OSR adjuster cog
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Aldershot
OSR adjuster cog
Hi all,
2007 STi.
I need to adjust my handbrake as the OSR wheel is seizing again. It's where corrosion has got inside the assembly, and it's pushing the handbrake shoe mounting area outwards at the bottom, like it's blowing out from behind it at the bottom. It's almost like an inner plate where the shoes fix to.
Using the cog from behind the backing plate won't work as the shoes are out of kilter.
Wheel off tomorrow, and hopefully the disc drum will come off easily. I'll bash back the shoe mounting area best I can, wire brush it and use some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and probably Stonechip paint to try and slow the corrosion down.
Question is, as I look at the cog on the bottom for adjustment, which way do the shoes move with moving the cog up or down?
Is it downwards to pull the shoes in, or upwards to pull the shoes in?
2007 STi.
I need to adjust my handbrake as the OSR wheel is seizing again. It's where corrosion has got inside the assembly, and it's pushing the handbrake shoe mounting area outwards at the bottom, like it's blowing out from behind it at the bottom. It's almost like an inner plate where the shoes fix to.
Using the cog from behind the backing plate won't work as the shoes are out of kilter.
Wheel off tomorrow, and hopefully the disc drum will come off easily. I'll bash back the shoe mounting area best I can, wire brush it and use some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and probably Stonechip paint to try and slow the corrosion down.
Question is, as I look at the cog on the bottom for adjustment, which way do the shoes move with moving the cog up or down?
Is it downwards to pull the shoes in, or upwards to pull the shoes in?
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 145
From: Aldershot
Wow, my disc backing plate is a teabag. Shot to pieces around the bottom mainly. I guess it's 15 years old now, and we all know what Japanese metal can be like, so that's just how it is.
The corrosion and rust bubbling of the inner hub plate is what was pushing my handbrake shoes outwards from behind the inside edges.
Done what I can with a wire brush, hammer and flat edge screwdriver, brake clean, shop blower, Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Will then Isopon prime and Stonechip paint.
I'm happy for now.....if it buys me some time. But to do this properly to replace the crusty ****e would need hubs / bearings out...££££ no thanks.
You could see the inside of the disc drum was shiny, almost like the disc face, those shoes have binding issues on and off for a couple of years I reckon.
The brake caliper bracket was also very nasty, so will get the same treatment. I soaked that in the Bilt Hamber Deox C sheep dip for 2 hours, has helped.
The corrosion and rust bubbling of the inner hub plate is what was pushing my handbrake shoes outwards from behind the inside edges.
Done what I can with a wire brush, hammer and flat edge screwdriver, brake clean, shop blower, Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Will then Isopon prime and Stonechip paint.
I'm happy for now.....if it buys me some time. But to do this properly to replace the crusty ****e would need hubs / bearings out...££££ no thanks.
You could see the inside of the disc drum was shiny, almost like the disc face, those shoes have binding issues on and off for a couple of years I reckon.
The brake caliper bracket was also very nasty, so will get the same treatment. I soaked that in the Bilt Hamber Deox C sheep dip for 2 hours, has helped.
Wow, my disc backing plate is a teabag. Shot to pieces around the bottom mainly. I guess it's 15 years old now, and we all know what Japanese metal can be like, so that's just how it is.
The corrosion and rust bubbling of the inner hub plate is what was pushing my handbrake shoes outwards from behind the inside edges.
Done what I can with a wire brush, hammer and flat edge screwdriver, brake clean, shop blower, Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Will then Isopon prime and Stonechip paint.
I'm happy for now.....if it buys me some time. But to do this properly to replace the crusty ****e would need hubs / bearings out...££££ no thanks.
You could see the inside of the disc drum was shiny, almost like the disc face, those shoes have binding issues on and off for a couple of years I reckon.
The brake caliper bracket was also very nasty, so will get the same treatment. I soaked that in the Bilt Hamber Deox C sheep dip for 2 hours, has helped.
The corrosion and rust bubbling of the inner hub plate is what was pushing my handbrake shoes outwards from behind the inside edges.
Done what I can with a wire brush, hammer and flat edge screwdriver, brake clean, shop blower, Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Will then Isopon prime and Stonechip paint.
I'm happy for now.....if it buys me some time. But to do this properly to replace the crusty ****e would need hubs / bearings out...££££ no thanks.
You could see the inside of the disc drum was shiny, almost like the disc face, those shoes have binding issues on and off for a couple of years I reckon.
The brake caliper bracket was also very nasty, so will get the same treatment. I soaked that in the Bilt Hamber Deox C sheep dip for 2 hours, has helped.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 145
From: Aldershot
I nearly did....did you say half an hour? lol it was half a day for me! But it was all just prep / painting etc. I think the right hand shoe was also seizing on it's locator pin aswell. I also sanded the inside of the drum as that was getting nasty.
Managed to lube the pins a tiny bit, enough for them to be a bit more free and willing, but I didn't actually take any of the shoe assembly off. Maybe next time I will if they start acting up again. But I've set the biting point to about 4 / 5 clicks on the handbrake lever.....kind of a happy medium.
Yesterday the OSR drum was....rather toasty.
Couldn't get my torque wrench in for the top caliper bolt, the wrench was just too long, so I nipped it down to what felt like the same 65NM as I did on the bottom. I Copperslipped the bolts too. They did both come off with no problems which I was pleased about.
Managed to lube the pins a tiny bit, enough for them to be a bit more free and willing, but I didn't actually take any of the shoe assembly off. Maybe next time I will if they start acting up again. But I've set the biting point to about 4 / 5 clicks on the handbrake lever.....kind of a happy medium.
Yesterday the OSR drum was....rather toasty.
Couldn't get my torque wrench in for the top caliper bolt, the wrench was just too long, so I nipped it down to what felt like the same 65NM as I did on the bottom. I Copperslipped the bolts too. They did both come off with no problems which I was pleased about.
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