scoobydog

Hallo All,

Having just had the entire rear part of my car (Hawkeye WRX saloon) rebushed and fitted a stainless custom exhaust imagine my horror when I found some dreaded rust in the rear arches and strut tops (long story short, noticed some underseal worn off when it was on the ramp being rebushed so thought I'd pressure wash and put on some Bilt Hamber Dynax UB only for the pressure washing to expose the problem).

So I've had it into a local specialist and seems I'm lucky and I've caught it in time as it's surface rust where the factory underseal has failed/wasn't very good. A bit longer and I've had been looking at way more work although as it is it still needs the struts removed to clean up properly and treat. Goes back next month for it to be done.

So I'm thinking to help prevent it getting worse, not only does it need treating on the part exposed to the weather, it also really needs some cavity wax (got some Bilt Hamber S50) injected into the internal cavities.

Thing is does anyone have any experience of doing this and know if its possible to access the hidden parts with a wax injection tube? I've had a good look in the boot with mirror torch etc with all the trim removed and there seem to be some open parts of the structure that may give access to an injection tube to the internal walls of the hidden part of the turrets, but difficult to be sure which bit leads to where.

If anyone has any experience or can give some advice on this would be hugely grateful.

Thanks

John 37

Not sure of the best places to inject but look for drain holes. Push in an injection tube and see how far you can get. I've used an airline spray gun for this in the past. It's amazing how far the mist can go. I've seen it travel the length of a sill.
There are 2 types of rust protection. I ignore things like paint and galvanising for now. There's wax type products. These are thin waxy/oily fluids. They cover well, will creep into narrow gaps like seams and heal when scratched. The downside is they have poor mechanical strength so don't use them in area exposed to heavy spray and stones like under wheel arches.
Underseal type products are best for exposed underbody areas. These are thick and will take mechanical punishment. However, if water gets behind them, rust can develop unnoticed.
I use Waxoyl for cavities. It works well and has impressed me in the past.
Underbody areas are difficult. I spray stone chip then underseal over it. I use Waxoyl underseal but only because it's easier to apply than some others.

Rusti

iTrader: (4)

Head on over to the Bilt Hamber website, they have rust treatment and prevention products for every scenario, I have used on several cars and they are fantastic.

Link

scoobydog

Hi,

Many thanks for the advice much appreciated. I'll give this a try and see how it goes.

Cheers

Hawkeye D

Hydrate 80 - The purple milkshake.
Great stuff, but I would always have trouble getting the lid off....I mean trouble!

Best to generously grease the lid / threads of the bottle if you go for this product, and only tighten a minimum to create a seal. I may just be unlucky with my bottle, but it's like the lid bonds itself to the threads and was very (very!) difficult to undo, even if only sealed to a minimum without grease.

Remove as much as you can as far as loose rust and flakes, debris etc, then paint on with a half inch brush. It's runny, so it's not like brushing on a thick product.

scoobydog

Thanks for the info Hawkeye D thats great

Burnzyb

Classics monthly did a 3 year anti rust test.

https://www.auson.se/sites/default/f...nthly_uk_0.pdf

scoobydog

Thanks Burnzyb that makes some really interesting reading. That Noxudol 700 looks some really good stuff, might give some a try.

Cheers

ray54

Used this over many years,on many a classic car i have renovated...................comes in kit form ......

clear cavity wax & underbody treatment with long reach hose extensions...................


Used it on wrx wagon i just sold, guy could not believe just how rust free the car was......................car used every day for 15 years of ownership.

Burnzyb

I used dinitrol windscreen mastic for re-glueing a c70 rear screen into the soft top after it came unstuck, it was a really good product and did the job very well.

scoobydog

Thanks Ray54 and Burnzyb, been reading up on the Dinitrol and it does seem to be a really good range of products. That black blobeye wagon looks mint condition and proves just how good dinotrol is.

Cheers

ray54

New car getting same treatment!!

If you have ever grinded/cut out//fabricated/& welded in new metal, believe me this by far the simpler job!!!

scoobydog

Fully agree - I only wish I'd done that on my 07 Hawk before now. Thankfully it's not too bad but could have been better. That looks such a clean car and top job on treating it. Any recommendations on where to get something like this done (I'm prepared to travel to get it done properly)?

Thanks

ray54

It's not difficult to do yourself ... £100-£150 for the full kit, get some paper coveralls/mask/gloves....car up on stands (level ground) &,wheels off. pick a nice warm weekend and your good to go!!!

prodrive.greeny

iTrader: (3)

Thread revival.

Any advice on best DINITROL product for treating rusty areas underneath the car? It looks like you just spray an aerosol over the effected parts.. surely can't be that easy?

How much would you need etc

Thanks in advance

lockheed

iTrader: (1)

Look at
www.rust.co.uk

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

Like decorating, preparation is everything. Surfaces must be totally clean, totally dry, degreased, and the rust must be physically removed and treated. Only then can you use spray on wax treatments .

WRXrowdy

iTrader: (2)

Funnily enough, I've just been gardening and talking to the neighbour over the hedge, as he seems a car enthusiast. Turns out under sealing is what he does, and recommends dynatrol. He mainly does land rovers, but have seen a supra or two in there that an importer sends to him. He was spraying underneath a LR today with a rattle can, looks fairly easy.

He showed me a section of chassis that had been cut off, and had been treated with waxoyl.
It shrinks and actually does more harm than good, as it allows dirt and water to get trapped between the chassis and the shrunken wax

nicam49

Also worth saying, don't do any cavity wax treatments until all the welding work has been completed. Else you might end up with a bonfire

WRXrowdy

iTrader: (2)

Also will add, the guy I spoke to recommends dinitrol, bolt hamber products and por 15.

Someone mentioned hydrate 80 earlier in the thread. While looking into bolt hamber products last week, I did read hydrate 80 is recommended for use on items that can be removed and soaked in it. For parts of the car that can't be removed, I have read that their Geox gel is the better option for applying to rust.

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

You are confusing hydrate 80, which is a rust converter, with deox-c , which mixes up to make a rust removal bath, prior to using hydrate 80.
See my underseal story on my spec c hatch thread for Bilt Hamber products. Or just phone them for excellent technical advice from the owner himself.
I can't emphasize enough how important it is to manually remove rust, then chemically remove it, then convert it, and only then to seal with an anti corrosion wax spray.