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Old 27 July 2015, 05:02 PM
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Matdragon
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Default Engine out.. suggestions

My engines coming out soon as my car is due new timing belts plus the other day my reverse gear broke forcing me to pretty much get on it and have the work done now. My mate is taking the engine out at his unit therefore i'll have easy access to it.

So far i'm planning:
- New excedy Clutch
- water pump
- 2nd hand gearbox (is there anything i need to look out for when buying one?)
- Timing belts / Cambelts
- Head gaskets (for the sake of it but done need doing) and other gaskets.
- Valve stem seals (get a bit of smoke on idle after giving it some boot)
- Sand and respray subframe due to a bit of surface rust (i hear this is a common) as well as any other rust i find (any other common places?)

Is there anything else i should do while it is out? Even things considered small or usually pointless i might as well do as i'm getting a temp car during the process so time isn't a major issue - i want to do it right!
Its an 03 bugeye WRX on just under 90k miles.

Also - just quickly i've seen most people pull the engine out from the top however my mate always drops engines out the bottom and he wants to try doing that with mine, will he be able to? is there a reason people do it one way or the other?

Thanks in advance! I've received allot of info on what / how to do bits on here so far just want to make sure i don't miss anything.
Matt
Old 27 July 2015, 05:13 PM
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the shreksta
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the blue smoke is mostly turbo related (seals)

if your head gaskets dont need doing why on earth would you do them???????
Old 27 July 2015, 05:20 PM
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boosted
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As said blue smoke sounds like turbo. Valve stem seals are usually first thing when cold.
I see no need to remove all the suspension and subframe to take the engine out the bottom?!
Just remove the lambda sensor and rad, crane it out the top.
Of your taking heads off of definatly be doing engine bearings in a high miler like yours.
Old 27 July 2015, 05:29 PM
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Thats a lot of work if it turns out to be the turbo. Belts are easily accessible once the radiator is out of the way. Gearbox out is not too bad either.
Old 27 July 2015, 06:16 PM
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1509joe
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Engine up gearbox down by far the easiest
Old 28 July 2015, 10:23 AM
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Matdragon
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The reason i want to do head gaskets is due to eharing of so many scoobys head gaskets going at around 100k. I'm guessing mine have never been done and its approaching 90k, if the engines coming out.. why the hell not?? I don't want to run the car for another 10k miles then the head gasket goes and have to do it all again.

The smoke when it happens isn't blue its just white, plus it did it when i had my TD04 and has continued with my TD05 so i would have thought that ruled out turbo seals? It takes a minute or two of idle after power to start smoking.

I wanted to respray the subframe anyway easiest to do when its all apart surely? But i'll tell him engine up box down is easiest, neither of us have taken apart a scooby before so its all new to us, used to straight 4! haha.

Cheers for the engine bearing idea.. if the rings or anything need doing and the head comes off i'll do them too.

Thanks for all your responses
Old 28 July 2015, 10:35 AM
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If your going to that extent then full strip down refresh is by far the best way to go, you'll be 75% of the way there already
Old 28 July 2015, 10:37 AM
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The white smokes possibly just steam/water in the exhaust evaporating which usually means everything is generally about right.
Old 28 July 2015, 11:33 AM
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That's what i figured would be nice knowing everything is sweet! Taking the car to engineturner afterwards so want everything done before that so the map will perform best.

I'm pritty sure its not just steam (although i'd like it to be) as it only steams off a little bit when cold then goes away and won't smoke again, until after boosting and a few mins idle then occasionally quite a significant amount of smoke comes out (normally after extended periods of boost, but none while on boost). When that happens i drive it casual for a few mins then leave to idle again and the smoke clears.
Old 28 July 2015, 11:35 AM
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Front and rear crank case oil seals are a must and use genuine ones only.
Old 28 July 2015, 05:21 PM
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Silicone rad hoses are also a good idea.

I wouldn't split the engine if it's running sweet. I'm about to take mine out to fit a new clutch, cambelt kit, turbo and a few other bits, I'll also be doing the crank seals and possibly the rocker cover gaskets if there's any sign of leakage, I'll not bother with the water pump as they're not really known for failing, mine is coming up to 120k and there's plenty that go well over 150k so I'm not too worried, it's the poorly maintained/modded ones that let go at circa 100k which is chav hands time.

Last edited by ditchmyster; 28 July 2015 at 05:24 PM.
Old 28 July 2015, 05:31 PM
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Matdragon
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MattyB - thanks for that i'll look into doing those while im at it.

ditchmyster - Sounds like we'll be doing very similar things, i might hold off on the water pump then if they are good, unless i can get one at a good price then i might as well. Silicone rad hoses & Rocker cover gaskets good idea too!

I'm also going to be whipping off my baileys dump valve in place of a forge re-circ after reading allot about lean fueling because of them. Admittedly i will miss the noise but engine health takes priority!
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