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Manual 3" Exhaust Silencer Butterfly Valve - Anyone fitted one?

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Old 09 January 2017, 12:48 PM
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Bazil_SW
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Default Manual 3" Exhaust Silencer Butterfly Valve - Anyone fitted one?

Soon I'll be upgrading my prodrive backbox to a Ninja II, and to keep the neighbours on side I'm looking to fit one of these butterfly valves, for those (to) early morning starts:





I'm think of routing it up through the drain grommet in the spare wheel well, under the rear seat and carpet and mounting it to back of the floor console, but juding from the picture the cable does not look that long......

Has anyone fitted one and if so how did you route it, and how long is the cable roughly?

Cheers!
Old 09 January 2017, 01:36 PM
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Vxr2010
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Hi it may just be the photo but that looks like it totally closes you need some exhaust flow , it does reduce the noise quite a lot around 20 to 30 per cent on mine , the electric ones tend to seize after a while , you could remove some metal from the flap and you would get enough flow , just remember to fully open it before you give it much throttle , i would get it welded into the exhaust near the gearbox and run the cable up near the shifter , the only other thing to consider is how big is the opening of the flap and the size of your exhaust so it clears when the flap is open , option 2 an exhaust bung it's cheaper but more off a faff each time
Old 09 January 2017, 03:20 PM
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It's just the picture I think. On the japspeed eBay shop listing. It says specifically its for making the exhaust quiter for idle and low speed only so it must not fully close. Even then as you say it's nothing hacksaw and file couldn't fix anyway....

From the picture I assumed it fitted between the centre and backbox sections?
Old 09 January 2017, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
It's just the picture I think. On the japspeed eBay shop listing. It says specifically its for making the exhaust quiter for idle and low speed only so it must not fully close. Even then as you say it's nothing hacksaw and file couldn't fix anyway....

From the picture I assumed it fitted between the centre and backbox sections?
yes you are correct.

no need for welding etc it will bolt onto the flange in the mid pipe just about where the gearstick is.

you will need 2 gaskets and a pair of longer bolts to go with....
Old 09 January 2017, 03:46 PM
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Ah, I have a sports cat downpipe all in one so the only joints in the exhaust are:

Turbo to downpipe - obviously no good!

Downpipe to centre res - spherical spring joint so no good either

Centre to backbox - flat gasket with the 2 holes as per the part

So for me the options are either fit at the back or weld somewhere in the centre, I'd rather not cut the hyper expensive downpipe. In fact don't really want to weld anything if I can help as I might want to take it off.

Hopefully the cable is long enough if not I might need to dismantle and extend it if possible or perhaps drill the body and reseal it, but again I would rather not do that!
Old 13 January 2017, 12:38 PM
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Fitted the ninja II and straight through centre the other day, wow, it's ace! Proper scoobs burble now

And surprisingly it's quieter than the pro drive offering on cruise, but really comes alive when you press on.

My garage joins on to next doors house so I'm definitely going to need one of these butterfly valves. For the time being I've resorted to pushing the car out of the garage in the morning so at least it doesn't shake next doors house when it starts up!
Old 13 January 2017, 12:45 PM
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Took one of those valves off my car and it was fitted between the downpipe and the centre section and the cable was routed through into the car and came out under the drivers seat so it was easy to control.
Old 13 January 2017, 12:53 PM
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Vxr2010
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as above is probably the best way to get it fitted , they welded mine for not much at the local exhaust place it was sandwiched between a joint in the exhaust , mine died in the end due to it being electric which is common , but it's still secure and flap removed and left in place
Old 13 January 2017, 01:13 PM
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When I changed the exhaust I did notice that the protrusion from the end of the downpipe flange (which is what the ring gasket sits on) was longer than the thickness of the gasket. So if the valve and a flat gasket are not too thick it might all just sit together nicely between the downpipe and the centre. I need to change the ring gasket anyway as I ordered the wrong size and needed to reuse the one that was already fitted, but it was pretty mullered.

Fingers crossed!
Old 13 January 2017, 02:56 PM
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Sounds like you're running a 2.5" exhaust?
Old 13 January 2017, 03:02 PM
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Yes at the time of writing the OP I had just got the new exhaust and thought it was 3" but when I fitted realised it was actually 2.5".
Old 13 January 2017, 03:10 PM
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Vxr2010
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you will need some flex in the system some where or long term it will crack as i've found out twice now , so now i have a flexi pipe welded in
Old 13 January 2017, 03:22 PM
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Agreed. My current plan would keep the ring gasket and spring joint in play to allow for movement.

Failing that it will need to mount between the centre and backbox as that is a rigid joint anyway, but it will need the cable to be extended (most likely).
Old 14 January 2017, 11:55 AM
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johned
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Why not just have a back box with a bung.
Old 14 January 2017, 01:51 PM
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Only need it to be quiet until I'm out the street. Car is a daily and don't want to have to get out and get my hands dirty every day. As someone said above its a faff you don't want first thing in the morning!
Old 18 January 2017, 07:01 PM
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A proper tinkerers solution, I like it! Especially how you've thought about the actuation/motor as it's common (so I've read) that the motors seize, which isn't that surprising given the operating conditions.

Probably a bit more than I'm after as the Ninja 2 is plenty loud enough for me, just need to dumb it down for the very short time it takes to get out the garage and down street..... until about a year from now... that's how long it took for me to get bored of the Pro Drive one, which was also "plenty loud enough" at the time!
Old 31 January 2017, 10:31 PM
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I have ordered an electronic controlled version to help with the noise around the estate. (louder than a nur spec)
Old 31 January 2017, 10:40 PM
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I would have imagined a tail pipe bung would be simpler and just as effective?
Old 01 February 2017, 10:34 AM
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the electronic motors can be hard work , use the motor often and wd40 it fairly often , mine seized i gave up in the end
Old 01 February 2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Vxr2010
the electronic motors can be hard work , use the motor often and wd40 it fairly often , mine seized i gave up in the end
acf50 would be good for that, if not better than wd40




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