Jap 95' WRX max boost?
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
How much can a standard 95' Jap WRX run.
0.7 As standard?
If you get close to 1.0 will you need bigger fuel pump / injectors?
Even at 0.9 What happens to the standard ECU - will the car judder when driving hard from fuel starvation even if running optimax?
Many questions - just want to know how much you can tune a Jap 240bhp WRX & what should be the 1st mods to consider in the engine dept...
Cheers
0.7 As standard?
If you get close to 1.0 will you need bigger fuel pump / injectors?
Even at 0.9 What happens to the standard ECU - will the car judder when driving hard from fuel starvation even if running optimax?
Many questions - just want to know how much you can tune a Jap 240bhp WRX & what should be the 1st mods to consider in the engine dept...
Cheers
#2
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0.8 bar standard, with boost cut at a smidgen over 1.1 bar. get a reliable boost guage, knocklink and afr meter if you want to mess about with boost settings. i am currently running about 1.1 bar on WOT in 1st to 4th gear and have to blip the throttle in 5th as the boost cut sometimes comes in depending on how cold it is outside i stuck an adjustable fuel reg on to be safe, the 370cc injectors will be maxed out at about 300bhp so you should be safe enough. best upgrade you will do to your car is stick on a downpipe (i personally have a H&S) as it will free up some horsepower but more importantly loadsa torque. another thing i would do is get some NF black bottle, again i run 100ml per tank. this should eliminate detonation to a great degree although most imports have the ecu adjusted to run on SUL. i wouldnt run my 95 JDM on anything less than SUL as that is only asking for trouble. oh by BTW if you have a late MY95 WRX then the official figure is 260PS (256bhp on 100ron fuel).
cheers
big sinky
[Edited by bigsinky - 12/13/2003 8:22:29 PM]
cheers
big sinky
[Edited by bigsinky - 12/13/2003 8:22:29 PM]
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks!
I'm in the process of buyin my 1st WRX so sorry to sound daft.. but I am at the moment to be honest... Sorry to be a pain but..
"0.8 bar standard, with boost cut at a smidgen over 1.1 bar. get a reliable boost guage, knocklink and afr meter if you want to mess about with boost settings."
This 'boost cut' is this an automatic limiter preset?
knocklink - sorry what is this (only used to injection cars)
"i am currently running about 1.1 bar on WOT in 1st to 4th gear and have to blip the throttle in 5th as the boost cut sometimes comes in depending on how cold it is outside"
Waht is 'WOT' so you also get the 'hesitation'?
"i stuck an adjustable fuel reg on to be safe, the 370cc injectors will be maxed out at about 300bhp so you should be safe enough. best upgrade you will do to your car is stick on a downpipe (i personally have a H&S) as it will free up some horsepower but more importantly loadsa torque."
"I have been told the car has an even leghth manifold - is this the same thing? - This downpipe - will this cost ?"
"another thing i would do is get some NF black bottle, again i run 100ml per tank. this should eliminate detonation to a great degree although most imports have the ecu adjusted to run on SUL. "
So I can run on optimax & add an octane booster?
Is it better to change the ECU or will this affect my topo end whack?
Sorry for the questions, it is really helping me out
Thanks again!
I'm in the process of buyin my 1st WRX so sorry to sound daft.. but I am at the moment to be honest... Sorry to be a pain but..
"0.8 bar standard, with boost cut at a smidgen over 1.1 bar. get a reliable boost guage, knocklink and afr meter if you want to mess about with boost settings."
This 'boost cut' is this an automatic limiter preset?
knocklink - sorry what is this (only used to injection cars)
"i am currently running about 1.1 bar on WOT in 1st to 4th gear and have to blip the throttle in 5th as the boost cut sometimes comes in depending on how cold it is outside"
Waht is 'WOT' so you also get the 'hesitation'?
"i stuck an adjustable fuel reg on to be safe, the 370cc injectors will be maxed out at about 300bhp so you should be safe enough. best upgrade you will do to your car is stick on a downpipe (i personally have a H&S) as it will free up some horsepower but more importantly loadsa torque."
"I have been told the car has an even leghth manifold - is this the same thing? - This downpipe - will this cost ?"
"another thing i would do is get some NF black bottle, again i run 100ml per tank. this should eliminate detonation to a great degree although most imports have the ecu adjusted to run on SUL. "
So I can run on optimax & add an octane booster?
Is it better to change the ECU or will this affect my topo end whack?
Sorry for the questions, it is really helping me out
Thanks again!
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2002
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so many questions there are alot more knowledgeable people on here but i will help you as best i can.
boost cut - yes preset in ecu to prevent engine meltdown (16-17 psi i think). not nice in the middle of an overtaking maneuver. after you extract your head from the windscreen (yes the cut is that violent) just remember to blip the throttle in 5th.
knocklink - if you are serious about modding your car then this is a must (ask anyone with a modded JDM, john banks, andy f, rich wild et al). the unit is as i understand a microphone placed on or near engine head. it detects detonation (which can seriously kill your engine) and relays the noise to a small black box with lights on. about £150 IIRC.
WOT - is Wide Open Throttle i.e full boost or when you are givin the car what for. if your boost is only set at standard then you should experience NO hesitation.
Even length manifold and downpipes are NOT the same thing. the downpipe you have on at the moment has a very restrictive neck and a catalitic converter in it. a decatted downpipe will have a wide (and i mean wide) neck and no cat. it is usually 3inch tapering to 2.5 inches as it meets the mid section. Hayward and Scott (regarded by many as one of the best) do a downpipe for around the £200 mark. then you have to get it fitted. some of the bolts can be a real ba$tard to get off so allow some more money to have it fitted properly.
I would run AT LEAST optimax. if i was you, until you got a remap of the ecu i would also be on the safe side and use octane booster as well.(this is where the knocklink saves your bacon. an extra £1.50 per tank is cheaper than a new engine)
If you can afford a new ecu like Link or gems or ecutec then this will improve your car no end. it can be mapped to run on 98 ron, the bhp, boost, torque, emmissions, ignition advance/retardation and a crap load of other parameters can all be user set with a laptop computer. as you add mods to the car you can reset to get the best out of that particular mod.
hope this has helped.
cheers
big sinky
editted for mucho crappo spelling
[Edited by bigsinky - 12/13/2003 9:45:44 PM]
boost cut - yes preset in ecu to prevent engine meltdown (16-17 psi i think). not nice in the middle of an overtaking maneuver. after you extract your head from the windscreen (yes the cut is that violent) just remember to blip the throttle in 5th.
knocklink - if you are serious about modding your car then this is a must (ask anyone with a modded JDM, john banks, andy f, rich wild et al). the unit is as i understand a microphone placed on or near engine head. it detects detonation (which can seriously kill your engine) and relays the noise to a small black box with lights on. about £150 IIRC.
WOT - is Wide Open Throttle i.e full boost or when you are givin the car what for. if your boost is only set at standard then you should experience NO hesitation.
Even length manifold and downpipes are NOT the same thing. the downpipe you have on at the moment has a very restrictive neck and a catalitic converter in it. a decatted downpipe will have a wide (and i mean wide) neck and no cat. it is usually 3inch tapering to 2.5 inches as it meets the mid section. Hayward and Scott (regarded by many as one of the best) do a downpipe for around the £200 mark. then you have to get it fitted. some of the bolts can be a real ba$tard to get off so allow some more money to have it fitted properly.
I would run AT LEAST optimax. if i was you, until you got a remap of the ecu i would also be on the safe side and use octane booster as well.(this is where the knocklink saves your bacon. an extra £1.50 per tank is cheaper than a new engine)
If you can afford a new ecu like Link or gems or ecutec then this will improve your car no end. it can be mapped to run on 98 ron, the bhp, boost, torque, emmissions, ignition advance/retardation and a crap load of other parameters can all be user set with a laptop computer. as you add mods to the car you can reset to get the best out of that particular mod.
hope this has helped.
cheers
big sinky
editted for mucho crappo spelling
[Edited by bigsinky - 12/13/2003 9:45:44 PM]
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