Caribe

Afternoon all,

New Type R has some teething issues

Had a sticky caliper but managed to free it with some persuasion...

BUT i noticed that there is movement in the prop shaft into the rear diff and its knocking/.

Spoke to garage and they will pick up the bill to replace the diff.

Anyone know where I can source one from?

Quick internet check but nothing popped up thus far

Thanks

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Try www.type-ra.com for proper Type R knowledge and advice.

Cullenmin

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1998 Type R rear diff I can sell you.
R180 4.44 ratio.

Came off my car when I changed gearbox to a 6 speed.

Pm me if interested
Cheers
Rich

Caribe

i "think" the one on my car is the 160?

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Shouldn't be should be r180 with solid discs, sliding single pot rear calipers with 190mm handbrake shoes and 4.444 diff. Has it DCCD

domino46

I also have a type r R180 4.44 diff for sale , pm me if interested

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

The garage should be sorting all the problems out under warranty.
The issues you are describing should have been identified during the test run.

Caribe

I drove the car twice, but the knocking diff was not identified.

The car came into the UK last June and the owner kept it in a lockup as he was planning on selling it in a few years as he believed the prices of 2 doors would keep going up.

The car did 20 km in 18 months

Either way he decided to sell it.

No issues on test drives (the noise is not hugely loud)

I drove it from Leeds up to Newcastle and it wasnt until I was sitting in traffic near NCL that i could hear the knock at the rear.

The caliper was seized on, but i think it was just cause it had sat around not moving. (i fixed the caliper)

The garage will pay to have the diff replaced for me, so thats already agreed.

I am trying to source one so i dont have to drive back down to Leeds and leave the car with them as i will need it, so with them paying for it, it means that i can get it done at my garage etc.

Engine seems good. healthy oil pressure at 2.5 bar when hot idle, 8 bar at cold and settles at 7 when driving, so pressures seem healthy (which is always nice)

Caribe

Yes it does have DCCD and I can confirm it has single pot rears as i had to free the pistons yesterday.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

You sure its not the outrigger bushings. Does it do it when changing gear and starting off.

Cullenmin

iTrader: (1)

And you’re not driving with the diff locked or in the forward position are you, causing the knocking?

Caribe

Hello all,

I had it at my mechanic yesterday for him to look at.

He had the car up in the air and could twist the prop shaft in the diff by about a quarter to 1 third turn.

If you move the rear wheels you can hear the clunking in the diff / prop

I am going on what he is saying to me.

The diff was back in the open position and not in the orange lock state 100%

It happens when you put load through the car (even gentle) so if you come on and off the throttle etc

definitely the diff area making the noise

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Do you have the auction sheet?
What is the registration? PM if you want.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

With the car sitting on the ground with the handbrake on you will get a quarter of a turn in the propshaft. With the car jacked up under the diff with the hand brake off you will almost certainly get a third of a turn rocking the propshaft back and forth as its just taking up the slack. If its annoying you I would leave it to the dealer assuming you bought it from a dealer and let them sort it as you could end up chasing your tail for a long time. The first things to check in no particular order would be, driveshaft nuts (hub ends), outrigger bushings, rear diff bushings (centre), propshaft bolts, drop the oil and inspect, check crown wheel whilst bung is out.

Caribe

Thanks. I did get it from a dealer. They have advised that they will pay for a new diff if that's what it needs.

If you jack the car up and rock one of the wheels, you can hear the knocking inside the diff.

I called around 4 transmission and diff specialists in Newcastle and all 4 won't touch it. They will only deal with the front diff and not the rear??

2 of them said they don't deal with Impreza's with 1 of them saying it's cause they have all been owned by "idiots" so I am better calling Subaru and buying a new one...... All right pal, nee botha

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

You have obviously been to idiots (no offence) cause its a lot more involved to even get at the front diff cause its in the gearbox. If you shake any wheel on an axle you will get slack from the diff it is only drivetrain slack.

Caribe

They are good sized companies as well and that is what surprised me immensely

These were not little back street garages. Between them they are the biggest players in transmission work around Newcastle. Was very very very surprised.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Well you came on looking for advice and I have given you some to look at. We have been working on and building Subarus for 20+ years from legacys to hatches and have come across this many times. Have also put 780hp through a r180 with no ill effects apart from broken shafts. They very rarely give problems apart from needing tightened. As for nobody touching your v3 regards mapping you either need an aftermarket ECU ie Simtek, Alcatek, Syvecs or an ESL daughter board as the standard v3/v4 cannot be mapped.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Have you tried Revolution 24/7?

https://www.revolution247.com/workshop-services

Caribe

not for this I have used them for parts in the past for an old track car.

They tend to replace rather than repair (this was going back a fair few years) but I will call them up and speak to them and see what they say

Caribe

Thank you for your assistance

Where are you based?