Just bought an '06 Hawkeye Sti from a dealer, running into problems within 24hrs..
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Just bought an '06 Hawkeye Sti from a dealer, running into problems within 24hrs..
Hi guys,
Yesterday I purchased my first Subaru! I've been really impressed with it and it seems really good.
Two things for concern. First, I'm getting a lot of knocking from the rear - yet says in the service manual that the rear shocks were overhauled 500 miles/3 weeks ago..? Could it be bushes?
Second: I've scanned my car for faults using an OBDii reader out of curiosity. I'm getting error code P2433 - Secondary Air Injection System Pressure Sensor. I've read online that this can be fixed by blanking/delete the system. By looking at the forums people said that they were getting a CEL on the dash... only now I've looked I've seen that the CEL on mine does NOT come on on start up, i'm 99% sure it's been disabled unless it does not come on when you go to ignition?
I bought this car from a small independent dealer in the midlands so I'm just curious as to what I'm covered for in terms of getting this fixed
I'm based in Worcester, Midlands, so if anyone is local and could take a look that would be awesome
Thanks
Yesterday I purchased my first Subaru! I've been really impressed with it and it seems really good.
Two things for concern. First, I'm getting a lot of knocking from the rear - yet says in the service manual that the rear shocks were overhauled 500 miles/3 weeks ago..? Could it be bushes?
Second: I've scanned my car for faults using an OBDii reader out of curiosity. I'm getting error code P2433 - Secondary Air Injection System Pressure Sensor. I've read online that this can be fixed by blanking/delete the system. By looking at the forums people said that they were getting a CEL on the dash... only now I've looked I've seen that the CEL on mine does NOT come on on start up, i'm 99% sure it's been disabled unless it does not come on when you go to ignition?
I bought this car from a small independent dealer in the midlands so I'm just curious as to what I'm covered for in terms of getting this fixed
I'm based in Worcester, Midlands, so if anyone is local and could take a look that would be awesome
Thanks
Last edited by corno; 01 May 2014 at 10:04 AM.
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That's what I want to do but I'm a bit concerned. What if they were the ones that turned the CEL off?? It all seems a bit shady..
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#9
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Not quite sure how you overhaul the shocks. Only way to stop a knocking shock is to replace it. If it knocks, it's worn. Chances are the "overhaul" they did was only a grease up somewhere and has done nowt. Take it back and let them fit good quality replacements.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 01 May 2014 at 03:37 PM.
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Not quite sure how you overhaul the shocks. Only way to stop a knocking shock is to replace it. If it knocks, it's worn. Chances are the "overhaul" they did was only a grease up somewhere and has done nowt. Take it back and let them fit good quality replacements.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
When you had a problem with the secondary air system did you encounter any performance or mpg difference?
I've spoke to the dealer and he's being really good about it He's asked me to check the rear ARB and drop links to check for play in the bushings, and then if they're okay he's offered to grease up the shocks and see if it still knocks after that. Thanks for the help guys
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KYB replacement shocks seem to be half decent if not going OEM Subaru. Also Camskill seem to do them cheap.
Also, i'm not sold on coilovers on a road car personally. To stiff for our crappy roads. Decent shocks & lowering springs all the way on my every day car!
Also, i'm not sold on coilovers on a road car personally. To stiff for our crappy roads. Decent shocks & lowering springs all the way on my every day car!
Last edited by BrownPantsRacing; 02 May 2014 at 10:37 AM.
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Packing the shocks up at this stage isn't really a solution.
The car is 7-8 years old now
Fitting a G nipple & frequent maintenance prolongs the life of the OEM
But should really be applied before trouble arises .
Tell your dealer that's not acceptable .
If you want coilovers there is a group buy on in the trader section
If you just want to replace the rear's
There was some brand new RB320 items on eBay few days back ,have a look
They are Bilstein & much improved over stock
They will bolt straight on
Your secondary is only active for 30-59 seconds on cold start
A problem you may encounter is if it's the solenoid stuck , ( with water ingress) & your planning on keeping the system - the pump will still be active & will eventually overheat ..
So my advise is go & disconnect the pump now Until the system has been overhauled & rectified .
Pump plug is at the side of the black cylinder above the battery
It will make no diff to the car ,& you already have the CEL up
( you don't want to be hit with a bill for a pump if it's not faulty
It's a 2 sec job to disconnect
Regards
The car is 7-8 years old now
Fitting a G nipple & frequent maintenance prolongs the life of the OEM
But should really be applied before trouble arises .
Tell your dealer that's not acceptable .
If you want coilovers there is a group buy on in the trader section
If you just want to replace the rear's
There was some brand new RB320 items on eBay few days back ,have a look
They are Bilstein & much improved over stock
They will bolt straight on
Your secondary is only active for 30-59 seconds on cold start
A problem you may encounter is if it's the solenoid stuck , ( with water ingress) & your planning on keeping the system - the pump will still be active & will eventually overheat ..
So my advise is go & disconnect the pump now Until the system has been overhauled & rectified .
Pump plug is at the side of the black cylinder above the battery
It will make no diff to the car ,& you already have the CEL up
( you don't want to be hit with a bill for a pump if it's not faulty
It's a 2 sec job to disconnect
Regards
#17
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Packing the shocks up at this stage isn't really a solution.
The car is 7-8 years old now
Fitting a G nipple & frequent maintenance prolongs the life of the OEM
But should really be applied before trouble arises .
Tell your dealer that's not acceptable .
If you want coilovers there is a group buy on in the trader section
If you just want to replace the rear's
There was some brand new RB320 items on eBay few days back ,have a look
They are Bilstein & much improved over stock
They will bolt straight on
Your secondary is only active for 30-59 seconds on cold start
A problem you may encounter is if it's the solenoid stuck , ( with water ingress) & your planning on keeping the system - the pump will still be active & will eventually overheat ..
So my advise is go & disconnect the pump now Until the system has been overhauled & rectified .
Pump plug is at the side of the black cylinder above the battery
It will make no diff to the car ,& you already have the CEL up
( you don't want to be hit with a bill for a pump if it's not faulty
It's a 2 sec job to disconnect
Regards
The car is 7-8 years old now
Fitting a G nipple & frequent maintenance prolongs the life of the OEM
But should really be applied before trouble arises .
Tell your dealer that's not acceptable .
If you want coilovers there is a group buy on in the trader section
If you just want to replace the rear's
There was some brand new RB320 items on eBay few days back ,have a look
They are Bilstein & much improved over stock
They will bolt straight on
Your secondary is only active for 30-59 seconds on cold start
A problem you may encounter is if it's the solenoid stuck , ( with water ingress) & your planning on keeping the system - the pump will still be active & will eventually overheat ..
So my advise is go & disconnect the pump now Until the system has been overhauled & rectified .
Pump plug is at the side of the black cylinder above the battery
It will make no diff to the car ,& you already have the CEL up
( you don't want to be hit with a bill for a pump if it's not faulty
It's a 2 sec job to disconnect
Regards
I have no idea when it comes to suspension, but can I only replace the rear shocks and NOT the fronts or is that going to affect ride/handling/geometry etc?
*and by replace I mean upgrade
Last edited by corno; 02 May 2014 at 10:58 AM.
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Any car that has had its CEL light deliberately disabled either by the dealer or by its previous owner would remove any confidence that i had with that car..it's there for a good reason. As mentioned before this is an expensive fix if you stick with the original system and the previous owner obviously realised that and got shut. Even to do the delete properly is a pain as access to the nearside flange that runs around the back of the engine is difficult to say the least. Replacing the shockers is just general wear and tear and if you have a warranty with the car the dealer should replace them for you. Personally i would give them the whole thing back and ask for a refund - there are plenty of sound examples out there to be had.
#20
Pal of mine bought a Blob STi and the CEL had been taped over behind the dash - this one was done not by the previous owner who was not aware but by the independant UK dealer he bought it from - OBDII Scan showed a load of errors - car got fixed and is good but very, very dodgy practise blanking off the CEL.
My Hawk WRX rear Suspension has started knocking so will be swapping out the rear shocks soon - can't be bothered with fitting grease nipples etc. and will probably sell the car on before it comes back again.
Defo take it back to the dealer and get him to sort these issues and re-test and re-OBDII check before taking it back from him - you have loads of rights as a buyer, use them is needed.
Good luck
My Hawk WRX rear Suspension has started knocking so will be swapping out the rear shocks soon - can't be bothered with fitting grease nipples etc. and will probably sell the car on before it comes back again.
Defo take it back to the dealer and get him to sort these issues and re-test and re-OBDII check before taking it back from him - you have loads of rights as a buyer, use them is needed.
Good luck
#21
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Not quite sure how you overhaul the shocks. Only way to stop a knocking shock is to replace it. If it knocks, it's worn. Chances are the "overhaul" they did was only a grease up somewhere and has done nowt. Take it back and let them fit good quality replacements.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
The bigger concern is ANY fault with the secondary air system. It is very difficult even using the codes to find what part of the system is at fault. The plastic pump is £700 and the valves are £300 ish each so it's not cheap to fix.
Both these faults are common Hawk problems. I have had to fix both of these on mine since I have owned it. Don't worry too much, but certainly ask the dealer to sort it.
Last edited by Gambit; 02 May 2014 at 01:17 PM.
#23
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yeh you have bought a car in good faith from a dealer its there problem to make sure the car is fit for sale.
demand them replaced not greased and the fault with the cel and air pump sorted properly or drop it back to them and demand your money back from them.
Dont leave it too long or you will end up being stuck with the issues to deal with yourself.
Jay
demand them replaced not greased and the fault with the cel and air pump sorted properly or drop it back to them and demand your money back from them.
Dont leave it too long or you will end up being stuck with the issues to deal with yourself.
Jay
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Won't 'name and shame' the dealer as they might have genuinely not known about this and tbf they are being helpful so far
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I've got my own OBDII reader but I checked my friends too. Which part of Worcs are you from? Go to any local meets?
#29
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That's what they've offered so I'm going to arrange a date and time to sort it, they've been really good and helpful with it so I'm a happy customer just a bit annoyed the car isn't 100%
I've got my own OBDII reader but I checked my friends too. Which part of Worcs are you from? Go to any local meets?
I've got my own OBDII reader but I checked my friends too. Which part of Worcs are you from? Go to any local meets?
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Which meet was that? I only really go to TwoTwenty and a few quiet ones with my mates - don't suppose you're apart of West mids imprezas? Can't find anything to do with them recently! Yeah defo more than welcome to scan your car as long as it has an OBDII port