SpeedySpeedBoy

I don't know much about rust but do know that if it gets too severe metal will disappear/tear off. I also saw some pics on how a scooby with a few bubbles on the arch, may have significant amounts of metal on the inside.


1. I notice that any scoobys with a bit of rust can be 1.5-2k . Is that because a a little bit of bubbling or damage on outer arch mean, it's severe on the inside?
If not how can one know the extent of the damage and set a price if they haven't removed the arches and looked inside?



2. When people spend a lot repairing the rust(and I imagine adding something to prevent it) the cars value still stays the same as a rusty car. Why is this? If the rust is gone the car should now be ok car right? Or is the rust guaranteed to come back once its first appeared and hence everlasting rust repairs?



3. If I just want to thrash a scooby for 3 months-1 year and then sell/dump it, will it be ok to buy a rusty one, or will it have implications that could prevent me from having fun?



4. If rust is severe, it will not pass mot. How should I go about checking a car to know the rust is not severe? Should I get seller to allow me to get it inspected at a garage or can i just put hand under arch and if it doesnt feel rusty, then it should be ok?


Thanks

Dreep

For one you should understand that prices for Imprezas are completely all over the place, especially the classic shapes. I'm seeing UK turbos for STi money and absolute dogs going for top money too.

I assume you are on about the classic shape anyway. You can look behind the boot trims at either side and have a look at the inside of the rear quarters and also around the strut tower area. Although, generally speaking if there's a fair bit of bubbling on the outside of the rear quarter, it usually means there is corrosion on the inside arch and your not going to know how bad it is until you start cutting into it. These classics tend to rust from the inside out. If you have the ability to get the car on a ramp you'll be able to get a better look at the rear strut towers, arches and other parts of the car from unseeneath. There are repair panels relatively cheap now but ultimately your going to be stung in labour charges, paint etc.

​​​​​​Resale value, certainly if it's a sought after model, kept in good condition with sensible mods and if you had the arches repaired to a high standard (also documenting it would help with sale so a potential buyer can see visually the work which was carried out) will always have someone wanting to buy a solid clean classic but factor in the cost of the car, cost to repair and paint arches and any other miscellaneous stuff it might need and then rethink about resale value as you may struggle to break even depending on the model and its overall condition as I have mentioned before
before. Meaning you could have spent a little more finding a clean one to begin with without giving yourself all the extra work.

In relation to thrashing the car about with rust issues, I for one wouldn't be keen on it, especially if you knew it was quite bad. If the corrosion is bad enough on the inside of the rear arches it can technically be too close to a rear suspension mounting point which would fail an MOT and would be dangerous to drive.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

It sounds like you want a cheap classic too rag about in? If I was you buy one for under £1500 and enjoy yourself.

If it blows up or packs in, it will still be worth a grand to someone. £500 lose an't bad. I'd check old mots see if it's failed on rust before or any advisors. Do checks advised above.

Mine has rust on aches but no rust inside boot etc.

And when you say people have had there arches repaired and rust gone. You will most likely find they just had the outer arch replaced. Which means rust will be still lurking behind. To have a proper job done look through the forum. One guy had half of his car cut away. Think it cost him £2500-£3500.

Robbie010

iTrader: (1)

Tidgy

Its pretty simple really,

Classics are at the age where rust is an issue where its been left and the cars havn't had been looked after as well as they perhaps should (aka bits sorted when they first appear), so they can be had for cheap. People buy them thinking bargain, then realise they are a shed and money pit so run them into an even worse sate before selling them on the first time a big bill comes in that can't be ignored.

That said anything under 3-4k will have some problem or other, either mechanical or bodywork. So depends how much budget you have and what your plan is.

As far as whats safe, arches are arches, but strut towers are a serious concern given the loading that can be put through them when pushing on.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

That looks bad Rob, is that your current car?

Robbie010

iTrader: (1)

mike74

It's not only classics, most bugs have well gone by now, also plenty of blobs and I've even heard of a few examples of hawkeyes with rusty rear arches.

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Well done lad. Nice to see someone tackling the problem. So what if it's not perfect or takes you a while to sort out. Great project and another scooby saved.

RAGGY DOO

iTrader: (1)

All British cars are rust buckets

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Good luck, i found alot of people were not prepared to fabricate to the extent of getting up into the strut tower, hence doing it myself.

SpeedySpeedBoy

So I guess you guys are saying check bubbling near arches, open boot look for rust under boot compartment, try to get behind arches and see whats in there aswell as put car on ramp?


If I put car on axle stands would I be able to see what's in there? would it be better to ask seller if i can get a garage to have a look, would they be able to just look from ramp and tell me how much work is required or do they actually need to start cutting or removing stuff?


Regarding costs, I watched this video and have a lot of free time on my hands so would i be able to get away with just doing that or will welding be necessary in which case I cant diy.

SpeedySpeedBoy

Precisely. if it lasts 3-6 months then i have to sell at a big loss at i wont mind it. However my only concern now is that while you maybe suggesting its ok, dreep is saying it could be quite dangerous to drive these cars. I guess maybe its best to get someone to look at it.


Really wouldnt mind this one if i can drive it for 3-6 months, looks cool

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-Suba...gAAOSweltbAgcG


This one looks good too and I imagine it has less rust because it looks clean but it doesnt have the spoiler and colours not as great.
https://www.gumtree.com/p/subaru/sub...on-/1301423631
You might say if its short term i shouldn't care about spoiler or colour but for me the looks will make those few months more special.



Both are close to me, what do u guys think about these two?


Thanks

Pete

This ^^^^. You should see some of the MK2 Focus RS’s shocking. This is WHY my current one had to be an import.

rossyboy

iTrader: (8)

Wouldn’t touch the first one with a barge pole - looks rotten. Second one seems decent for the money though.

Markyscoob

New Age cars can also go very bad under the radiator. Mine had to have the front end cut off and replaced. Subaru had 34 sets of front metalwork in stock when I checked....not like they don't know about it then! Mine's a Hawkeye with about 60,000 miles. Looked after and washed regularly. Under the front bumper is where Wax Oil doesn't usually get to...

SpeedySpeedBoy

Probably why it got picked up in 2 days. Damn I'm kicking myself now I was the first to call about it but I kept thinking i'll end up sparying it and putting a spoiler on so would wait around if I can find a different colour. Now I'm kicking myself with so little out there its probably better not to be picky I guess.

SpeedySpeedBoy

Guys what do you think of this for my thrash around:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1995-Suba...4AAOSw48dbFeBz ?

I'm bit worried if parts are difficult to find as its old and import. I don't want to spend time waiting for parts or finding specialist suppliers when things go wrong. Or will it be easy to find parts for this?

Is it priced ok? God knows if its been clocked but then again its not a special wrx its only 210bhp just like a impreza turbo. Im not buying it as a collector just a thrash around.

please advise thanks.


Also have you seen a 95 one in real life, do they look really old or just as good as any 2000 gc8?

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Insurance is normally higher on imports.

Seen a few uk turbos for under 2000.

SpeedySpeedBoy

I checked Insurance its about 1k for me so thats ok.



I'm more worried about the parts issue and maybe if its noticeably old but I guess ill have to see it to find out.


Will parts be an issue?

Is it worth 3k or less?

Might it be better to keep looking for a turbo 2000?



Thanks

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222978833760

SpeedySpeedBoy

no no thats a wagon. I need the sporty looking saloon.


btw could I get a wagon, take the body off and directly put the sedan body parts on? Anyone know if thats possible?

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

No completely different shell. Parts can be changed but not converted to a Saloon.

Most parts are not to hard to get, whats difference for a UK Impreza insurance by the way?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-Im...UAAOSw7p5agEs1

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Pointless getting anything too nice if you keeping it for a short time. Just get one for £1500. You can pick up a high mile one with fsh for that.

ray54

Why the hard on for a scooby? lots of fast cheap rusty sh*t boxes out there to abuse, just remember it will come with a price one way or another!

SpeedySpeedBoy

Uk impreza insurance is also 1k so no difference there.



This one is still on bidding so we don't know how much it will go up to. im in london, its in bolton, 4 hours drive but might still be able to train it. Not saying I cant make the journey but its still quite far.


If the parts are not hard to find, should I consider the 1995 one its in nice colour and has the spoiler. but as its thrash around i wouldnt wanna pay 3k, maybe 2.5 would be ok. is it ok to ask him 2.5 or might he get offended by that?

SpeedySpeedBoy

cos i like it. the rumbling sound, bonnet scoop, iconic look etc. Oh yeah, and bunta fujiwara drove one.


By will come at a price, do u mean I can expect to pay lots of repairs? Well I'd better find a decent one to begin with. After 1k of repairs max ill just get rid off it. Thats the lesson i learnt with another car bought 2000 as a run around then did 2500 repairs. lesson being if u dont want it long term dont keep telling yourself this is the last repair cos it won't be.

Dreep

I gather your somewhat of a 'scoob noob' and I get the impression you just want a car you can buy, wring its neck, minimal maintence and thats it, so I'll say this.

People forget these classic Impreza's have often been running about 300bhp+ on engines as old as 1993, making most of these 'cheap' classics technically a ticking time bomb with engines often in the 20 year old mark. They are tired now and personally if your looking for a car to thrash about in with minimal maintence I would advise against a Subaru and look into something like an EP3, especially if your budget is around the 2k mark.



5 speed boxes are soft, especially in classics even at standard power levels, so thats something else to be aware of and you've already highlighted the rust issues too.



Having owned (and still do) a 1998 STI Type R, I wouldn't buy another classic unless :

A). I had money for a newage STI bottom end

B). It already had a newage bottom end with proof/history
C). prefferably had spare cash, again, for a 6 speed


Just my 2p worth

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Parts are very expensive for Subaru's. parts for my Vauxhall are super cheap. Subaru parts are not.

I wouldn't recommend buying an old classic if your not passionate. There old cars now. My mate bought one, had one job after another, clutch, water hoses splitting, gaskets leaking. There hardly a car to buy thrash and sell. Your best buying a newer model.

topshot

iTrader: (4)

I beg to differ, parts are easily available and cheap even upgraded/sti parts can be had cheaply second hand etc. Mines a my00 classic, driven hard, serviced on time and never let me down. Had it over 8 years now as both daily drive and weekend racer. Even the newer models are getting on now unless you take your chances on a 2.5.