EddScott

I want to get a classic Impreza for nothing but weekends and playing about with. Doesn't matter if it sits in the garage for months on end or needs work - however, I can't do much work myself.

I can go and buy a cheap WRX or UK turbo for a couple of grand and use that as a starting point. I had a WRC RA which had the low ratio box and VF29 - now other than those and those lovely seats (I'll probably ditch the standard seats anyway for something a little more racey )

OR

Hold out on the funds and wait for a WRC RA to come up or a V4-6 STI and go from there. I just wonder if I'm going to make changes and not keeping it stock should I pay more attention to getting the shell I can find and work from there?

Also, I've noticed pretty much every classic is suffering from arch rot - I have no idea on bodywork so how much would this cost to put right or is that a how long is a piece of string question? Roughly how much would it cost to replace the rear arches on a classic plus paint etc? I assume the front wings are just chuck new ones on and have painted?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

The rear sills around the jacking points are also suspect now, mine has an advisory.

Might be interested in selling mine: UK classic with many engine mods all done by the late, great Harvey, and loads of other stuff, PM me if interested.

stevebt

iTrader: (8)

The UK cars are the lightest out of the lot of them so just go for one of those as you will need a 6 speed which no classic had as standard so why pay a premium for a JDM 5 speed.

I'm looking at buying a classic later this year and I'm going to turn it into a track car so cheaper the better for me as I will added and changing a lot.

I wouldn't worry about arches as if I were you I would just add a set of ABW arches as it will make the car look better

RS Grant

I had the same decision to make and despite all my previous Classics being UK Turbos the corrosion issue steered me toward considering my first JDM car. Even though I plan to have the Scoob as a toy/tinkering thing only, I couldn't be arsed spending cash chasing car cancer around a rough body/underside... and all the non-chav'd up UK Turbos that I found for sale were starting to bubble up to some degree.

I'd suggest keeping an open mind and buy on condition rather than origin/spec. So if a cracking UK/WRX/STi came up then I'd seriously consider it, after all, with a few mods they can all be made roughly as quick as each other anyway.


Cheers,
Grant

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Not sure where you got the weights from Steve but I can assure you a UK turbo is not the lightest classic.

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

JDM classics are the lightest,TypeR & RA the lightest of the bunch.
Personally I would look for a JDM that has been in this country the shortest amount of time.
When looking for my Classic in 2011 I had a look around a few UK Turbos and every one of them had some rust over the rear arches. I then found my RA which had been imported in 2008 and been mainly used in UK as a weekend car. Totally rust free and still is(although now a daily drive and expect the UK weather to get a grip on it at some point)
I didn't pay much for it either. Look for a classic that has been in the UK for the shortest time and you will find a rust free example,or even better,import one yourself

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Buy on condition if you're modding it anyway, the RA's are frowned upon if modded/changed. So why spend extra on a rarer car when you can buy cheaper if plans are to mod.
I bought a jdm wrx in great condition to mod for purley weekend/track fun.

B16fun

iTrader: (2)

I paid the princely sum of £510 for my UK Turbo 2000 that already has a six point cage in it albeit that the engine had a knock. I'm building a replacement anyway and will be turning it into a stripped out track day toy. No point in starting with a rare road version when I'll be modding and stripping it anyway.
Andy.

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Ye but when you look at joe's RA then that frown turns upside down

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Again not quite right chap...
The Type R's are not a lightweight model and actually weigh a tiny bit more than a similar aged UK turbo.
The RA's are the lightest models, the very early WRX RA being the lightest AFAIK.

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Joes is an exceptionally well made RA (rare)

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

If your not doing any of the work yourself I'd buy one that someone else has already done, you'll save a fortune.

I'd send Alcazar a pm if I were you.

EddScott

Anyone know how to go about doing this yourself?

I imported a GTIR like 13 years ago through a company I found online. How do-able is it these days? If I said I wanted a mint WRC RA?

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Prices have shot up in japan, apparently at current prices your looking at an OTR figure of £10/12k for a really nice one, might be able to get one over for a little less, but I'd imagine your still looking at around the £8k mark.

EddScott

I've had a look round the import sites and theres a WRC RA with a landed price of £4K.

Looks OK, has a cage which doesn't bode well but has OE steering wheel which is always a good sign

https://www.tradecarview.com/used_ca...+wrx/16015501/

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Well that seems to fit the remit and not too expensive either, not the best looker with the stickers etc, but the shell should be sound, question is how many are there left and it is exactly what you said you wanted in the OP.

I'd make a serious enquiry about it and see what's actually going to be the final OTR price.

I know exactly where you're coming from though as I have a V3 STI Type R tucked away which will get restored eventually, but only close to standard as a weekend toy and something to tinker with and maybe the odd gentle track day and sprint for a bit of fun. It won't be concourse or have big power as I think both would spoil my ability to enjoy the car for what it is.

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

You mean WRX Type RA limited

Have a look on Gumtree (I know I know, not the best place to buy a car from but.....) , there's a couple of decent looking RA Limiteds on there now. Both look quite nice cars actually and priced well at under 4K each

EddScott

Had a look on Gumtree

Emailed the RA Limited. The STI RA Limited - some of those pics are very old. I remember seeing them when I was looking for my previous RA. Probably legit though.

EddScott

The guy has come back with about USD5,900 landed in the UK. From what I've read of importing once you had all the registration and other bits and bobs to get the car on the road it almost works out 1 for 1 dollars and against pounds so by that thinking I'd still be looking at £5K once it can actually turn a wheel on british soil

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Ummm, then you'll need to spend another grand having it mapped, cambelt and full fluids change, before you know it it'll be at least a £7k car with tyres, brakes etc to make it tip top, that's before any potential issues.

Which is a fair old whack and a bit of a risk too.

EddScott

Mailed the guy with the RA - sounds OK but there's a couple of nagging questions that have me leaving it be.

Although it would be cool to have a special edition, I do want to make a few changes so modding a Limited Edition car might risk lowering the value.

There are a couple of nice dark blue mica UK cars for around £2K. I'd be happy with that and just spend a few K over the next year or two giving it a few tweaks here and there.

I'm just wandering if a UK car would be a good base to mod - I know the RAs have the low ratio box (was one reason why I found my RA a bit of a pain as a daily driver) but don't they have the quick steering rack. The V6 RA I had was fitted with a VF29 turbo. My plan if I went with the UK car would be a VF35 with supporting gubbins.

My spec list for a UK would be

VF35
FMIC
Uprate/parallel fuel
filter and exhaust of some kind
ECU - not sure what to get but want aftermarket for ALS (even if it's just for show I like it )
Suspension mods - bars, lift kit, shocks (not sure which but don't want cheap rock hard coilovers)

And if I squeeze a track day in somewhere
Seats, belts and a cage

So a grand on the engine, a grand on the ECU, grand on the suspension and a grand on the interior goodies. Say 6K including the car?

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Your first problem is going to be running anti-lag on VF turbo, as they are not the strongest, you'll be better off with a TD 05 16 or 18g.

Personally if you happy with a UK car then I seriously suggest you have a word with Alcazar, you'll not find or build a better car for your budget.

EddScott

Ah yes, I had read that somewhere. Only experience I've had is a mapped UK car with the TD04 and a mapped RA with the VF29. I don't have experience of the TD05 vs VF35. I was thinking VF35 as I understood it to be less laggy than the TD05 (only from what I've read on here) I'd ditch the ALS plan if it meant the car would be more driveable.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure your prices are that realistic but it depends what you want. A grand on an engine? What sort of engine? For a forged block you will be looking at far more then a grand. If however you just want a used working block then fine.

I would forget ALS unless you are going to add a few 0's to some of your part prices. Otherwise the ALS is just going to eat parts and make it unreliable.

From what you are saying I would go for a UK turbo (late model 99-00 are best). As you are going to bin a lot of stuff then you don't need a rare import. To be honest the RA's are only light due to a lack or parts. It's the same chassis. So just strip and bin everything on a UK turbo and you will be down the the same weight. The only final difference may be an ali bonnet.

Speaking as somebody who has been messing with Impreza's for nine years and is currently building one from scratch I would always add about 25-50% to any estimated build price as you just always find bits you didn't think about.

As for the rear arches is not as easy as replacing them. The internal box sections rot and the outer arch is the last bit to go. The actual quarters are about £600 a side and that's just for the outer panel. They are only available from Subaru. Then you have a very expensive body shop bill to cut half the rear end of the car off and have it all welded, filled, sprayed etc. It's a very dear job. The sensible thing to do would be get the best one you can and treat the rust as best you can. Then just enjoy it and try not to worry.

Of course if you are OCD like me you won't be able to do that and will spend £1000's getting rid of every bit of rust.

FlatoutDave

An early jdm wrx STi RA 1994/95 would be my choice, I've just sold one and wish I'd of had time to make it mint but I haven't so I've sold it to someone who is passionate about RA's. The car was so light and agile and you just felt part of the car almost straight away. The chap I sold it to promised me he was going to bring back to its former glory and not break it which was important to me.

cookstar

iTrader: (6)

Which I certainly will.

The WRC sticker kit I've just bought on ebay is gonna look da bomb.

Just been on the phone to a pal, stock air box located already.

FlatoutDave

Fair play big fella I`m just clad it`s gone to a good home.

scooby_mad

Hi, I will be selling my MY00 v6 WRX Type RA Limited edition very soon. It is just about to turn 77k miles. It does have some rust round the arches. I've had it for around 6 or 7 years. Has prodrive alloys, sti suspension, whiteline rear ARB and droplinks, prodive alcon brakes (will have brand spanking new discs and pads - unless anyone thinks i should put standard brakes on and sell the alcons separate?). Will get a proper advert and pics up soon.

Cheers

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

This project any good to you? https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...k-project.html
Read last post

EddScott

YHPM

Thanks for the offer but that is a bit too much of a project for me to take on.