Wouldie

Morning all. Got a 2001 bugeye and recently had it mapped. I have fitted a 3 port boost solenoid which the mapper reduced to only running on two, said this was to get more boost ??. Now l'm not at all of a mechanical mind but did read up a little on boost solenoids, and having got a VF34 turbo fitted came to the conclusion(rightly or wrongly), that with it only running on 2 ports it wasn't enough to handle the spool of a bigger turbo, as the car is not running very smoothly and feels like it keeps missing(misfire or lack of fuel ??).
Its due another map on 4th Sept with the same mapper, so l'm hoping the issue can be sorted out, its just l'd like to try and understand myself exactly whats going on. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jay Cartay

iTrader: (3)

A 3 port boost solenoid gives a mapper better boost control. If he's had to set it to two because he can't set it up I'd be extremely concerned about him doing any further work personally....

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

You can plumb a 3 port in to use only 2 of the ports and not connect the 3rd port back to the inlet. This works fine. It will still be more accurate than the old 2 port.


However, if it's been mapped how it was plumbed with the 3rd (outlet) port not connected then don't just re-connect it to the inlet as it may change your boost graph quite a bit.


Best talk to your mapper. Who mapped it and fitted the 3 port?

Tidgy

Sounds clueless, whos the mapper?

Money back and go elsewhere would be my advice

Wouldie

Its had 2 previous maps with the 3 port fitted mapped by duncan. The latest map was done by bob rawle who mapped it by using just two. The other day l went for a bit of a blast, and while giving it some for a split second the power went while overtaking but came back in straight away. All the time l'm driving it, it feels like the power is not coming through smoothly, if that makes sense ?. Obviously l have already relayed this through to bob. l just wanted other opinions and to try and understand what could be going on.

Wouldie

Oh and the 3 port was fitted by darrell at scoobyworx.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Darrell knows what he's doing, but you say your mapper re-plumbed it to only use 2 of the ports? As I said above, you CAN plumb it in so that the waste outlet port is not connected to the inlet and just connect the actuator and turbine housing lines. This has been done in the past, but if it's plumbed in correctly using the 3 ports with the waste to the inlet then this is ideally much better.


Who mapped it?

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Doesn't the 3rd port just vta and work fine just like this?

Wouldie

When the 3 port was first fitted it was mapped twice using all 3 ports by Duncan. The reason l went to bob rawle for the next map was because i wasn't happy with the maps done by duncan. It was then mapped by bob who only used 2 of the ports, and since then its not been a very smooth car to drive, To much of nothing and then everything, and while just pootling about around 50-60mph it feels jerky and missing if that makes any sense.

Have used darrell for quite sometime now and all of his work on my car has been top notch.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

That sounds wierd, Bob certainly knows what he's doing. I'd suggest talking to Bob about it and getting him to look at it FOC for you again until it's right.

Funnily enough, it was Duncan who connected my 3 port up leaving the 3rd port to vent to air on my previous car. Never had an issue.

On my current car the 3 port was plumbed in (By Andrew Carr) with the return going to the inlet system where it should go. On a newage car you can use the return to help control max boost levels if needed. Ideally, you leave the return pipe un-restricted with no restrictor pill and let the ECU & solenoid do the work of controlling the boost.

On mine when I changed my exhaust recently it made the engine breathe so well it actually started over-boosting. On the advice of Andrew Carr I machined up a restrictor pill with a 1.5mm hole in the middle and put it in line with the 3rd solenoid outlet port to the inlet system which essentially capped my max boost to 1.35bar until he was able to remap it again with the restrictor removed. Very useful to know and I've kept the restrictor just in case.

Wouldie

Which is exactly what l will do when l see him next month. I intend to type out all the mods l've had done, which engine wise are only a few, just incase l missed something of the list first time round. Many thanks for the replies fellas.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Just out of interest you say the car not running smoothly and feels like it's misfiring? Is that even at low revs? Through the rev range or only on wide open full throttle? If so what revs is this happening at? If it's driving rough even at lower revs it could be something else like your MAF now going faulty.

Wouldie

Yes its at low revs. You can feel it more when opening it up and feels very much like a misfire. Going out shortly so l'll make a note of the revs and try at at low and high speeds.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Nothing to do with your 3 port then. Check your coil packs & plugs first.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pump.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Good shout. Although the fuel pump just pressurises the tank which then supplies fuel to the fuel rails. It shouldn't cause uneven power delivery like a misfire. If the fuel pump is knackered, generally they just don't deliver fuel and it won't run correctly let alone rev up.

Could be an injector? But my money will still be on a faulty coil pack or plug.


If it is actually misfiring then this should be recorded in the ECU logs as codes. Can you get an ODB" fault code reader to check for logged codes?

Tidgy

prob wont show up anyway if its a pack

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Would have thought it would still raise a cylinder misfire code for a coilpack?


May also be worth checking the fuel pump relay and the MAF. Give the MAF a clean (carefully) and see if that helps. Suppose it could also be an injector?


Ultimately you need a fault code check first to help point in one direction if possible.


Or get a KKL cable from ebay for £5 and download the btssm app and do some data logging of the events for Bob to review.

96sti

Does the kkl cable and btssm app only work on all ecu

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

It works on my 2004 FSTI JDM model which doesn't have ODB2 protocol like the later newage onwards UK cars, so it may well work on older cars too.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

Fuel pump pressurises the rails and associated pipework not the tank and if its on its way out you will get a progressively worse misfire sometimes randomly. Eventually it will give up altogether. Since it was mapped it has probably put it under more load and killed it. The 3 port if its open to atmosphere on the bottom port that is 100% Bob would not of left it in an unsafe condition.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

I agree that the fuel pump pressurises the rails by pressurising the tank that pushes fuel to the rails. But it wouldn't give a misfire it would be more of a fuel cut issue on a failing pump I'd have thought. As you said though, there is a chance the extra delivery requirement is highlighting an issue there.


To the OP... are you still using the original pump? It's always advised to change this before a mapping session really.


I agree, wouldn't have thought Bob would leave it like that. Very odd.

1509joe

iTrader: (2)

I agree that the fuel pump pressurises the rails by pressurising the tank

Wouldie

Been out this afternoon and when plodding along around 40-60 mph you can feel the jerky/misfire or whatever it is. Put your foot down and the boost comes through in what l can only describe as stages, bit like going up on a faulty elevator. It will be next week before l can get it checked over, but l will have all the things you guys have mentioned checked.

Tidgy

throttle position sensor maybe?

Darrell@Scoobyworx

iTrader: (5)

It’s running one of our 340lph “Colossus” pumps.

It has just had TGV Deletes fitted the RCM billet ones as it had a fault tumbler valve.

I agree Bob knows what he is doing so I’m sure when he takes a second look all will become clear

nufctoon

did you sort this out?

scout1982

gearbox neutral position switch worn flat..............

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

I had these symptons when my car was originally mapped by a "pro"

Turned out the MAF was still connected on a mafless setup with no IAT sensor installed.

Worth looking into if still doing this

RAGGY DOO

iTrader: (1)

Unsafe you want to see my car the day I collected it took 40 sec for it to start from cold to be told it’s perfect
Two maps and a car running like ****e
No reading from the front lambda
Miss firing it’s knackers off
And no one gives a flying **** about rectifying it