toigye

hi all can you tell me do you have to warm the engine on sti before driving and why ,also is optimax the only fuel i should use

toigye

does anybody know

GaryCat

No, just drive gently (i.e. keep it below 4000rpm) until the temp gauge shows the engine is at normal temperature.

Optimax or SUL gives better protection against detting than Normal UL, especially if it's a jap sti which is designed for 100 ron fuel.

G

greasemonkey

You don't have to warm the engine before pulling away, but, as Gary says, keep off the gas and below 4000rpm or so until it's fully up to temperature.

Again as Gary says, the octane rating of Optimax is higher than regular unleaded and other brands of SUL, which will allow a UK car to run greater levels of advance, giving better performance, and, in most cases, slightly better fuel economy.

If, however, you do have a Japanese market import, you should be running on Optimax plus the correct amount of a good (Ideally NF Race Formula or Millers) octane booster. Japanese market cars are designed for 100-101 octane fuel, and running on Optimax/SUL alone (which is 98.something) not only impacts performance, it can lead to detonation, and engine damage.

Edited to say, the header of your first post is "running in". Does this mean you're actually running in a new car at the moment?

Simon Lau

So GM, take it to 7000rpm after it's warmed up??

wrx_sti_my04

Currently running in an MY04 STi, around half way there and it is a real drag.
You get to 3000 rpm without even moving off and before you know it wants to get to 4000 rpm with the turbo beginning to sing. The only option is to use the gears, I have never changed gear so much. Also not much fun being the slowest Subaru on the road!

As for fuel, still on the normal 95 UL - as per the dealers instruction. I asked a couple of times and he was clear that I didn't / shouldn't use 98 or Opt - unless I PPP the car later. I am guessing it is more for the imports / classics?

Cheers
TonyM

Blobster

Use Optimax.
Remember when warming up it's the oil you want to get up to decent temp. If you go by the temp gauge on the dash, that is not oil temp! Give the car about 10 mins before inserting the lead weights into your right shoe.

Happy motoring.
Blobster

Scooby96

wrx sti my04 - do a google search for an alternative running in - cant think what the guys name is but he advocates doing high/med/low/med/high rpm from new.

Someone might even post a link here???

Still not sure if I was ever in the position with a brand new motor that I'd try this but its definitely interesting reading all the same.

greasemonkey

Ah, but just think how good it's going to feel when you do start to open it up a bit!

As Scooby96 intimates, running an engine in optimally isn't simply a case of keeping the revs as low as possible, or indeed keeping at any engine speed for extended periods of time. If you're on the motorway, vary your speed, and, alternate between fifth and sixth to vary the load. Little need to treat 3K/4Krpm as gospel, it's okay to go over at times, just keep it light footed and don't let it labour/bog down and everything will be hunky dory.

Other thing to bear in mind with a new engine is that, while the general recommendations round here are for fully synthetic oils like Mobil 1 Motorsport, Motul 300v et al, you want to run a good semi-synthetic
until the engine's got 7-10,000 miles on it. Running a full synth too early in the engine's life can inhibit the completion of the running in process, which obviously ain't so good in the long run.

When the "running-in" oil is changed at 1000 miles, I'd get them some Shell Helix Plus to put in. Get it changed again at 4,000 and 7,000 miles, and then get some of the Motul or Mobil to put in at the 10K service (and do an intermediate change every 3,333 or 5,000 miles thereafter).

Have to at dealers sometimes. Use Super/Opti all the time if you can. Your car will run better on it, and any increases in per litre cost are likely to be partially offset by better fuel economy.

Simon - your car only does 7,000rpm? Jeesh, amateurs...

wrx_sti_my04

Thanks for the oil advice will advise the dealer accordingly.

Can I just swap to Opt next fill up without any re-set etc?

K9VYN

very good point i believe. even when my engine temp gauge is on normal, its a little while longer before my oil pressure gauge is out of the red - so i use this as my indication that the car is ready for fun. normall 10 - 15 minutes.

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

You wont need to do anything, the ecu will learn virtually instantly what your running and will adapt to it.

Tony

greasemonkey

No problem. FWIW Motul 200v or Mobil Super S would be as good for the 1000-10,000 mile period as Helix Plus. Probably worth avoiding Castrol Magnatec though.

Yes, the MY01=< cars react very quickly to changes in fuel grade, so no need for ECU resets or any of that palaver. Moot point anyway, as you can't reset a new age car by the same "easy" method that was available on the classics.

MarksWRX

But doesnt it say on the back of your filler flap to use Super Unleaded Fuel at all times? Does on my MY01 WRX.

Mark

toigye

cheers lads for all the advice try to catch you all when shes run in then thanks again

powerman

Scooby96
I read this one and it basically said that the first 40 or 50 miles the car should be driven hard whilst the cylinder bores are still unpolished and that in turn will bed the rings in better, but you would have to be brave when youv'e just shelled out 20k+.There was no mention of the effect this may have on the bearings etc ...Any thoughts?
powerman