matt12

iTrader: (2)

I was planning on keeping my newly acquired v2 sti ra pretty much standard,
However I will be looking at getting it mapped in the near future as it already had a decat system fitted and I just generally want it running as sweet as possible,

Beforehand I want to gather some choice mods that will hopefully be in keeping with the spirit of the car yet improving it aswell and preparing for any future engine work etc,

I've taken a list from Andy Forrest website but being as this is the earliest classic I have owned I'm a bit unsure what the parts actually are,

:- induction with resonator delete, where can I get a complete kit or can I do diy pipe work and what exactly does it do away with?

:-550 injectors, where can I source these from and will it be a direct replacement or do I need to buy rail converters or upgrade for parallel rails?

:- fpr- do I need 2 or 3 port, I understand I need 3 port if I upgrade the rails but does it matter either way and I can just blank off the unused port

:- is it worth upgrading the map sensor, if so what can I replace it with,

:- any reccomendations for FMIC's

I will also be upgrading the fuel pump etc, even I know how to do this lol,

Any help will be appreciated

Regards

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

I also own a V2 STI RA.

Here's my basic spec list.... I also wanted to keep it fairly standard but upgrade the bits that would aid the drive and increase power slightly.

engine.
2003 STI short motor with refreshed STI RA heads
Uprated panel filter
resonator box removed
440 injectors
rad cooling panel
full stainless and wrapped decat 2.5" system with 3" tail pipe
Manifold and up pipe wrapped
7B plugs
custom made 3 port catch can
Air con removed
Walbro 255
later map sensor (from a 99 car)

Suspension.
Standard shocks and springs
Underbody H brace
Front and rear strut braces
6 point bolt in cage
Diff brace
Rear 24mm whiteline arb
front 22mm whiteline arb
Whiteline solid rear links and uprated mounts
New OE front links
Whiteline arb slippage stops

Brakes.
4 pot front calipers with Aztec drilled and grooved discs and kevlar pads
Rear 2 pots with grooved discs and EBC blue pads
Stainless line all round
Brake stopper


Still awaiting mapping but would expect power to be somewhere around 330bhp. Plenty in a sorted RA :-)

328isport

iTrader: (6)

Hi Matt,

I can help you on the induction side as did this not long ago myself, generally an Apexi Power Intake is the best option, I bought mine from Japan (Nengun Performance) for under £100 all in including delivery. After this you have two options, fit the whole kit, which is what I did (it sounds awesome lol) or, using the resonator delete pipe from the kit and an airbox from a 2.0 non turbo impreza you can make up a nice looking half OE solution.

I've seen a few cars with a resonator delete but on the original airbox, though I'm not aware of anyone that makes them now, but as far as induction kits go the Apexi kit is not bad at all and is very good quality.

Here's a rubbish pic of my Power Intake fitted, it's the silver section you can see that is the resonator delete pipe.



Personally, if you have an exhaust fitted already, I'd sort the induction side out and then literally leave everything else and get it mapped, I'm assuming your looking at ESL, Apexi Power FC's are old hat now so your best straight forward option will be ESL.

In terms of intercoolers, this is a bit of a nightmare for us pre-facelift slanty intercooler owners! For you and what you've said about wanting to keep your car quite original, I wouldn't go front mount as means cutting your inner wing/bumper etc which alone would put me off especially if your not going for big power.

The holy grail for us really is an ARC intercooler which is a top mount and basically a direct replacement for the slanty but obviously bigger, however these are very rare.

Your stock intercooler is going to be your first limiting factor, so it's here you need to make your choice, either you go for keeping it original and be happy with 290 odd bhp (early 300's if you can find an ARC) but running very nicely at this power and sounding great. Or, go front mount and open up the possibilities of more power. However, the next thing to consider is that much over 350bhp your going to start risking your gearbox.

Ps. for anything around 300bhp you won't need 550cc injectors, yellow 440's should do fine. Other little things to consider in order to keep it running as well as possible could be having your injectors ultrasonically cleaned or a newage coilpack mod, new correctly gapped plugs and so on!

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

I didn't want to lose my original airbox and fortunately my car came with this resonator delete already fitted. I'm afraid I'm unsure of the brand but have seen one identical pop up ebay so worth searching there.

Here's mine....



Also, the standard slanty top mount will do a bit more power than most think. Although anything near 330bhp is pretty much your limit.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Seeing as you asked, My V2 STI Type-RA current spec.

Long engine built by finch motorsport.
Rebuild based on inspected EJ20 open deck block with report.

All bearing surfaces tolerances measured/checked (recorded in report)
Replacement center thrust crank (measured and inspected)
ACL Race main and big end bearings.
"new age" STI con rods.
Mahle 4032 Forged pistons 92.5 O/S
ARP 11mm head studs.
Gen Subaru MLS head gaskets.
Finch Motorsport modified oil pump.
OE water pump.
AS performance clubman baffled sump.
OBP baffled catch tank.

Cylinder Heads and valve train:
22b cylinder heads, valves reseated refaced to finch motorsport spec.
Valve guides and seals replaced.
Valve clearances set.
OE Subaru timing belt tensioner & Idlers.
Gates "Racing" kevlar timing belt.
RCM timing belt guide.

Management & Electrical:
ESL Daughter board.
Mapped by Race dynamix.
97 STI MAP sensor.
MAF Delete.
"New age" coil pack conversion.

Induction, fueling & Cooling:
TDO5 16G top entry turbo charger.
440cc Yellow injectors
Sard fuel pressure regulator & Gauge.
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump.
RCM K&N Air filter.
HDI Hybrid front mount intercooler.
Upgraded Viper performance Intercooler hoses, clamps and vacuum pipes.
Forge Header tank.
Forge VTA BOV
Samco coolant hose set.
Motul inugel expert coolant.

matt12

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks for the help so far, I will be going with an esl, with this can the car run mafless and are there any negatives to this, want to add an fpr to the list aswell as heard the old one doesn't cope with the uprated fuel pump, also can someone clarify if a 3 port will be ok even if I don't upgrade the fuel rails

328isport

iTrader: (6)

Yep ESL can run mafless, no downsides to this that I've heard of, and takes a potentially problematic part out of the equation. Saying that I don't have ESL myself so some of the other guys will better placed to answer this.


What fuel pump are you planning on using? I've had uprated pumps on both my classics with the stock FPR's and not had an issue, 3 port should do you fine also.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

As far as I'm aware there are no negatives to maf delete, its more of a case of good riddance to an often problematic component. It also blows the VTA BOV argument out of the water as there is no metered air
I haven't made any mods to the fuel rail other than the standard FPR has been replaced with an elbow. Not sure what you mean by a three port FPR, are they needed for parallel set ups?

Imo the must have mod for early v1/2 owners is the coil pack conversion. Mine made 317 before the standard caps started breaking down.

Have you registered the car at http://www.type-ra.com/subaru-forum/ ?

matt12

iTrader: (2)

Well from what I can see you can get a two port fpr and a three port so assuming three port was ideal for parallel rails but wanted to know if it mattered either way

I am registered but havnt use the site all that much to be honest,

I will look into coil pack conversions also

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

we always supply Fuelab 3port FPR's as the cost is virtually identical but leaves an option open if ever required (we simply supply a blank for the 3rd port)

edsel

iTrader: (2)

Ahhh With you now. There is a grub screw in mine so that's the third port. I thought it was just to aid orientation. You learn summat new every day eh

matt12

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for clearing that up

matt12

iTrader: (2)

Just a quick question regarding an induction kit If go down this route, with going mafless has anyone got any pics and what they used to eliminate the wiring etc, eg what size hoses and angle or shall I just keep the maf in place using the apexi power intake if I ever want to return to standard, I'm just thinking it will tidy it up a little with the wiring etc gone,

Suggestions and help appreciated

Regards

328isport

iTrader: (6)

I can't help on what hose size you'd need to drop the maf, though I could measure the diameter of a spare maf I have if needed. If you go for an Apexi though you'll have to retain the maf unplugged as the filter is designed to bolt onto the maf back plate. It'll probably be easiest to leave the maf in place as otherwise you'll need to knock something up with brackets etc.


I agree with others than an induction kit isn't needed for 300 odd bhp, but it is worth it for the noise imo, early cars especially are so quiet on the induction side which is at odds with the rest of an RA!