just me

iTrader: (3)

I need to replace a front outer cv boot on a widetrack blob adter accidently causing a tiny tear while installing a roll centre kit, I dont want hammer the drive shaft out in case I mushroom it, I was wondering if this tool can be used to press it out, or is it just for pulling the hub off to replace wheel bearings? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-10-Ton...0AAOSwEeFVPhgM

Also I've read on the yank forums the enitre drive shaft needs to come out, inner boot needs to replaced as you cant get the outer one on with the inner in place, seems a bit long winded to me, I was hoping to just get the driveshaft out of the hub, and stick the new one on using a cone to stretch it as in this kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUBARU-IMP...KJDM_I_gaSB7wA

Could anybody please shed some light on this issue?

Cheers

boosted

Use a brass or aluminum drift to smash the cv joint out of the hub. You'll need the bottom ball joint undone to remove the whole shaft. Once the shaft is off undo the clips on the outer cv and pull the boot back. Then the outer joint will chap off with a hammer (hit the outer edge where the boot was) No need to go near the inner cv.

just me

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply boosted, I'm just worried the driveshaft might be stuck in the hub, trying to pre empt this and avoid having to mess about if it is actually stuck, checking ebay now for a drift

boosted

Any piece of alu bar will do.
If the damage isn't that bad you can sometimes get away with cleaning it extremely well with brake cleaner and supergluing it

euan_r

iTrader: (29)

The outers do chap off but I would go proper route and disassemble inner. Its only a few clips and I have seen portion of shaft that retains internal snap ring on outer break up on removal before.

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

Have you tried this yet?

just me

iTrader: (3)

I havent yet, but will on the weekend

just me

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for that advice

boosted

unusual, not saying its not happened to you before, but VERY unusual, all the VAG stuff chaps off (has done forever) and ive never seen this problem before. I have had to replace the snap ring, but never the driveshaft.

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

How do you get the driveshaft apart?
Just hit it?
The hub end I mean.
I'm gonna cut the outer boot off then I need to get it apart to get the new one on.
Is it a circlip or something.
Cheers

boosted

Yes as said in post two

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

https://youtu.be/udPHQC0BgwE

Just found this old video.

What's the concensus on the boots that you put on with the cones like the op showed at the top. Stretchy like.

boosted

Rubbish. Why would you even bother? You are 99% the way to taking the joint off, just whack it with a hammer and do it properly.universal Stretchy boots are for joints you can't take appart.

g5aff

Hi Asim, it's Paul. Sounds like u haven't had much luck lately. Very frustrating when u fix your car on the drive to save a little cash and things don't go your way. I've done lots of jobs to my car to save some cash and had setbacks with them all. Which is the exact same circumstances as me on the drive etc. all worth it in the end & its a learning curve. I've been chasing a boost leak for ages but finally sorted it. I replaced my neutral position switch as it was knackered, found a small hole in my downpipe when i removed the bracket which secures it to the gearbox. As I had to cut the bracket off so in order to heatwrap the downpipe. Swapped my dump valve for a stock recirculating, replaced several split hoses, replaced my split turbo intake hose for a upgraded one, had a cam sensor issue with eml illuminated for ages until i finally found a split wire when i traced it back to a connector block, then last but not least my up pipe warped at the flange where it meets the manifold. That ended up being a nightmare of a job as I decided remove the complete exhaust, clean up all the faces and replace with new genuine gaskets. Stuck a new AS Performance up pipe on it matched to my 20g. But had problems with seized bolts during exhaust disassemble , bolts rounding, threading etc but I got there in the end. Just got my car through its mot there 3rd mot its passed since I've owned it without needing to spend money on any parts. But im gonna treat it to some new bushes etc as they are down as an advisory. Plus replaced some jubilees which kept loosening themselves off under boost.

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

Well I did it.
But was a right pita.
I really don't like those metal bands that they supply.not sure if mine are on that secure.time will tell.
And I wasted a good hour or so trying to put the pin back in the driveshaft.
I eventually got it by spinning it 180 degrees as it will only go back on the way it came of.
I got the pin stuck a few times and also ruined some good clothes.
Covered in grease etc.
If I did it again though I reckon I've got the technique now.

boosted

Lol, you shouldn't be wearing good clothes lying under a car!
You get a special tool for tightening the clips. Alternatively end cutters work well.
Oh and did you just smack the outer Cv off?

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

It all started well and I marked the top camber bolt.
Removed the 2 bolts and had driveshaft out within half an hour.
Went to local motor factors and got the boot about 2pm.
Hacksawed the old clips off, got new boot on.
Spent at least half an hour trying to get shaft back together. Bloody split ring or whatever it's called.
It all went wrong trying to get the pin back in.
Tried it so many different ways and couldn't believe it wouldn't go back in.
Eventually got my torch out and could see it wasn't lined up.
Spun the shaft round and it went straight in.
I'd got the pin stuck a few times using a lump hammer and had to go from above to knock it back out.
I nearly gave up.
And yes I knocked the shaft off.ha ha.

johned

Job satisfaction.