Battery voltage issue?
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Battery voltage issue?
Hi all,
About 6 weeks ago, my battery was completely proper flat. It's about 4 years old or so, Yuasa.
When it went flat, I hadn't driven it for about 5 / 6 weeks, so charged it with my CTek
Since charging the battery, I've only driven in once every two weeks I guess, but this time I don't think the battery can be saved this time.
Last few times I've driven it, the idle goes very low, and today I noticed the BV battery voltage on my PSi 3 has been fluctuating. I'm pretty sure that usually on idle, the PSi3 shows around 14 - 14.2 volts, even when idling - regardless of electrical load like wipers / lights etc.
The belt is tight / not squealing.
Does the below video I've uploaded show signs of the battery struggling and needs replacing, or perhaps the alternator? Both?
it's about 3 mins long, and a bit boring! But if you could have a watch that would be great.
The battery volts (BV) seem to actually increase a little when I load the battery up, but at times it's showed 11.5v approx with no load on it.
The car doesn't drive very nice, and sometimes idles so low it almost cuts out.
I'm not sure if BV is what's going into the battery, or what's coming out.
I've done around 160 miles in a week, and the BV is behaving as the video I made below :
About 6 weeks ago, my battery was completely proper flat. It's about 4 years old or so, Yuasa.
When it went flat, I hadn't driven it for about 5 / 6 weeks, so charged it with my CTek
Since charging the battery, I've only driven in once every two weeks I guess, but this time I don't think the battery can be saved this time.
Last few times I've driven it, the idle goes very low, and today I noticed the BV battery voltage on my PSi 3 has been fluctuating. I'm pretty sure that usually on idle, the PSi3 shows around 14 - 14.2 volts, even when idling - regardless of electrical load like wipers / lights etc.
The belt is tight / not squealing.
Does the below video I've uploaded show signs of the battery struggling and needs replacing, or perhaps the alternator? Both?
it's about 3 mins long, and a bit boring! But if you could have a watch that would be great.
The battery volts (BV) seem to actually increase a little when I load the battery up, but at times it's showed 11.5v approx with no load on it.
The car doesn't drive very nice, and sometimes idles so low it almost cuts out.
I'm not sure if BV is what's going into the battery, or what's coming out.
I've done around 160 miles in a week, and the BV is behaving as the video I made below :
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
[QUOTE=Hawkeye D;12131857]Hi all,
About 6 weeks ago, my battery was completely proper flat. It's about 4 years old or so, Yuasa.
When it went flat, I hadn't driven it for about 5 / 6 weeks, so charged it with my CTek
Since charging the battery, I've only driven in once every two weeks I guess, but this time I don't think the battery can be saved this time.
Last few times I've driven it, the idle goes very low, and today I noticed the BV battery voltage on my PSi 3 has been fluctuating. I'm pretty sure that usually on idle, the PSi3 shows around 14 - 14.2 volts, even when idling - regardless of electrical load like wipers / lights etc.
The belt is tight / not squealing.
Does the below video I've uploaded show signs of the battery struggling and needs replacing, or perhaps the alternator? Both?
it's about 3 mins long, and a bit boring! But if you could have a watch that would be great.
The battery volts (BV) seem to actually increase a little when I load the battery up, but at times it's showed 11.5v approx with no load on it.
The car doesn't drive very nice, and sometimes idles so low it almost cuts out.
I'm not sure if BV is what's going into the battery, or what's coming out.
I've done around 160 miles in a week, and the BV is behaving as the video I made below :
[/QUOTE
When your fans kick in your voltage is climbing which indicates the alternator is behaving as it should. Does it start ok and how long before it goes flat.
About 6 weeks ago, my battery was completely proper flat. It's about 4 years old or so, Yuasa.
When it went flat, I hadn't driven it for about 5 / 6 weeks, so charged it with my CTek
Since charging the battery, I've only driven in once every two weeks I guess, but this time I don't think the battery can be saved this time.
Last few times I've driven it, the idle goes very low, and today I noticed the BV battery voltage on my PSi 3 has been fluctuating. I'm pretty sure that usually on idle, the PSi3 shows around 14 - 14.2 volts, even when idling - regardless of electrical load like wipers / lights etc.
The belt is tight / not squealing.
Does the below video I've uploaded show signs of the battery struggling and needs replacing, or perhaps the alternator? Both?
it's about 3 mins long, and a bit boring! But if you could have a watch that would be great.
The battery volts (BV) seem to actually increase a little when I load the battery up, but at times it's showed 11.5v approx with no load on it.
The car doesn't drive very nice, and sometimes idles so low it almost cuts out.
I'm not sure if BV is what's going into the battery, or what's coming out.
I've done around 160 miles in a week, and the BV is behaving as the video I made below :
When your fans kick in your voltage is climbing which indicates the alternator is behaving as it should. Does it start ok and how long before it goes flat.
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I guess I drove it once a week or two, but wasn't slow cranking, starts fine.
Last night I checked the battery terminals, all tight, and with my volt meter the volts with engine off were 12.89v
This morning, checked the battery with volt meter, 12.69v and it started fine, went to about 1200 RPM when I started it, and BV on the PSI3 went to 14.2v
I can see the bright green dye through the battery sight glass on the top.
I'm stumped. I did have some loud beeps, which I think perhaps it was more of an alert that the bonnet was open, but I wasn't trying to lock it. I simply unlock it, pop the bonnet, then when I turn on the ignition I get the door / bonnet open warning beeps - different to the theft alarm sound.
I had this a few weeks ago, it's like the car thinks I'm trying to lock it with the bonnet up - I think it does this when I turn the key in the ignition.
I have no CEL, and the battery light on the dash goes out straight away upon starting.
The earth on the inlet manifold and on the inside of the wing near the battery are tight, and so is the nut on the power lead coming from the alternator.
I don't know where to start with my low idle, it almost cut out a few times yesterday, then the rev counter jolted back up to about 850 RPM
The car is drive by wire throttle.
Maybe the video above is because of the low idle I'm seeing the BV readings caused by the low idle, but what can cause such a low idle?? and then it creeps back up to normal RPM again...it's a bit like a cycle.
Something I've noticed, but could also be related - I've seen on a few cold starts that the PSi3 shows the letters and numbers in Japanese...it's not just random gobbledy gook like you sometimes see on an LCD display, it looks Japanese. Then suddenly goes back to English letters and numbers.
I wonder if the battery going totally flat several weeks ago gave the car the mother of all ECU resets?
It's a standard ECU and was mapped several years ago.
Last night I checked the battery terminals, all tight, and with my volt meter the volts with engine off were 12.89v
This morning, checked the battery with volt meter, 12.69v and it started fine, went to about 1200 RPM when I started it, and BV on the PSI3 went to 14.2v
I can see the bright green dye through the battery sight glass on the top.
I'm stumped. I did have some loud beeps, which I think perhaps it was more of an alert that the bonnet was open, but I wasn't trying to lock it. I simply unlock it, pop the bonnet, then when I turn on the ignition I get the door / bonnet open warning beeps - different to the theft alarm sound.
I had this a few weeks ago, it's like the car thinks I'm trying to lock it with the bonnet up - I think it does this when I turn the key in the ignition.
I have no CEL, and the battery light on the dash goes out straight away upon starting.
The earth on the inlet manifold and on the inside of the wing near the battery are tight, and so is the nut on the power lead coming from the alternator.
I don't know where to start with my low idle, it almost cut out a few times yesterday, then the rev counter jolted back up to about 850 RPM
The car is drive by wire throttle.
Maybe the video above is because of the low idle I'm seeing the BV readings caused by the low idle, but what can cause such a low idle?? and then it creeps back up to normal RPM again...it's a bit like a cycle.
Something I've noticed, but could also be related - I've seen on a few cold starts that the PSi3 shows the letters and numbers in Japanese...it's not just random gobbledy gook like you sometimes see on an LCD display, it looks Japanese. Then suddenly goes back to English letters and numbers.
I wonder if the battery going totally flat several weeks ago gave the car the mother of all ECU resets?
It's a standard ECU and was mapped several years ago.
Last edited by Hawkeye D; 28 May 2023 at 06:13 AM.
#4
Scooby Regular
When you re-charged your battery did you use the "recond" (recondition) option available on most CTek units?
How long did you charge it for? Did it reach position 7 on the scale?
Have you a battery tester to check if it's CCA value is close to or matches that quoted for the battery after it's been charged??
(cheap enough to buy on Amazon)
Quoted idle RPM in manual is 700+/- 100
generator/alternator info (yellow highlighted)
Your alternator is the same version as used for the MY08-14Hatch/Saloon models with the MY15 on models getting a 130A output version
How long did you charge it for? Did it reach position 7 on the scale?
Have you a battery tester to check if it's CCA value is close to or matches that quoted for the battery after it's been charged??
(cheap enough to buy on Amazon)
Quoted idle RPM in manual is 700+/- 100
generator/alternator info (yellow highlighted)
Your alternator is the same version as used for the MY08-14Hatch/Saloon models with the MY15 on models getting a 130A output version
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Ah, didn't realise I had a recond option on the CTek...yes mine has that function.
I'll pop it on charge today and see what happens.
When I charged it several weeks ago, yes it went to 7 on the CTek, I left it charging overnight.
I feel like torching the car with aviation fuel to be honest!
I'll pop it on charge today and see what happens.
When I charged it several weeks ago, yes it went to 7 on the CTek, I left it charging overnight.
I feel like torching the car with aviation fuel to be honest!
Last edited by Hawkeye D; 28 May 2023 at 07:58 AM.
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So fully charged it today with the recond function on the CTek.
Idles a little better, but will see how time goes.
4k RPM and the BV shows 13.5v - 13.8v....still not the usual 14.2v that it always was.
Perhaps this will drop soon over time.
The RPM's also seem to drop when I switch off everything electrical, lights, heater fan etc.
Need to get my battery tested.
Idles a little better, but will see how time goes.
4k RPM and the BV shows 13.5v - 13.8v....still not the usual 14.2v that it always was.
Perhaps this will drop soon over time.
The RPM's also seem to drop when I switch off everything electrical, lights, heater fan etc.
Need to get my battery tested.
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#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
So fully charged it today with the recond function on the CTek.
Idles a little better, but will see how time goes.
4k RPM and the BV shows 13.5v - 13.8v....still not the usual 14.2v that it always was.
Perhaps this will drop soon over time.
The RPM's also seem to drop when I switch off everything electrical, lights, heater fan etc.
Need to get my battery tested.
Idles a little better, but will see how time goes.
4k RPM and the BV shows 13.5v - 13.8v....still not the usual 14.2v that it always was.
Perhaps this will drop soon over time.
The RPM's also seem to drop when I switch off everything electrical, lights, heater fan etc.
Need to get my battery tested.
Then if you flick say your side lights on the car/alternator is smart enough to draw more power and up the revs that few 100 at idle
#9
Scooby Regular
Yuasa usually comes with 5 years warranty, it could getting worst when cold around October. Mine is feed by aa solar panel, better that than get it flat.
New battery costs 65 quid,stop moaning for nothing.
New battery costs 65 quid,stop moaning for nothing.
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Anyone used Exide before?
It has the same 65ah as the Yuasa, and 580 CCA compared to 550
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea654/
It has the same 65ah as the Yuasa, and 580 CCA compared to 550
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea654/
#11
Scooby Regular
Yuasa is 580 CCA
https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yua...005-8558-p.asp
OEM spec for the batteries are for
MT: "55D23L", 55AH, anything above that is a bonus.
AT: "65D23L", 65AH
https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yua...005-8558-p.asp
OEM spec for the batteries are for
MT: "55D23L", 55AH, anything above that is a bonus.
AT: "65D23L", 65AH
Last edited by Don Clark; 30 May 2023 at 07:22 PM.
#13
Scooby Regular
Having had my battery in the car on Ctek for a week, (Showing 12.6V on scangauge before startup), I took it out for a warmup and then recorded a short movie on tick over with A/C on. (attached)
Bearing in mind both the Hawkeye and MY11 Saloon use the same alternator (23700AA522) but different ECU's.
Last edited by Don Clark; 06 June 2023 at 12:02 PM.
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Ah cool thanks Don. I'd say I'm probably losing about 3 or so volts on tick over - comparing the 2 videos.
I'm not sure though if the battery itself is my issue, or the alternator.
At times, the engine nearly stalls....particularly when reversing, then the RPM's jolt back up to about 850 rpm....would a shot battery cause that?
On a PSI3, I don't know if BV means what's going into the battery, or what the battery is kicking out?
A couple of observations... I haven't started the car or charged it in just over a week. Putting my multimeter on the terminals, I got at first 12.56v just over a week ago and now 12.10v
So it's holding charge? But....the green indicator ball seems to have dropped a good few inches...it's like it's at the bottom on the tube it sits in.
I noticed the green ball had dropped before I tried the CTek recond function, but the ball hasn't risen.
I'm not sure though if the battery itself is my issue, or the alternator.
At times, the engine nearly stalls....particularly when reversing, then the RPM's jolt back up to about 850 rpm....would a shot battery cause that?
On a PSI3, I don't know if BV means what's going into the battery, or what the battery is kicking out?
A couple of observations... I haven't started the car or charged it in just over a week. Putting my multimeter on the terminals, I got at first 12.56v just over a week ago and now 12.10v
So it's holding charge? But....the green indicator ball seems to have dropped a good few inches...it's like it's at the bottom on the tube it sits in.
I noticed the green ball had dropped before I tried the CTek recond function, but the ball hasn't risen.
#15
Scooby Regular
Battery Voltage is the system voltage with or without the alternator running so roughly 12-14 volts and is read via the obd port and ecu.
It's all connected
Have you seen this before? Your battery went from roughly fully charged to about 55% charged during that week.
I gave up with the green indicator a long time ago.
I believe the MY07 STi has a tracker fitted? so could add to the drain.
What I did notice in your video is that the voltage dropped dramatically to under 12v and took a long long time for the alternator to cut in and when it did, barely gets above 13.6v.
In mine as soon as it started at 12.6v (not shown in vid) it was over 14v in an instant and barely wavered from 14v. As I said before the a/c is on all the time with the fans running.
I get the feeling that your alternator regulator may be on its way out, but I would check all the wire connections and ground points first (especially the alternator mounting points which act as earths for the unit.
It's all connected
Have you seen this before? Your battery went from roughly fully charged to about 55% charged during that week.
I gave up with the green indicator a long time ago.
I believe the MY07 STi has a tracker fitted? so could add to the drain.
What I did notice in your video is that the voltage dropped dramatically to under 12v and took a long long time for the alternator to cut in and when it did, barely gets above 13.6v.
In mine as soon as it started at 12.6v (not shown in vid) it was over 14v in an instant and barely wavered from 14v. As I said before the a/c is on all the time with the fans running.
I get the feeling that your alternator regulator may be on its way out, but I would check all the wire connections and ground points first (especially the alternator mounting points which act as earths for the unit.
#16
Scooby Regular
On the subject of batteries is the Yuasa battery a better option than the Bosch S4, my Bosch battery struggled all winter, it's 5 yr old and it's never been the same since it went flat after being parked up for a few wks so looking to get a new one b4 this winter, sorry to hijack the thread.
#17
Scooby Regular
On the subject of batteries is the Yuasa battery a better option than the Bosch S4, my Bosch battery struggled all winter, it's 5 yr old and it's never been the same since it went flat after being parked up for a few wks so looking to get a new one b4 this winter, sorry to hijack the thread.
It all depends upon how you treat/look after it. (Keeping it above 40% charge (above chart), de-sulphating ( CTek reconditioning setting) at least once a year all helps to prolong its life.
#18
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
On the subject of batteries is the Yuasa battery a better option than the Bosch S4, my Bosch battery struggled all winter, it's 5 yr old and it's never been the same since it went flat after being parked up for a few wks so looking to get a new one b4 this winter, sorry to hijack the thread.
I was a bit disappointed when someone on here told me to stop moaning about nothing, but it's a public forum so is what it is lol
#20
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
On the subject of batteries is the Yuasa battery a better option than the Bosch S4, my Bosch battery struggled all winter, it's 5 yr old and it's never been the same since it went flat after being parked up for a few wks so looking to get a new one b4 this winter, sorry to hijack the thread.
#21
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I'm not sure if a duff battery would cause my idling issues though....
If it can start the car, I can't see why it would idle really low then ping back up to 850 rpm
If it can start the car, I can't see why it would idle really low then ping back up to 850 rpm
#22
Scooby Regular
It is possibly the ECU receiving bad / unstable signals or poor earth returns
Check the ECU earth terminals on the top of the inlet manifold, the battery - terminal to inner left wing earth, and make sure the inlet manifold to right wing link is in place.
ENGINE GROUNDS RHD DOHC TURBO MODEL
And maybe examine the Engine loom to bulkhead loom connectors E56 and E3 for dirty connections. (shown on both wiring diagrams above.)
If all this fails you could replace the alternator regulator...........
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/oen...3815aa160.html
#23
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thank you very much for that Don, gives me more depth to check into.
I've not seen the battery light on the dash whilst driving.
I'll check earths / connections E56 / E3 first.
Replace battery, then fingers crossed.....last resort regulator.
TBH it wouldn't hurt to get a new battery after the few recent full discharges it's had.
I've not seen the battery light on the dash whilst driving.
I'll check earths / connections E56 / E3 first.
Replace battery, then fingers crossed.....last resort regulator.
TBH it wouldn't hurt to get a new battery after the few recent full discharges it's had.
#25
Scooby Regular
I was told connect a normal stop light bulb between the battery connector terminal and the clamp/ lead , then the time consuming part , pull one fuse at a time until the bulb goes less bright and that’s your source of the battery drain , a tail light bulb with minimal battery drain will be on but not as bright as fully lit up 👍😁
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#26
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
I was told connect a normal stop light bulb between the battery connector terminal and the clamp/ lead , then the time consuming part , pull one fuse at a time until the bulb goes less bright and that’s your source of the battery drain , a tail light bulb with minimal battery drain will be on but not as bright as fully lit up 👍😁
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