hullkoiman

hi all as some of you will know im looking at getting my first Subaru (classic) soon. but the more I look the more there seems to be a huge difference in price. ive been looking at classics with 300/350 bhp but cars in very similar condition and very similar mods are prised so different ive seen them for £2000 to £5000 so what would you guys say is closer to the actual value of a 300/350bhp classic Subaru. I know its hard to say but im just looking for a ball park figure. and had anyone got a clew why there seams to be such a huge difference in price. thanks

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

It will all depends on the quality of the parts used.

300-350 can be achieved relitively cheapely, but cheap parts possibly won't last as long. So a higher spec willk command a slight premium.

I would also say its probably to do with the condition, a non rusty classic will be worth a lot more (especially if it has already had the rust sorted properly) than one with bubbling arches etc

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

Depends on year, model, quality of mods, quality of ecu/mapper, mileage/condition, enthusiast owned or sioc member, rust on arches or potential issues to resolve once purchased.

2k is moderate level uk2000 money, 5k is V5/6 4 door sti money or v3/4 Type r.

Problem is, if you take an average 18 year old classic as an example, the difference between 300bhp and 350bhp done properly is going to be sustantial, cost and spec wise.

Even the difference between a 330bhp and proven 350bhp is going to be vast as the turbo, injectors, gearbox, clutch, engine spec is going to be different (some will beg to differ).

A 320bhp 1999 uk2000 is easily achieved with a VF28/34/35, standard injectors, standard intercooler, blue box exedy clutch, decat exhaust,fuel pump, panel filter and ecutek remap. To get it to 350 would require a decent spec turbo, bigger injectors, front mount intercooler and an engine that'll last at that power. You see the problem?

Couple of questions.
Do you know what a 300+ bhp classic feels/drives like?
Whats your budget?
Do you know what you're looking at or taking the sellers word for it?

fat-thomas

iTrader: (4)

Sioc and the other subaru ruiners are driving prices up on the unruined cars.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

If you can get a standard car and mod it yourself. I would never trust somebody to have modded something (that they will probably have thrashed) properly or to have looked after it. Also if its badly modded you end up chasing non standard problems that are harder to diagnose.

Flat4x4-again

iTrader: (1)

IMHO the best value ones are going to be the most expensive standard ones with absolutely complete service history and no rust.

I'm out of my engine modding phase now but I would still buy the best standard one possible if you are thinking of adding 50%+ to the power output.

I think you'd be either nuts or have the money to afford to be a gambler if you went for a 15 year old Impreza that had been running 300/350bhp for a few years.

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

Had to chuckle at this, you think you're going to find a 300+ bhp, 15+ year old classic thats not been thrashed? Its hard enough finding a good condition classic to start with, hence the OP's post. They are a cheap performance car, anyone over 20 can own one these days for a couple of giros and a bag of quavers so the only ones worth owning are at the top end of his budget/enthusiast owned.

Zuber

5k will get you a shed of a Type-R V3-V4 nowadays. As above,, enthusiast owned especially as these cars are getting old.

hullkoiman

thanks for all the replys everyone. no ive not ever driven a 300+bhp car but have been in plenty. so I need to be staying away from the cheaper end of the scale. I realy like the look of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-SUBAR...3D171677105247 my budget will be 4 grand or close to + or - I want something 300bhp+ with nice exterior mods with leather seats if poss but can change then at a later date. there shouldn't realy be a job on the car I couldn't tackle my self except engine work that is something I have not got a clew about. I think I know most mods I need for the car to be the bhp I want but wouldn't know what im looking at if im honest so would just bo going off what the seller told me and reciets for the car and print out if there is one. so know I don't know what to do do I buy standard and mod and chance the engine can take the mods or buy one that has already been modded that is running well? if I was to mod myself what sort of cash would I be looking at to get a car running 300+ bhp? thanks for all advice given.

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

A standard Classic at 280bhp from the factory isn't going to cost much to get an extra 20bhp I would have thought? Decat and remap would get it over 300 easily

Zuber

Op unless you know what your looking at stay away from ebay as IMO it's mostly junk on there! When you do go to buy a classic try and purchase one from the forums or put a wanted add up as the owner and car will be known.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

Yep, classics are getting on a bit now and need a bit of work or really good care and maintenance....

Rust, knackered bushes and high mileage are all things to stay away from! Even light bubbling on the rear arches means ££££££££

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

That looks enthusiast owned. Forged engine, mapped and a few good mods that as the owner says only requires a turbo upgrade to see some serious power. The only thing I'd say is to try to check under the arches as much as possible as the wider bolt/bond on ones can hide a lot underneath.
I'm sure I've seen that car on here.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

All of the above but most of all be patient and wait for the right car as mistakes are very costly, last thing you need after forking out £3/4k is a bill for a new engine.

Sweet ones do come along inside your budget but you need to be quick and sure about what it is your buying.

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if I'm reading the ad right but the car sounds like a project someones given up on.

He says "I have all the parts to make it up to 386bhp" and says it has an S1 mapped ecu, but is running a td04 etc.

Sounds like he's bought an ecu etc and all the bits he THINKS will just match up to the ecu then given up.

Better cars out there for 4k

hullkoiman

thanks for all the advice everyone. there seams to be a few nice ones about at the min but come april when ill have the cash there will be **** all about lol. but I do want one that has been owened bye an enthusiast not one that has been screwed round mc d's car park by some chav. looks like ill just keep reading and looking build up my info so time it comes to get one I know more what im looking at. also is there a big difference between the classic and bug eye engine as in reliability and potential to tune?

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Bug engines and boxes are stronger and will run up to 450bhp no problem, but Classics are where it's at.

Kwik

iTrader: (10)

Seems a bit strange but it's been on the forged engine for 30k apparently and mapped.

Classics all the way.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

That add doesn't smell right.

So he says the ECU and VF30 were once on the car and it was mapped to 386bhp but now its on a TD04 the VF30 is missing and the ecu replaced... Why? Something go pop? Is that why the engine was rebuilt? If not then did something go wrong with the setup on the current rebuilt engine forcing the change back to TD04. It doesn't make sense.

Also the car has done 130000. I know it's an old car and that is average mileage but there are going to be a lot of worn parts on the car even if the engine is fresh. He doesn't mention why the engine was rebuilt? What went wrong? I just wouldn't trust it at all. Get one that is decent to start with and mod it if you like. Buying other peoples modded cars is asking for trouble unless its a well known car from a decent tuner.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

XKR's and bolted on bits. A proper SIOC special.

rossyboy

iTrader: (8)

It's extremely unlikely you'll find one that is totally rust free on the arches and has had no repairs on them done previously.

Even the most pampered of them still rust there, bloody annoying!

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

Yep, a mix of design fault (outer seem in suspension turret allows water in as it doesn't over lap the right way and a lack of primer/paint under the seam sealer in this area. Other then never having taken it out in the wet ever and having kept it in a heated garage there is no way to avoid it to some extent. Obviously some are far worse then others.