IainT

Just when I thought I couldn't be surprised anymore by this wonderful stuff, it goes and does it again!
After a couple of days hard driving and hundreds of miles in France this weekend, the front end of the car (and wingmirrors) had more dead flies than an eccles cake!
Resigned myself to a hard slog to clean it off but after spraying it with a hose most of them had come off and they were really baked on there!
The rest came off with a sponge.
Anyway I'm off to coat my Wok and other cooking stuff with it to save on washing up!
Cheers
Iain

[This message has been edited by IainT (edited 19-06-2000).]

Chip

Iain,
Have just returned from France as well. Ditto the flies , just wipe away.

Only wish life was as slow over here as over there.

Chip.

MTR

MTR


[This message has been edited by MTR (edited 17 September 2000).]

IainT

MTR
yeah seen the thread.
Pound for pound ww is no more expensive than the other stuff I used to get through, ( I know as I've polished 'show' vehicles hundreds of times over the years and used everything going.
What I've got now will last me about 3 years or so with plenty of use, so I dont need any more.
Thing is though, any questions or problems you have, Mark is very helpful.
As I said in reply to your thread, use what your happy with. I certainly dont feel like I've been ripped off and I'm a tight ****!
Cheers
Iain.
ps Chip, know what you mean!

MTR

MTR

[This message has been edited by MTR (edited 17 September 2000).]

Steve Perriam

i've posted a few things about WW products and must say i'm happy with them.

even more so when you factor in customer service.

mark drove around 100 miles round trip to demonstrate his products to myself and a friend with scoobies.

MTR your thread is interesting. do they supply a full product list or just the wax at a good price ?

as you say its whatever you are happy with and i'm happy with the service mark provides at a reasonable price considering how long the stuff is gonna last. each to his own and freedom of choice and all that !!

still i'd be happy to hear from anyone who buys from one of the suppliers you mention ?

Iain - did u have a good time M8 ? you going to the Salisbury Plain meet on 2nd July ??

MTR

MTR

[This message has been edited by MTR (edited 17 September 2000).]

IainT

Steve
Yeah had a great time, probably speak to you tomorrow!
MTR
your right I'd have given it a go if I'd known as I'm poorer than poor can be too
Maybe when my tub runs out in a few years I'll get some
Cheers
Iain

APJ

Is this board just one big WW advert? Blimey, its only a bit of wax after all . . . are you folks on commission or something (and at 65 notes you should be!!)

I'm with you on this one MTR, carnuaba wax at a decent price please.

IainT

APJ
Whoa!
This was never meant to be an advert mate or to p**s people off!
(you dont have to read these threads! )
Simply telling those who haven't tried it how good it is. I suspect that you havent either as the price is £45 and is better than any other polish I've tried.
Your comments could also be applied to -Blimey is this board turning into one big ad for Subaru !?
We all enthuse about something or other. All I meant was to spread the word and if you dont like ww or fed up with the threads then dont read the them!
If MTR has enabled others to get Carnuba wax at a better price then hats off to him, thats fantastic, wish it was before I'd bought mine.
Cheers
Iain

Rich_R

I agree with Iain.

If you have a good experience with a product tell the rest of us, likewise tell us about bad experiences. Without this feedback we would have to rely on manufacturers' marketing hype or by trial and error.

When I am considering buying something Scoob related - first thing I do is check out comments from those who have tried them.

Have chosen many items such as downpipe, BB, Gauges, brakes, tyres and more based on this valuable feedback.

I'm off to buy some wax

Rich.

APJ

Iain . . .

I wasn't knocking how good the WW products are, as certainly a lot of people appear very happy with them. All I was commenting on, and a bit tongue in cheek really, was that over the past couple of weeks, there has been a number threads extolling the virtues of WW products. This bbs is most definately the place to share satisfaction or otherwise with a product or service.

Personally, I think £67 (starter pack) is steep considering the base ingredient for the product is relatively cheap. However, I too like a shiny motor, so I've nipped out and bought some of the Honeywax MTR recommended - and its under 12 notes for a pretty big tin. The results on the missus' car (think I'm gonna try it on the Scoob without testing it?! ) are pretty damn good.

Anyway, off my soapbox!

Andrew

Mark Underwood

Hi All

Carnauba wax is at one end of the scale of purity very cheap....look on a packet of smarties or minstrels etc. They have carnauba wax as a glazing (shining agent)

We use exclusively the best grade No1 yellow and some of this is fuerther refined to produce white or ivory carnauba which is very rare and per kg u get very little white carnauba. When No1 yellow is further and expensively refined white/ivory carnauba has an initial appearance of coaciane or similar. It is very powdery and very soft.

Sure I can make a wax that is cheap for a 200ml pot but I'd land up using a cheaper grade. If there was a call for such a product I might just do that but then I'd be making wax all day every day.

Each batch of wax we produce is hand blended and fully hand crafted to ensure optimum quality.

We have several other waxes under development at the moment for such people that only want to wax their cars every 3 months and that is fully detergent proof. However cos of the technologies used the resultant shine is not as good as a more standard wax in our range.

We are also developing a fibreglass wax with a high carnauba content designed for "plastic" cars and another for marine use.

Why the differenece? Cos fibreglass has totally differnt properties to a cars bodywork and the paint structure is again totally differnt.

Sure u can try a boat wax or mould release wax on yer car but dont come to me running and asking for help. Recently we have had people clean their alloy wheels with Jif and wondered wow what cleaning power but after six months are now moaning that the surface has dulled and is heavily scratched. I bet the same person used alloy wheel cleaner to clean his kitchen sink and work surfaces etc.

Met a guy the other day who swore that he used the best thing in the toilet to wipe himself was cut up newspaper. he moaned on one had that it did his piles no good but the paper was cheap and he thought he was doing good by recycling paper. He also thought that toilet tissue was expensive for the virtually the same product (paper) hence his choice in using old newspaper. Lucky sod saved a bundle but had in his favour the green issue, a sore backside and a black backside to boot as well. Luckily I refrained from dumping a load in his bog.

The moral here is the right products designed for a specific purpose will produce results that are pleasing. Any variation or substitution can cause damage either in the short term or long term.

If you are happy wiyth a mould release and or boat wax for a painted metal surface tyhen thats fine by me.

If APJ cares to place an order with for say 100 pots of wax that he can sell on for some profit to himself, I'll reduce the quantity and quality of the carnauba content and make it for lkess than 15 quid a tin that he could sell for say 20 quid.

Also many other factors need to be considered like the economies of scale. If I could gaurantee sales of around 5000 pots of merlin wax per annum then the price would tumble very considerably. The same would go for the same waxes in the merlin family like BMW, Mercedes and Audi?VW waxes. Currently our manufacturing rate is some 40 odd pots per session and is a time consumin process. The oils have to be heated and the wax has to be not quite melted to a liquid and then the temperature has to be stabilised for an hour and the constituents mixed and cooked. After cooking the wax sets very quickly indeed and the spouts have to be interchanged as they clog due to rapid setting. If I get interupted by phone calls etc the one can virtually write off a batch of wax hence why I make wax in the dead of night as I am highly unlikely to be interupted.

Our company motto is that if you are not satisfied with your purchase just return it and we will hapily refund your money or give you an exchange and we wont quibble. To date we have had to refund on one kit and when it came back it was almost all used up. The plonker applied so much wax that in 2 sessions he almost emptied the pot and the shampoo had dribbles in it (must have washed around 30 or so cars) and one towel had an iron burn mark in it!

You takes your chioce in what u use.

The threads are not to advertise my product but have been made when some users have found a good product coupled with personal customer service 7 days a week. The price can be arguable but then thats life.

Like wise you are advertising me again in your claims for a mould relaesae/boat wax. Great I love it and thanks for the plug.

Again we will soon be adding further products to the range to provide even greater cjhoice and at sensible prices. Some of the new products will be new and some will be private label and boy one will see a price drop as its the same product as a top rated TUV approved product but label with a mickey mouse brand called Wax Wizard.

I consider that my prices are fair and reasonable with high levels of customer support and freely available technical advise via this board and many others as well by phone or by email.

Good luck with your boat wax and or mould release wax. I wonder if your chandlery will use my car wax as a mould release wax as its just plain old ordinary cheap and freely available carnauba wax. I'll tell you now for free....it will make the mould nice and gloss but when its comes to releasing it will be a totally differnt story. Similary we can add anti fouling agent to a boat wax say Merlin Marine wax which will stop weed growth etc but use a car wax called merlin wax or subaru wax (nice and shiny) but bugger all protection from weed growth.

Thats my bit all said and done. Take it as u wish but I am really tired of plonkers using products designed for a purpose and using it for another and then come running to uncle wax wizard for help.

Why is it that so many people are prepared to spend mega sums of money on a car (20K plus) plus they spend a few grand on extra for a few horse power more or 2mph faster top speed but are not prepared to spend around £60 less 15% SIDC discount on properly designed products to care and look after their precious car investment. My suggestion would be to buy a cheap banger and hire an exotic car for those special occasions and return filthy dirty for someone else to clean. That way a tenner on a solvent based product on a cheap run around will not harm their pockets or wallets.

Those on a tight budget can ask us to package differently at lesser cost if required...we too are human here at Wax Wizard and can and will mould around you. Has nobody noticed that we now offer smaller sized pots of wax at less than half the cost of a full pot...the info is on ouir website.

Bye 4 now..its G&T time.
Regards
Mark (WOW)

No offence meant or implied to any
individual. If so pse accept my apologies.

Mark Underwood

Richard

Sure somebody has found a cheaper product with HIGHEST GRADE CARNAUBA WAX. The least content I use is 15% in my Liqiuid Carnauba thats designed for the bottom end of the market. In all our paste waxes the wax content starts at 40% by volume.

No one has stated the wax content of this mould release wax and it has been designed fas a mould release agent carnauba or nor carnauba.

This honey wax advertises itself as follows: "unique high gloss paste wax specially formulated for the fibreglass reinforced composites market as a mould release agent. It is compounded with the purest grade carnauba wax, PLUS special binders and spreading agents" Also "Not only is Honey Wax economical to use, it produces highly lustrous parts with excellent reproduction of detail, from the very large to the smallest, most intricate parts made with a broad range of resins such as polyester, epoxy, phenolic and urethane. Honey Wax can also withstand higher molding temperatures without oxidizing.

Its exceptional ease of application and buffing drastically reduces the labor needed for complete mold coverage and maximum gloss. This adds up to faster turnover per mold.

Honey Wax has been used successfully all over the world for more than 25 years and has become the gold standard for paste waxes in fiberglass reinforced fabrication industries such as boating and cultured marble as well as custom shops."

My car waxes are suitable for all paint types found on motor vehicles and are NOT SUITABLE AS MOULD RELEASE AGENTS. Fibreglass has totally different properties hence why we are developing a wax for fibreglass and another for marine use on fibreglass.

Good stuff this technology bit...in it.

Richard F

Cool, Mark!

I don't pretend to understand any of this chemistry type stuff but the point I was getting at was that MTR was only trying to help people (he thought) and got a fair old slap down for it.

Of all the comments made on here, I remember only 2 that said your products were good but no better than any other "decent" polish. Everybody else said they were excellent and no-one had a really bad word to say.

To be honest, if I wasn't so extremely lazy, I'd probably have bought your stuff as well. I just didn't want the BB to become the sort of place where if you don't toe the "current favourite" line, you get ostracised.

Anyway, I wasn't having any sort of pop at you as, like I said, everyone rates your stuff.

Cheers

Rider

Look, all this talk of wax is all well and good, but what about lazy buggers like me? I can't be arsed standing around in the rain that inevitably pours the minute I decide to wash the car, scrabbling away trying to polish it.
What about a product that does it quickly, and will still leave the car looking nice? Any ideas?

carl

Mark,

I understand why you sent out only half bottles as 'freebies' -- I was just pointing out that I seemed to use a lot and didn't want to make the same mistake with the 'real' stuff.

I'm sure your advice about the Saab is sound, but I sold it when I bought the Scoob, so if the new owner reads this site he'll know how to make it look pretty.

I'll certainly be following your advice this weekend with the Merlin wax, providing the weather holds up. Perhaps it's just me, but even though I paid EU import prices I'm not prepared to stick aircraft-grade wax of unknown content on my six-month old car just to save a few bob. If the results are as good as the Zym*l'd cars I've seen, that'll be 60 quid well spent (I reckon I can recover that in time not wasted trying to scrape the dead flies off).

Mossman

I've held back posting for a while now, both on this thread and the thread about "High Grade Wax for ...". However, I feel I can comment now that Mark has.

The bottom line is that I agree with everything he says. Aha, you may say! Mossman sells/promotes Wax Wizard himself! YES I DO!!! The reason? Because I think it's bloody good stuff, gives a superb finish, is seriously cost effective, has customer service second to none and above all, if people want to see the stuff in their hands and have a play with it, why not? I attend a lot of the northern/Midland meets and track days, and Mark cannot drive all the way from Plymouth everytime. I do it as a favour too Mark as he's a decent bloke. It's not a job for me, it's just helping people out.

At the end of the day CHOICE is the overiding factor. NO ONE is forced to buy WW products. Likewise, Pete C does not force me to use him for servicing my car. Likewise, Mike @ scoobymania does not bully me to get brake pads from him and nor does Graham Goode for headlamp protectors!

I like WW products. Therefore I use them and help Mark out every now and again. My choice, fullstop.

If people want to use other products not designed for the job, fair play. Your choice. I hope they work, I really do.

So there you go. My opinions, nobody elses!

All the very best to everyone!

Jon.

carl

Mark,

I am not 'the plonker' but I am a plonker when it comes to waxing cars. I used to have a Saab with knackered paint because I couldn't be bothered to wash or polish it.

Anyway, when I used your cleanse no.1/liquid carnauba free sample to do the bonnets of my car and the wife's Saxo, I did seem to get through quite a lot of both (mind you they were only half-full to start with). The result wasn't much better than the factory polish, but then both cars are silver.

I've just received your Merlin starter kit, and don't want to make any mistakes. Can you give advice for the novice as to how much to apply, how much pressure, etc? Perhaps it's worth including 'common mistakes' in the product literature that comes with it. Also, when you say 'with a side-to-side motion', do you mean 'side to side as seen from the front of the car' or 'side to side as seen from the side' or doesn't it matter?

Hoping it's not raining this weekend...

J_Birks

I have read with interest the developing threads on the subject of Carnuba wax, my experience of WW products started when Zymol was first mentioned on the BB by Lee (I think) I gave them a call and recived a starter kit, I have a DBM MY99 and was a dedicated autoglym user(now all given away to family & friends), when I first used the starter kit the results were brilliant, I have my car valeted by a local company every two weeks and the guy who does it has used lots of different waxes, polishes etc and he is very impressed at the depth of shine given by Marks products, so after using the wax for over a year I still have at least half a pot left so should last me at least 2 years waxing twice a month so that is just over 50p an application (not bad in my book).

So as has been said before you pay your money you take your choice.

Me I will stick with the WW thanks

Jason

Richard F

Blimey guys! Chill out a bit!

You can't really blame someone if they think they've found a way to save a fair amount of money and they want to pass it on. I've not used WW and I've not bought the cheaper wax stuff that MTR was on about but he's only telling people that he's found it to be a useful product and it's relatively cheap.

Personally, the way I look after my car is to not wax it at all. Ever. Because I'm very very lazy. That's my choice and if I do polish it I use Autoglym just because it goes on easily and it's easy to get hold and it's not too pricey (especially if you only use it once a year!).

As I understand it, the BB is about helping people and passing on useful info. MTR was only doing this. Sometimes people on here seem to get a bit too aggressive in the defence of something.

Anyway, enough of that.

PS. Hi Jon! How's things? Want any suspension?!

Mark Underwood

Carl

The sample u had was our gentlest cleanse and our cheapest carnauba wax product. You got half bottles as I was not prepared to send out full bottles. Also when the samples were sent out we did not enquire as to the state of ones paintwork,

Your saab's paintwork sounds as though it was totally knackered and had dried out and what we call "oxydised". This happens thru a variety of uses namely solvent burn (solvents suck out the natural oils in the paint) and also due to weathering effects causing the same problem.

To remedy this one first cleanse's the paint with something like cleanse no2 which has stronger mix of emulsifying agents and some more oils added. This will then remove the dead paint and begin to repair the damage if any like swirls etc. Had I done your bonnet I would have used cleanse No4 which is in ouir bodyshop range and is too viscous for joe public to use.

After cleansing one then ideally needs to replenishing the lost oils and for this we have a product called Superior Hand Wax n Polish. It has 3% wax content and 97% emollient oil. This product is massaged or rubbed into the paint and allowed to dry anywhere up to a few hours as the oils take time to sink in. With each coat of this product the deep wet look gloss will deep and become more noticable on dark coloured paints especially those that have no clearcoats. The result will be a silky smooth finish with a real depth of clarity and gloss and one which as a results has few if any marks left in the paint. This because the oil sinks in and revitalises the paint giving it body and therefore the swirls etc self heal. ( No doubt somebody will use this product to wash their hair to gain extra body)

One then seals the gloss in with a layer or layers of wax. Wax is the sacrificial node here as no single wax or polish will last forever as THEY ALL DIMINISH OVER TIME INCLUDING MY WAXES.

A proper cleansing will reduce or even eliminate all the swirl marks and rejuvenate the paint but in bad cases like your saab it will require stage 2. Then followed by waxing.

It may seem a long winded way of doing things but really we are using reverse technology....putting back in what has been taken out.

The usual way of doing your saab would be to T-Cut and then perhaps use a solvent based product to suck out yet more oil. The T Cut shaves off the dead paint together with a lower layer and uses substances like ammonia to aid itself for the cleaning. At worst the car would have been resprayed at huge expense. By T Cuting etc all one is doing is revealing a deep rich coloured layer of paint but it is still lacking in oils that provide the texture etc. Usually in my experience such paint work is again fading or blooming after a short while and out again comes the T Cut to remove yet more paint. The number of paint jobs I have seen this year alone on solid colour paint jobs where the wrong product has been used that so much top layers of paint have been removed that the undercoat is exposed.


Re your kit. Use the cleanse and work well into the paint surface in a straight line motion ie back and forth following the lines of the car. For example if u were doing the bonnet start at the rear edge working in fore and aft movements using medium pressure to sink the emulsifiers and oils into the paint. Do no more than half a bonnet in one sitting therefore keeping the working area reasonable and managable. When you have gotten to the front edge take one of the towels supplied and buff the area worked. One can buff b4 the product dries or u can allow it to dry and then buff. I prefer the former whilst so many people are used to doing the later hence the instructions.

On areas like your doors ensure that your application motion is up and down. If u are right handed start with the left hand front wing and work your way around the car. Why up and down? cos any scratches that YOU may cause by use of dirty cloths etc the scratches will be less obvious when light hits them. Wall paper is hung vertically and the joins are very difficult to see. Hang wallpaper horizontally and you will see every layer. Its all to do with light refraction etc.

On bonnet, roof and boot work the product in a back and forth motion ie fore and aft. Do one side first then do the other side.

After you have cleansed the car put the cleanse away for 6 months and repeat the exercise but second and subsequent times it will be merely wipe on and wipe off unless to have some minor markings. There is no harm done at all in cleansing more often if u want to. Wash the white applicator and towel in a normal wash cycle but refrain from using fabric softners.

After u have cleansed wax the car. Take yer blue sponge applicator and wipe across the surface of the wax. Spread the wax out on a panel as far as you can. One wipe across the surface is more than enough for doing a door panel or front wing. DO ONE PANEL AT A TIME.
Start say with a front wing...apply the wax to the whole wing and then staright away buff to a shine using the second towel. Fold the towel in half and in half again and it will be like a large pad the size of A4 paper. Place your hand on the pad and spread yer fingers. With light to medium pressure buff briskly. When u have done the whole ideally wax again to form a skin. Either after the first application of wax or the second one finish off buff gently buffing every panel. Wash towel as above.

Allow towels and white applictor to air dry and store somewhere clean and dry. The blue applicator is to be stored in the plastic bag supplied ensuring that the air has been squeezed out the bag b4 sealing it.

Wax at least once per month or more often if u wish to maintain optimum gloss and protection. After every wash ensure that u apply some wax to your front high impact areas like mirror casings, headlamps, driving lamps, number plate and front airdam.
This will ensure the very easy removal of bug splatter with just plian water and a sponge when next washing or with a towel if not washing. This tip is featured in the latest addition of our manual.

Any other questions fire away by email or call me on 0800 074 1608 office hours or 0402 822544 weekends and bank holidays.

Regards
Mark
WOW

PS Have fun.

Mark Underwood

Rider

if u care to call me I will happily send you a wee sample of some Cleaner Wax..it cleanses and waxes in one step and is solvent and abrasive free. £8.50 for a large bottle.

Nightmare

Rider,

I recommend installing an 'easily manipulated girlfriend'
Mine washes waxes and comes off easily....



Night

lokokkee

Mark, I can imagine you donning a "Merlin the wizard" coat and cap, stirring your magical wax potions in a giant couldron in the middle of the night. Don't your neighbours suspect you are up to no good? BTW, do you have a long flowing white beard to add to the effect?
Cheers.

Steve Perriam

lokokkee - he might sell excellent wax but even i'm not sure he's Father Christmas re-incarnate

he certainly didn't have a white long flowy beard when he visited me !

perhaps it only comes out on special occasions

Richard F : i dont think anyone was trying to 'slap' MTR down. we're all just giving our real world experiences of WW products.

Then Mark gives the technical specifications of its abilities, which none of us poor thick IT bods can understand

anyway this must be the best sort of publicity mark could wish for !

Rider : i used to be the same but decided that after spending over 20k on a new MY00 scoob (much the amusement, or perhaps that should be horror, of many people i know) it was worth a few hours here and there to keep it clean and looking gr8 for when i want my local dealer to give me a damn good price on a MY01 scoob )

Night : can u recommend an outlet that supplies that particular product at a reasonable (ie around 50p per waxing )cost !

cheers

steve

bob

Steve/
When trading in your nice clean shinny scoob don't be surprised if the dealer gives you a price without looking at the car. Mine did not give a dam and could not care less that I spent hours in Charlie Brown's car wash. Just to keep it clean and shinny. He did not give me any extra just cause it was clean.
Bob
PS/ I did polish it once but that was when it was new. Don't know what polish I used and did not care.

Steve Perriam

i expect your right bob.

but one can always hope !!

and as long at its a top price i wont mind if he looks at it or not !