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Sad news today, I was reversing my car and it juddered and stalled. Went to start the car and it was turn over but not start when I heard a quite knock noise.
Got mechanic out and he thinks is the valve on the timing belt, we checked the belt quickly and it's frayed on one side. Had the whole set up replaced in Jan this year.
Worst case it's the valves, how much am I looking to pay? Does anyone know a reliable place to do the work? I'm from Sussex but could get it transported there and back quite cheap.
Other info which might help solve the problem, when hand turning the belt, it was quite easy, mechanic said there wasn't much tension.
Not sure what I'd do, do I pay thousands to fix it or sell cheaper and cut my losses. I'm genuinely gutted.
My mechanic had told me when I bought the car that timing belts can be fitted incorrectly on these, there is something that the belts can rub on if not done right. He had a look at mine and said it was OK, but I got the whole thing replaced anyway a few months back. Was it a Scooby specialist that did the belt? Maybe someone else can shed some light.
Had one like this a few weeks ago, the broken off section had gone between the belt & the crank sprocket, lifting the belt up off the sprocket letting the belt jump several teeth, & also damaging the crank trigger.
The non firing on yours could be damaged crank or cam trigger, that broken belt has been flying about for a while to get that bad.
Had one like this a few weeks ago, the broken off section had gone between the belt & the crank sprocket, lifting the belt up off the sprocket letting the belt jump several teeth, & also damaging the crank trigger.
The non firing on yours could be damaged crank or cam trigger, that broken belt has been flying about for a while to get that bad.
I don't know I only looked at it to find out the cause of the non running, but if its done some valves, its engine out job, head, or heads off, so going be in the £1500.00 plus bracket.
Expensive: Exactly how much will depend on the parts required, but you're looking at the cost of remove/refit engine and remove/refit heads at the very least; which is £800-£850 regardless before fixing anything that's found to be broken/bent.
Engine removed, both cylinder heads off to be inspected. Camshafts and Valves removed for inspection - replace whats bent. Same goes for damage caused by the belt thrashing round (crank sensor, belt cover, sprockets). Also damaged pistons "should" be replaced. And a head gasket set to put it back together. Also while the engine is out take the opportunity to fix other issues - oil leaks, clutch etc.
In short total cost -up to a few grand - as you say.
First things first though... remove ALL belt covers and check cam timing...more than a few teeth out on any sprocket; Game over.
Last edited by ALi-B; 22 October 2015 at 10:54 AM.
Update, I had the AA come out who had a look, turned the crank manually and did a full rotation with no issues. He said that's excellent as the valves aren't bent.
It's booked in Monday to a subaru specialist who will change the cam belt and pulleys again and hopefully this will fix it.
Don't trust AA. As I told you earlier ALL belt covers removed, manually check timing marks. Because the engine rotates, it doesn't mean the valves aren't bent. Most engines will happily spin over with mullard valves.
Time and time again we have cars dragged in on a tow truck with a tin-pot diagnosis by mr AA man and 7 out of 10 times its wrong.
Last one was a Xsara Picasso diagnosed as a faulty crank sensor....erm no. Firstly: The DTC code was a CAM sensor signal/synchronization fault. Live data showed the crank signal was fine (rpm) but there was no fuel pressure on the fuel rail (common rail diesel). So, no cam signal and no fuel pressure from a belt driven pump? It doesn't take a scientist to work out that these symptoms are caused by a broken belt, and thats before lifting the bonnet to physically check and confirm it.
And its not a one-off; that was just the last time.
Last edited by ALi-B; 22 October 2015 at 04:45 PM.
Will it's booked in for Monday with the subaru bloke so he will take it apart and have a look,it needs a new cambelt regardless but fingers crossed that's all it is.
Regardless it quite clearly waa fitted incorrectly to get to this frayed in 10 months. It doesnt appear to be on the cog correctly, seems too far forward.
Not good, don't let the mechanic near it again. That could possibly be damage caused by the guide that sits on top of crank pulley. If these are not adjusted properly they can cause all sorts of damage.
just because it hand cranks doesnt mean there's no damage im afraid, leak down test will tell you, but that belt ios not right, its been rubbing (pretty obvious i know) adn for some time. i'd start thinking about hitting whoever fitted the belt for some sort of resolution, no wy a ten month old belt, with new pulleys and tensioner should do that unelss somethign has failed.
I will be pushing hard for some money back but I will see what the outcome of the damage is first. Spoke to trading standards today to see where I stand, they will get back to me soon with the answer.
Quite worrying the amount of tipex of the cam pullys and back covers, makes you wonder if your so called mechanic had a clue what he was doing in the first place if he cant time it up with the tdc marks.
Id put money on it he never changed the tensioner and its failed causing the belt to jump onto the edge of the pully, i very much doubt that a new belt kit will sort it, it will have been running and jumping teeth so be lucky if it left any valves un touched.
Not yet, started on it today. Apparently the old mechanic fitted the pulleys too tight and have de thread from the block. Apparently the timing was out but won't know if valves are bent until the new belt is fitted. He is sending me pics later so will upload when I get them
21 October 2015, 05:45 PM
Valve replacement
