DCCD (which is great when you start getting used to it), climate as opposed to just A/C, electric folding mirrors etc etc, more kudos (depending on who you speak to ), slightly quicker off the mark and through the gears (i think??), but will need octane boost or remap and wont come with a subaru warranty. Im not going to say get a Type R as it really will boil down to which one you prefer.

J

BTW.....



.....buy a Type R

Oh... and the chances are, if you buy one thats been pre-owned in the UK, it will already have a cat 1 and tracker, knocklink and poss a remap. You wont be able to import one anymore, so if you are wanting one that hasnt been owned by someone in the uk, you will need to get a move on and get in touch with people like New Era Imports etc to see if they have any left!

Playsatan

iTrader: (2)

I used to have a UK turbo which has a similar transmission to a P1 but now have a Type R version 5, the difference is huge.

It's a much more focused car and in the right hands a total weapon.

The flip side is it can take a bit of getting used to. I could jump in my old car and from day one be pretty quick in it but after getting the Type R I nearly crashed it every time I took it out at first. The lack of ABS combined with the DCCD (goodbye understeer) gave me a few moments but I'd never swap back now.

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Same as above

J

OdD KiDS OtHeR MatE

I'm not a 'clever' driver... I get by. I love my Type R (4) I do play with the DCCD. It is fantastic in icy / wet conditions and by far the safest car I can remember driving. That said, I'd hate to have a scare in it at the achievable speeds!

As far as I can gather, the biggest downfall of the 3 & 4 is that the ECU isn't cost-effectively mappable? You have to go GEMS or similar. I am saving up for just that. My car has done 35k, with Jap history? I have changed the CamBelt for good measure and add booster to Optimax. Hoping for the best till the Gems is affordable.

I cannot see you regretting buying one of these if this is the kind of car that rocks your boat.. They are awesome. You just don't wanna put it away!

Go get one

Andy.F

Hi J

Just a quick correction, the Apexi ECU is only £700 supplied, fitted and
mapped. You're spot on with regard to the other prices

Andy

Redevilwrx

Test drove the car 2day and I cant stop talking about it !!lol

this car is amazing and is running stadard @ 300bhp

The car is a GC8F4DD which equates to WRX RA StI5 4 door V limited special edition 555.

roof vent , dccd , blue seats , boost guage , turbo timer, push button start, Blitz exhaust ,Fully adjustable suspension and split rim BBS Alloys.

the car has had sva but requires mot and registering .


I sh;t myself at full chat upto the 8000rpm redline

Deposit of 10% is going down n the morning to secure .Is £10,000 a good price for this motor bearing in mind its got 60.000km on the clock

Cheers Andy m.(Soon 2 b a Typera owner)

gravelexpress

for a version V that price is a steal

chrisp

I would be surprised if it was running 300bhp standard to be honest. With a remap for uk fuel 320-330bhp no problem though.

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Oops sorry Andy...

Bargin at half the price!

J

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Nice one Andy... good move and a top price!!!!

(wouldnt recommend taking it to 8000 rpm tho )

J

Adam M

what does bargain at half the price actually mean?

surely that is totally the wrong way round to show that it is really cheap it should be bargain at twice the price.

Never did understand that saying.

How can everyone have it so completely wrong?

johnfelstead

Why not? i did all the time when it was apropriate, its designed to be shifted at 7900rpm with 8100rpm overshoots if you need to hold a gear mid corner. Limiter kicks in at around 8100rpm, which is about 8300rpm on the dash tacho as it under reads a couple hundred rpm at the top end.

Steve vRS

I've had my Type R a few days now and it's taking a bit of getting used to not changing up until 7900. I still change at 5500 like in all my other turbo cars!

Steve

Redevilwrx

NOT LONG NOW !!!


Will post pictures which i'll take this afternoon

Andy.

PS Got to find insurance now tho !! gona kill me. Who do you lot use. Could do with a insurer that does not require a tracker.£££££

Steve vRS

Try Warwick Davis - 08717 502107.

Steve

OdD KiDS OtHeR MatE

So please with your response... makes me feel more comfortable... As you say, it's designed for it..

DaveW

I think maybe that Jay_Bee was referring to the fact that as the car has just been SVA'd it probably doesn't have a knocklink fitted and the quality (RON rating) of the fuel is unknown, so better to err on the side of caution.

Dave.

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Jay_bee

iTrader: (1)

Indeed.

I also doubt that theres any real need in everyday driving to be redlining it.
Maybe on the track or private road LOL


J

Edited to say :- Sorry meant to say I wouldnt recommend taking it to 8000rpm all the time