jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

So bought a diy kit. Need to top up my classic and newage. Popped the connection on the classic and it let gas out. Just wanted to make sure it's the correct kit for both cars.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

This is the stuff I've bought. Gauge says R-134a

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233236995811

Hawkeye D

I nearly got one of those myself, but it's not R134a, just a gas that's compatible with R134a, so it put me off a bit.

I'm sure the kit you have will fit both cars low pressure side, I thought all low pressure connections were the same on all cars...but don't quote me on that.

I got this one from Halfords, for £79.98 and will get my £10 back without any issues when I return the empty bottle.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Air-C...IAAOSwy7tbVLsO

My Passat was totally empty of R134a, and this one only just filled it....just. But my A/C is now nice and cold.
Will be interesting to hear how you get on with the top up...

the shreksta

iTrader: (20)

surely for the same price you can it refilled at a garage who would also do an anti-bacterial clean and pressure test?

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Ah ok, i think its the new gas there using thats better for the environment? Don't think its a problem.

Mines not empty its just not as cold as i know they can be.

Had a corsa years ago, and got it regassed. Was freezing cold after.

Russell38

Got mine done last year at a local garage 40 quid on special

AT@JDM

I believe the price of gas has gone up.

Hawkeye D

Yep, to be honest work usually do it for me as a homer, but due to the corona ball locks, I am still furloughed and wanted to stay away from work lol, so did it myself a few weeks ago when it was even warmer outside than now.

My A/C was right out of gas, and at that stage didn't know when I was returning to work...and I still don't know!
Ah well, 2 more cleaning products to try today from Clean and Shiny in Aldershot...happy days!

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

R134a isn’t really that expensive..not to justify increasing the “Air con service” charge...a 12kg bottle will fill about 26 cars with totally empty systems, half won’t be empty though and as such it’s recycled. Put it this way it’s about £6 per empty car...price of gas varies depending on season. Buying at the start of winter from the motor factors when it’s discounted helps.

What is expensive is UV leak dye and the various PAG/POE/POA oils of varying viscosities....the latter you ‘should’ replenish a little, but it’s rarely done unless a component a changed. Nitrogen can be a bit of a overhead if cylinder rentals are involved. But really the main overhead is the cost to purchase and maintain of the regas machine itself (which needs a new dryer/filter every so often) and the labour of faffing about with leak detector spray and UV lamps when you find the damn thing is leaking (and if the system totally empties itself within 2 years, it will be leaking- and it’s a legal requirement to not regas a leaky system).

1234yf has on the other hand is extortionate. I can see why a lot of car manufacturers boycotted it until bureaucrats were likely bribed to force through its legislation. Despite it being flammable!!...why not use Butane (r600)? The reason why we used to use R134a over R600 in cars was due to it not being flammable.

Flat4x4-again

iTrader: (1)

Mine was £45 inc vat at a Subaru garage earlier in the year as an add on to a minor service

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

So does anyone know what I'm doing wrong? Or is it wrong connection? Any info would be good. Thanks

Andycat

took my 03 wrx the other day in to sort air con thought ran out but seams its losing pressure infact a few seconds after putting new gas in it emptys itself

the garage said it wouldnt have a clue where to start ?!

another garage said its not worth the hassle to sort could end up £400/500

?!

Don Clark

What does the above actually mean?? You removed the light blue cap from the LP side valve and gas escaped or what??

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Most refills work via the low pressure side with is the Blue cap marked L and located behind the intercooler (assuming TMIC). Not the one by compressor.

If it leaks as soo s as you unscrew the cap, the schrader valve is either stuck, leaking or loose...it’s just like a tyre valve. If it’s loose a schrader tool can tighten it at risk of freezing your fingers, if it’s broke/leaking then it’ll need degassing to fix.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Garage broke the law by re-gassing a leaking system and letting it leak out. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/f-gas-re...heck-for-leaks


Here’s a pointer...look behind the bumper at the condenser...if you see a oily patch that’s probably what is leaking, they are usually the first part to fail as its on the high pressure side and gets the worst of all the elements (stones, corrosion etc). Condensers aren’t that expensive (less that £100), radiator out job to replace IIRC...so if the condenser is replaced beware of cooling system air locks.

Andycat

cheers

Don Clark

I thought that, but looking at this P1 engine bay (classic) they are both by the compressor



and as also shown on Opposedforces for classics. Newage onwards behind the TMIC.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

No when I attach the A/C regasser connector to the low pressure side, it just lets gas out of the system.

tjmatt

iTrader: (1)

Was other end of hose connected to the bottle? If not then yes, it will just empty what's in there already

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

No, but instructions say to connect too car first. Plus air was coming from connection too low pressure side. Not the side that would have been connected to the bottle.

bighead

iTrader: (1)

it a wast of time using the bottle type diy , the garage will to the job and recycle the old gas out at less than it cost you to buy the gas...they will also check the system out as well .

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Picture of high and low pressure valve.